You can buy an eBay EBPV delete but i wouldn't buy a turbo wheel. These wheels spin in excess of 25,000 RPM and its not worth buying a cheapo.

This is a kit that Rudy's sells https://www.ebay.com/itm/EBPV-Delet...53?hash=item5d844619c1:g:9j0AAOSwi1lcB-11:sc:ShippingMethodStandard!17569!US!-1

then, on getting a wheel. Just buy a wheel from Riff Raff,KC Turbos or wicked wheel

 

Does the wheel have to be replaced when doing the delete? If not then could I skip replacing the wheel and just use the other parts?

 

Thank you for the link though! This helps me a lot, been trying to find a good kit to do this but was hesitant due to lack of reviews and knowledge. I'm thinking about going with the kit from Rudys.

 

The wheel is a performance part. It will help spool as well as usually higher boost. Not all wheels are created equal. They have different amounts of blade, 4 big blades, 7 small blades what ever, they all have a performance increase.

 

Ok, but my question is does it have to be replaced when doing the ebpv delete? If not I don't mind waiting to replace it with a good one later on.

 

If you're doing the work yourself, while you're already in there, do the wheel and the 360 degree bearing along with the EBPV delete pedestal. I personally would not buy a part from Ebay that's made of any type of metal and put it in one of our trucks, especially anything turbo related.
JARED

 

The wheel doesn't need to be touched period. Like Jarred said, you should do a 360 bearing and rebuild while doing the wheel and EBPV parts but its not required. Once again i'd say don't buy an ebay wheel but the EBPV and up pipes are fine

 

Ok thank you, that's what I was wondering. Yeah I'm not going to use an eBay turbo wheel, I'll replace that with one from riffraff later. I know it would be better to just do it all right now but that's just not the case for me right now and I'll address the wheel and bearing later on.

 

What do you mean the truck feels choked up?

I would not waste a penny on ebpv delete it really wont do anything. Worse case you can pull it off and clean it. tons of helpful youtube videos and only takes 10 minutes.

An intake/exhaust/tuner would be a huge performance boost for 99% of owners.

The wicked wheel 2 from riffraff could be helpful but at most you'll see 2-3 psi more boost and barley noticeable faster spool and I mean barley.

 

If you have a 6sp a wheel is strong improvement, i strongly disagree that you wont notice.

Ah I see. I misunderstood and thought she was talking about the little exhaust sensor near the water pump its some sort of exhaust back pressure sensor some people delete hahahaha.

Now to be clear. I did delete exhaust back pressure valve on the turbo and install the high flow outlet and wicked wheel 2 and it was not much of a difference at all. 2-3psi at most more and barley if any reduced spool time whether tuned or on stock programming. it did what it said it would though.

Eliminated turbo surge for my heavier towing and gave me few more boost psi etc.

Sorry I misread and was really confused why I thought she was deleting the little exhaust sensor on the front for an oil leak on the rear :doh: it must be more apparent with the increased control of the 6spd vs the auto I have etc.

 

If you have a 6sp a wheel is strong improvement, i strongly disagree that you wont notice.

 

sall good.

 

Why not just lock the ebpv flap in the open position? seems like a much easier fix.

 

What part of the county do you live in? I was taking to a trusted diesel shop here yesterday on doing that on mine. He told me that if one lives up north here , I do MT, that a person needs to leave them stock so the truck will warm up better as they can tend to not warm up right. Just something to consider.

I see -30 in winters pretty often. Absolutely no warm
Up time improvement. You just fight the valve closing till it’s warmed up enough. Also the ebpv leaks and is $$$ and pita to rebuild vs just deleting it.

If you need the ebpv to warm up your truck isn’t running right.

Good synthetic oil, properly running glow plug system, black heater is all you need.

 

What part of the county do you live in? I was taking to a trusted diesel shop here yesterday on doing that on mine. He told me that if one lives up north here , I do MT, that a person needs to leave them stock so the truck will warm up better as they can tend to not warm up right. Just something to consider.

 

The reason for the EBPV is the warm up the truck correct. You can delete them or leave them stock, i deleted mine here in PA because i either plug it in or have time to let it warm up. They tend to stick and cause a loss of power aswell as being an oil leak spot when they fail. Personally just get rid of it, mine failed around 170,xxx. leaked oil every where and stuck closed.

 

I work most evenings til 8 if not after so my free time to work on my truck is very limited. I took my truck to a very large and admittedly extremely reputable shop for a P1211. They told me i needed injector o rings. Alright, I believe you but i want to verify because i just did injectors and i guess i may have snagged one but, i don't know. Dead head the HPOP and I'm at 2100 PSI... no oil in fuel, no fuel in oil. ALWAYS, double check.

My friends truck (02) wouldn't get inspected because he had a straight pipe. Took it to the next guy and bam, not an issue...

 

From my experience delete the pedestal, replace the up pipes, rebuild the turbo, install a billet compressor wheel, all at the same time. I am kicking myself in the butt for not rebuilding my turbo, and now it's blow a seal. So now I have to pull the turbo for the 3rd time:crying: