Those bolts are titanium so if they break good luck drilling them. To weld to them you need a TIG. Maybe Ford used them k owing they would break if we tried to remove them

 

In all my reading prepping for my delete, I never saw anybody say they were titanium. Ever.

If they were titanium they would be nearly as strong as a grade 8, so less likely to break.

I bought two new ones from from Ford to replace the ones in mine even though mine didn't break. They weren't light like titanium, and they didn't have the cost I would assume titanium bolts would from Ford.

Where did you hear that?

 

thank you for the tip. I'll be doing this soon, Do you have any good information on who and what kit's to look at buying? There isn't a lot of info online that I can find about who's products last and who to stay away from, much appreciated -Jim

 

I used the acetone/atf with some pb blaster as well and it worked perfectly. I used a long extension with a wobble instead of a u joint. One thing I would add is to use a 1/4 ratchet and extension. It will be much harder to break the bolt using it. If you cant free it with a moderate amount of pressure. Spray it down again and try again the next day. I think a lot of the breaking of bolts is guys being impatient and going at it too hard. I ended up spraying and coming back to mine for about a week before it gave way. I used some good high temp anti-seize when I put the block off plate back in. As far as which block off plate to use, I think any of the site sponsors plates would be fine. I'm not sure who makes the best full removal kit as I kept my cooler on.

 

Yeah I hear you, have you ever heard of Kroil? we use it on the boats a lot, its claim to fame is it will defy gravity and go up threads... its better then the o'le PB lol so I will definitely Be using it and hope it works fast lol, and thanks for the tip on the 1/4'' wrench good idea

 

Stuff is magic. It is better than anything I've used I work on a drill ship and it's all I will use PB and WD40 don't hold a candle to it. I bought some on Amazon for the house.

 

Honestly if I had it to do all over again I would not have gone through all that just to do block off plates. I would have just tuned it out and left it like it is. It wont hurt anything if you never plan to hook it back up. Now that my turbo went out I am replacing the exhaust manifold. I tried to weld to the broken stud not knowing it was titanium then it broke off deeper. Then I got a full carbine drill bit and screwed up trying to drill it out.

In short if you are tuning out EGR it wont gain anything to do the plates except remove junk from the engine bay.

 

I cant post a link as a rookie but google ProMax Nino 200 and you see everything you need to and dont want to see! LOL

Here is where is says they are titanium. A magnet wont stick to them either. I originally thought it was from the heat cycles on a steel bolt. Nope. Titanium basically welds its self to the cast iron since they are different metals. A good friend in the motorcycle industry said titanium bolts where banned from racing years ago due to breakage.

Titanium is very brittle and doesnt take the heat well from what in been told. Its hard but brittle. Drills even worse.

 

Here is where is says they are titanium. A magnet wont stick to them either. I originally thought it was from the heat cycles on a steel bolt. Nope. Titanium basically welds its self to the cast iron since they are different metals. A good friend in the motorcycle industry said titanium bolts where banned from racing years ago due to breakage.

Titanium is very brittle and doesnt take the heat well from what in been told. Its hard but brittle. Drills even worse.

You're right. A magnet won't stick to them. What a strange thing for Ford to do.

Go throw those in the trash can and get you two 6.0x1.00x30mm grade 8 steel bolts add anti-seize and never worry about it again.

With my luck, if I were to go to replace them, they'd break this time. So since the truck is deleted, and the EGR cooler is long gone, I'm just going to leave them in. They should never have to come out again.

 

Penetrating oil is mostly marketing and hype. WD-40 works as good or better than anything on the market. The best method for loosening stuck bolts is heat and vibration or tapping with a hammer.

 

Is it better to spray the egr bolts every day when I get home from work with pb blaster for a weekday or just a few days?

 

IMO, you can't do it too much.

 

Would giving the bolts a smack with a hammer and a extension of some sort hurt after they are sprayed? My parts get here Tuesday and Thursday or Friday they should be going on.

another side question... if the bolts arent ready to come out can I drive the truck with the non-DPF pipe on and the tuner until the bolts for the egr do come out??

 

You don't have to do anything with the egr if you don't want to. It will be disabled in the tune.
Hitting those bolts won't hurt. May help

 

I sprayed mine every day for the three days prior in removal with regular pb blaster. 2011 with 100k and they came right out no problem

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What is the threaded hole in the center of the block plate for on a no limit delete kit?

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What is the threaded hole in the center of the block plate for on a no limit delete kit?

Pyrometer, temp sensor, whatever this thing's called.

 

Driving around to full operating temp, then park and immediately trying to get them out will help too. Obviously shut it off and don't get burned.

I've read on the interweb about EGR valves freezing/seizing up and throwing flow codes when people have returned them to stock without utilizing block offs.

And if you do break a bolt, there is centering tool available to stay lined up to drill it out.

 

Yes...thats why I posted about them

 

My method has worked for about 8-10 trucks, spray with some stuff by castle called thrust...

spray a day before let it soak, while getting ready to do job spray again, take an small electric impact and just hit the bolts again, then take a 3/8 air impact and hit it off an on, bolts will come right out just about.