This might have been covered here on PS.org, but I was unable to find a similar situation. Sorry for the lengthy post, but hopefully this might shed some light on others that have experiences similar issues.
As with all alternator threads the question arises; “where was the alternator purchased?” The usual answer is at the local auto parts store with the normal response of “that’s your problem.”
So with that in mind a DC Power 185 was purchased, but therein lies the problem/question, but I digress.
I had been successful in running an O’riley alternator even with its subpar 110 amp rating for a little over a year. However, when the voltage on my Edge Insight displayed 10 – 12 volts and with the idiot light illuminated I thought to myself really? I just installed this piece of junk. At first the low voltage was intermittent until it was malfunctioning all the time. I had the alternator tested and I was told the alternator was good. Huh? How could this be?
Then the “manager” told me he had heard and read on PS.org there was something amiss within the dash area that caused alternators to malfunction. In those threads he had read to cut one of the wires coming from the back of the alternator. Of course during my search for this topic I was unable to find any discussion regarding the three wires that plug into the back of the alternator relating to the death of an alternator.:dunno:
So getting back to the purchase of the DC Power. I purchased a DC Power 185 because the cheap Chinese alternators were not cutting it and it ran great for less than two weeks. I was getting 14.2 volts at the battery. I ran #2 ga cable from the alternator to the passenger battery and the same for the crossover cable to the driver’s side battery. Then one day I encountered the same problem as before, low voltage and an illuminated idiot light. What in the HELL?!
I called and asked Ed at FICMrepair.com (where I bought the alternator) and asked why did this happen? He asked what the battery voltage was. I though heck the batteries were just a few months over a year old why would they be bad. I put on a VOM and what’d ya know they were reading 12 volts.
I was told the regulator on the alternator was probably fried because the alternator was working overtime charging battery(s) that were DOA to begin with. When the battery(s) would not take the charge the alternator overworked itself until it self-destructed. Oh great I just threw $300 down the drain:tard:. Of course I was told this was probably not the case and DC power might warranty the problem
hnoes:. Since this discussion with ED new batteries were purchased and installed. The DC power alternator was removed and sent back to DC Power. I am still waiting on a call from them.
I re-installed the old O’riley’s alternator since it was good according to the person operating the testing equipment. With new batteries this is what happens; the voltage shows low 10-11 volts until after a minute then the voltage jumps up to 13.8 before settling in at around 13.4-13.6v. So I am think ok, maybe it was the batteries, but oh no! Within a few minutes the voltage drops back down below 12v and back to the original problem. Ugh!
So with this all in mind my questions:
1. What do the three wires from the back of the alternator do and where do they go?
2. Is there a gremlin that lives up underneath the dash that mysteriously damages alternators and the cure is to simply cut a wire?
3. Why is my voltage intermittent with the cheapie alternator?
4. Why would a well revered DC Power self-destruct when millions of other cars suffer from dead batteries resulting in only replacing the batteries and their alternators are fine?
5. Silly idea, but could the belt be slipping? It’s brand new though.
6. Why does it take a minute before the alternator kicks in to start charging? It did it with the cheap one and with the DC Power.
Thanks in advance to your replies.
As with all alternator threads the question arises; “where was the alternator purchased?” The usual answer is at the local auto parts store with the normal response of “that’s your problem.”
So with that in mind a DC Power 185 was purchased, but therein lies the problem/question, but I digress.
I had been successful in running an O’riley alternator even with its subpar 110 amp rating for a little over a year. However, when the voltage on my Edge Insight displayed 10 – 12 volts and with the idiot light illuminated I thought to myself really? I just installed this piece of junk. At first the low voltage was intermittent until it was malfunctioning all the time. I had the alternator tested and I was told the alternator was good. Huh? How could this be?
Then the “manager” told me he had heard and read on PS.org there was something amiss within the dash area that caused alternators to malfunction. In those threads he had read to cut one of the wires coming from the back of the alternator. Of course during my search for this topic I was unable to find any discussion regarding the three wires that plug into the back of the alternator relating to the death of an alternator.:dunno:
So getting back to the purchase of the DC Power. I purchased a DC Power 185 because the cheap Chinese alternators were not cutting it and it ran great for less than two weeks. I was getting 14.2 volts at the battery. I ran #2 ga cable from the alternator to the passenger battery and the same for the crossover cable to the driver’s side battery. Then one day I encountered the same problem as before, low voltage and an illuminated idiot light. What in the HELL?!
I called and asked Ed at FICMrepair.com (where I bought the alternator) and asked why did this happen? He asked what the battery voltage was. I though heck the batteries were just a few months over a year old why would they be bad. I put on a VOM and what’d ya know they were reading 12 volts.
I was told the regulator on the alternator was probably fried because the alternator was working overtime charging battery(s) that were DOA to begin with. When the battery(s) would not take the charge the alternator overworked itself until it self-destructed. Oh great I just threw $300 down the drain:tard:. Of course I was told this was probably not the case and DC power might warranty the problem
hnoes:. Since this discussion with ED new batteries were purchased and installed. The DC power alternator was removed and sent back to DC Power. I am still waiting on a call from them.I re-installed the old O’riley’s alternator since it was good according to the person operating the testing equipment. With new batteries this is what happens; the voltage shows low 10-11 volts until after a minute then the voltage jumps up to 13.8 before settling in at around 13.4-13.6v. So I am think ok, maybe it was the batteries, but oh no! Within a few minutes the voltage drops back down below 12v and back to the original problem. Ugh!
So with this all in mind my questions:
1. What do the three wires from the back of the alternator do and where do they go?
2. Is there a gremlin that lives up underneath the dash that mysteriously damages alternators and the cure is to simply cut a wire?
3. Why is my voltage intermittent with the cheapie alternator?
4. Why would a well revered DC Power self-destruct when millions of other cars suffer from dead batteries resulting in only replacing the batteries and their alternators are fine?
5. Silly idea, but could the belt be slipping? It’s brand new though.
6. Why does it take a minute before the alternator kicks in to start charging? It did it with the cheap one and with the DC Power.
Thanks in advance to your replies.
