[elnonio]

7 years on my unit, no complaints.

https://www.etrailer.com/Anti~Sway_Bars/Roadmaster/rm-rbk16-rssb.html

 

[Biodsl]

PMF has a very nice kit with choice of shocks. I went with the Fox and have been very happy.

 

[sixgear]

Skyjacker 9299 Silver Dual Stabilizer Kit

suggest installing poly sway bar frame bushings also. makes a big difference.

 

[USMChuck]

Skyjacker 9299 Silver Dual Stabilizer Kit

suggest installing poly sway bar frame bushings also. makes a big difference.

Is this one easy to install yourself?

 

[ChrisSki]

I appreciate everyone's input from the community. It's nice to have help from those on the forum. It's surprising all the bad info out there on the internet, such as reseller's websites selling kits that they say will fit your vehicle, but you go to the manufacture's website to find out that website either does not list your truck or the part number is not actually listed on the manufacturer's website. So maybe had I ordered the dual kit for my non-lifted truck, maybe it would have fit, maybe it wouldn't have fit, but I did not feel lucky spending my money to find out.

There's a few places I would trust to call to get a good answer to my question, like BPD, BD Diesel, and Strictly Diesel. Perhaps had I called them and they had the parts for sale, I would have got a dual kit.

I ended up going with the Bilstein 5100, mostly to because it had some good reviews, and I already have the Bilstein 5100 shocks, so why not match?

I do wonder what would cause this stabilizer to go bad every two years.

For the Skyjacker 9299 Silver Dual Stabilizer Kit , seems it wil fit the 2005 excursion, but not the 2005 F-250. This may fit: 2005 - 2014 Ford Super Duty Dual Steering Stabilizer Part # 7254 / 9254 , but I did not seeing anything on the manufacturer's website about needing a lift or not. Amazon lists the same part as requiring a 2" to 4" lift.

 

[USMChuck]

Sorry to change subject, but anyone have issues with their backup camera? Mine worked for a few months went fuzzy and now it's out. Fuse is good can't seem to get to the camera itself. Any advice? Would be appreciated

 

[sixgear]

Is this one easy to install yourself?

yes. just have to adjust correctly so nothing hits. additionally the oem bracket needs to be cut at a certain area per instructions. my truck is 01 F250, so check part number for your ride on their website.

 

[USMChuck]

yes. just have to adjust correctly so nothing hits. additionally the oem bracket needs to be cut at a certain area per instructions. my truck is 01 F250, so check part number for your ride on their website.

Copy that. Thanks.

 

[Superduty Steve]

Are there any clearance issues with running dual stabilizers on a stock-height truck, with stock wheels/tires?

No not on my 05 F350 I only have the front leveling kit on my truck. Ive got the dual Rancho on it. They work fine

 

[ZMANN]

I do wonder what would cause this stabilizer to go bad every two years.

my first thoughts

Cheap shocks.

rock /rust or other damage to the piston rod and it wipes out the seals.

binding

some shocks can not tolerate being over extended or bottomed out.

a high cycle vibration that heats up the dampener.

 

[ChrisSki]

I thought I was done but when I pulled the steering stabilizer, the new Bilsteen does not match the old Ranchero. I can only guess the shop who did the work or a prior owner removed the OEM bracket to install a different steering stabilizer.

This is where the steering stabilizer would hook to the rod, and to get the Bilsteen in, this would need to come out. Even if I pulled it, the Bilstein looks to long. I tried to get it out, but a 24 MM wrench that fits it, started to strip it. So, if I go further with it, I’d need to go from up top and hopefully break it loose with a 24 mm deep Impact socket.

So, I think I’m just going to reorder the Ranchero that was in there before.

Supposed to be a 15 minute job.

 

[ZMANN]

not sure why you need a 3/4 wrench to get out a taper fit ?
am i missing something?

put a nut on the threads and beat that out

 

[ZMANN]

that Rancho looks like a generic or even licensed unit ( AKA not a real Rancho

mine is a metallic silver painted body unit

 

[ChrisSki]

that Rancho looks like a generic or even licensed unit ( AKA not a real Rancho

mine is a metallic silver painted body unit

Could be a counterfeit. When I look in the Rancho website for the 5413, the stabilizer comes with a boot, which this does not have. Also, the bolt On the rancho website, which I think is the taper fit you talk about, should be Easy to push out or at least tap out with a hammer. THis one Is stuck on solid and is not coming out, seems to be threaded onto the rod. I can’t push it out, tapping with a hammer doesn’t budge it, and When I tried rotaiting it with the wrench, the bolt started to strip.

 

[G8orFord]

It's a taper fit and they are often VERY tight. Tapping ain't gonna cut it. If you can get a 4lb sledge to hold against one side and bang it on the other side with a 2lb, that's probably the easiest way to get it broken loose.

Heat also works.

 

[007matman]

I had to remove my Bilstein to replace the drag link.. pro-tip: if your drag link is older just replace it now.. it's a huge pita to get it out again.

I had to beat it out with a sledge and heat. I was able to grind it down after I got it out and get the nut back on.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

 

[ChrisSki]

I admit I'd like to tighten up the steering some, but I want to either spend a good amount of time figuring out what would fix it, or bring it to a shop for that.

 

[ChrisSki]

View attachment 767889
What do you think the best way to get this taper fitting out is? I know @G8orFord mentioned a 4 LBS hammer. The fitting is quite a bit worst for wear than the pic shows. The bottom of the fitting, the right side is mushroomed from hitting it with a hammer, so I just can't reuse.

I've tried regular hammer, a regular hammer with heat, a two prong extractor, and tried a two prong extractor with heat and then followed it CRC freeze spray, but no luck. With my luck, if I hit the taper fitting with a 4 LBS hammer, I'll pop the rod it is attached to out of each side and the taper fitting would still be in there. Maybe the four pound hammer and the 12 inches of room I can swing it will not be a problem at all. Never done this.

 

[mbsfield18]

View attachment 767889
What do you think the best way to get this taper fitting out is? I know @G8orFord mentioned a 4 LBS hammer. The fitting is quite a bit worst for wear than the pic shows. The bottom of the fitting, the right side is mushroomed from hitting it with a hammer, so I just can't reuse.

I've tried regular hammer, a regular hammer with heat, a two prong extractor, and tried a two prong extractor with heat and then followed it CRC freeze spray, but no luck. With my luck, if I hit the taper fitting with a 4 LBS hammer, I'll pop the rod it is attached to out of each side and the taper fitting would still be in there. Maybe the four pound hammer and the 12 inches of room I can swing it will not be a problem at all. Never done this.

Seems like if you knock the rod out, then you could use some sort of press tool to get the fitting out, if you can rig it to fit.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[ChrisSki]

Seems like if you knock the rod out, then you could use some sort of press tool to get the fitting out, if you can rig it to fit.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Do you think this may work? I tried a two prong gear extractor, but only having two prongs wouldn't balance and would tilt as I tightened it. I've used these to extract gears that are on too tight to be pulled off, but nothing like a tapered fitting. The two prong adapter I used put quite a bit of force on before it started to tilt.