Hi All, Did I remember reading that people were also modding there CCV system on the 6.7's after deleting and tuning?
Or is it really necessary?
Thanks for the Info!!
Or is it really necessary?
Thanks for the Info!!
lobe50
I've seen a few guys on here that have done it. Ive been considering it myself. I know No Limit Fabrication makes a pretty nice kit. There is a thread on here some where that has some info on it.
Right or wrong, there seem to be a lot less people doing this. Not really as popular as was on the 7.3s.
Might not be as popular as doing it on the older model trucks but the fact is still there that you will have a lot of oily residue re-entering the intake tract starting pre turbo and gumming up the intercooler piping and intercooler there after. Its a good mod to have and was one of the first I did. I ordered the No Limit CCV Delete at the same time I did the No Limit EGR delete. The 6.7's put out a lot of crank pressure so its safest to just let it vent to atmosphere and not to have a catch can.
I pulled my turbo at 7500 miles and the ammount of oil in the turbo and CAC pipe was ridiculous, I did the CCV delete at the same time and the kits are really put together nice. For me it was more about cleaning up the engine bay as well as helping the engine out, that big ugly black box is no longer on my valve cover and it looks so much nicer. Just need to get rid of the ugly fuel filter now.
Every aftermarket turbo kit will make you install the CCV delete anyways cause there piping wont incorporate the hole to plumb it into the intake OEM style. Not to hard, couple bolts in tight spots, easily done in an afternoon.
I've been looking at them for a while and the only two I've seen are MPD and No Limit. I've seen the MPD kits for about $200 and No Limits for $250. They look about the same. But like everyone else said.... Just seems like a lot of money for a small amount of components
Yah probably is a bit overpriced for what you get but when you consider the man hours spent designing and field testing then the price isn't so bad, 10 people buy a ccv delete and that only covers a solid day of labor and overhead.
It makes sense that routing the oil mist from ventilation back into the intake tract is not a good thing for the motor/turbo.
I have been talking to Steve at Absolute Performance about his kit he designed. It is baffled and vents only air pressure out to his polished vent canister. He states the oil is baffled and redirected back into the valve train. This way there is no dirty catch can full of oil to maintain/empty. I really like this idea ;-)
I have been talking to Steve at Absolute Performance about his kit he designed. It is baffled and vents only air pressure out to his polished vent canister. He states the oil is baffled and redirected back into the valve train. This way there is no dirty catch can full of oil to maintain/empty. I really like this idea ;-)
So my question is if left stock the way ford designed the motor, what happens to the residual oil that builds up over time? It feeds back through the motor? Don't they account for this somehow or what? Or is the motor supposed to handle this? (Serious question as I know you guys know more about this than I do)
Ford doesn't find any issues with feeding the oil through your Turbo and gumming it up. Worst case they will sell you a turbo out of warranty if it does any damage and charge you to clean out all your piping. They don't care cause it's keeping the EPA off their backs for saving the environment.
Heavy_GD...yeah his web site is not his specialty. I called him and he was very helpful and knowledgeable . You can see a pic on his facebook page and I believe on his thread in the Vendor section. Real nice work for sure. He makes a sweet Intake also!! Real nice price for polished right now. Send him a PM
Reviving the dead thread for the sake of anyone new to the 6.7 ...
TL;DR: I had other oil leak/ smell issues that got fixed in the process of rerouting the CCV.
Write up is sectioned off at the end.
Backstory is, I bought a 2011(first half) used F-250, bone stock. A week later I got the P0401, and rectified it with a full delete.
The first real drive I did with it was from the Canadian border (about 3 hours north of Seattle) down to Texas. About the time we hit Idaho, I noticed that there was a strong smell of oil coming in the cab. Being new to diesel trucks, I wasn't sure if it was normal or not, so I got out and inspected everything. The most noticable oil spot was on the drain plug(of the "industry changing" composite oil pan). I changed that out for the metal pan as soon as we got to the farm in Texas.
I noticed that it solved most of the smell issue, so I didn't worry anymore.
When I got back to Washington and parked in my driveway, I began to notice a small oil spot under the front axle. Researched it, found oil in the valley, changed the Turbo oil inlet and cooler lines.
Problem solved for a little bit.
I deployed for 6 months and came back to a near perfect outline in the shape of my front axle in my driveway(wife is a space cadet and never noticed).
It was only a quart low, and any time I would fill it, it would always drain down to 1 quart low. Researched it, found out it was the Vacuum pump gasket. Swapped it out and didn't have any noticable oil loss for the next 4 months.
About 2 weeks ago, the conditions were perfect and all of a sudden the oil smell was back in the cabin. I did a thorough inspection and noticed that there were two streaks of oil coming down the driver's side of the engine.
Researched it, and the only thing it could be was the CCV. Found the bare bones kit from Rudy's diesel in Amazon for about $140.
I got in in the mail today and went to work.
Sorry for the long preface, but here is the write up and some insight on the reroute.
∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆ Write up ∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆
This mod is real easy. If you can safely rotate your tires, you can do this in about 2 hours.
I tried to use the Chilton manual, but it said take it apart... No ****.
You'll need an 11 or 12mm for the charge pipe clamp.
You only need to take off the side that hooks to the intercooler.
Pull the fuel lines from the filter and tuck them out of the way.
You need a 7mm to loosen the clamp on the filter. Pull it out and set it aside.
Disconnect the ****ty corrugated "piping" from the CCV box and the intake.
(Just twist and pull until it comes off)
You have to take out the two bolts holding the fuel lines/ fuel to injector lines. These require an 8mm.
Now the only thing left( at least for an early 2011 6.7) is to take out the box.
There are three 8mm bolts on the outboard side, one or two 8mm bolts on the inboard side, and maybe a 10 mm on the inboard side as well.
Once you get all of the bolts off, you'll be able to just wiggle the box out of the engine bay.
When the box was out, I inspected the ports. The outlet was pretty clean, nothing if interest. The inlet though... The entire port was filled with sludged oil that never had any chance if getting out due to the poor design of how the vent portion of the box didn't actually meet up with the interior portion of the port.
Once I cleaned that out, it was ready for the install.
For the install, it is 3 fasteners using an Allen head (not sure on the size, 3rd biggest in my Craftsman set).
The big plug goes on the big hole. One fastener.
The 90°elbow goes in the metal piece with 2 holes. Tighten it as much as you can without it interfering with the bolts holes.
Connect the hose and tighten the hose clamp, then run the hose however works for you.
Install the 2 fasteners to secure your new CCV reroute.
Install the cap on hole where the old CCV hose connected to the intake.
Put it all back together in reverse order and you're done!
in my case, the entire box was disposable, with no filter inside. I found the solution to 3 different issues with this.
One- the back of the box had blown out around where the two plastic pieces are joined. This was causing the oil smell in the cabin.
Two- both of the streaks of oil lined up perfectly with the inlet and outlet port of the box.
Three- the intermittent"valve chatter" noise is gone. (Maybe not a full fix yet, but my thought is that since the hole was fairly large and I'm paranoid about the sounds the engine makes, I was hearing some of the exhaust stroke resonate through the hole)
I would definitely recommend a longer hose that exits somewhere near the exhaust(for those in states that are hard on emissions)
If there is any oil coming out and condensing, it is negligible.
**** what the fat bald dude on YouTube says about it destroying your engine. He's the Alex Jones of diesel videos.
I noticed my EGT was between 50-90° lower.
The disposable box or the replacement filter is about half the cost of the kit, so it's not really an absurd price for the longevity aspect.
Feel free to PM me with any questions about this or any of the other fixes mentioned in the novel above!
TL;DR: I had other oil leak/ smell issues that got fixed in the process of rerouting the CCV.
Write up is sectioned off at the end.
Backstory is, I bought a 2011(first half) used F-250, bone stock. A week later I got the P0401, and rectified it with a full delete.
The first real drive I did with it was from the Canadian border (about 3 hours north of Seattle) down to Texas. About the time we hit Idaho, I noticed that there was a strong smell of oil coming in the cab. Being new to diesel trucks, I wasn't sure if it was normal or not, so I got out and inspected everything. The most noticable oil spot was on the drain plug(of the "industry changing" composite oil pan). I changed that out for the metal pan as soon as we got to the farm in Texas.
I noticed that it solved most of the smell issue, so I didn't worry anymore.
When I got back to Washington and parked in my driveway, I began to notice a small oil spot under the front axle. Researched it, found oil in the valley, changed the Turbo oil inlet and cooler lines.
Problem solved for a little bit.
I deployed for 6 months and came back to a near perfect outline in the shape of my front axle in my driveway(wife is a space cadet and never noticed).
It was only a quart low, and any time I would fill it, it would always drain down to 1 quart low. Researched it, found out it was the Vacuum pump gasket. Swapped it out and didn't have any noticable oil loss for the next 4 months.
About 2 weeks ago, the conditions were perfect and all of a sudden the oil smell was back in the cabin. I did a thorough inspection and noticed that there were two streaks of oil coming down the driver's side of the engine.
Researched it, and the only thing it could be was the CCV. Found the bare bones kit from Rudy's diesel in Amazon for about $140.
I got in in the mail today and went to work.
Sorry for the long preface, but here is the write up and some insight on the reroute.
∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆ Write up ∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆
This mod is real easy. If you can safely rotate your tires, you can do this in about 2 hours.
I tried to use the Chilton manual, but it said take it apart... No ****.
You'll need an 11 or 12mm for the charge pipe clamp.
You only need to take off the side that hooks to the intercooler.
Pull the fuel lines from the filter and tuck them out of the way.
You need a 7mm to loosen the clamp on the filter. Pull it out and set it aside.
Disconnect the ****ty corrugated "piping" from the CCV box and the intake.
(Just twist and pull until it comes off)
You have to take out the two bolts holding the fuel lines/ fuel to injector lines. These require an 8mm.
Now the only thing left( at least for an early 2011 6.7) is to take out the box.
There are three 8mm bolts on the outboard side, one or two 8mm bolts on the inboard side, and maybe a 10 mm on the inboard side as well.
Once you get all of the bolts off, you'll be able to just wiggle the box out of the engine bay.
When the box was out, I inspected the ports. The outlet was pretty clean, nothing if interest. The inlet though... The entire port was filled with sludged oil that never had any chance if getting out due to the poor design of how the vent portion of the box didn't actually meet up with the interior portion of the port.
Once I cleaned that out, it was ready for the install.
For the install, it is 3 fasteners using an Allen head (not sure on the size, 3rd biggest in my Craftsman set).
The big plug goes on the big hole. One fastener.
The 90°elbow goes in the metal piece with 2 holes. Tighten it as much as you can without it interfering with the bolts holes.
Connect the hose and tighten the hose clamp, then run the hose however works for you.
Install the 2 fasteners to secure your new CCV reroute.
Install the cap on hole where the old CCV hose connected to the intake.
Put it all back together in reverse order and you're done!
in my case, the entire box was disposable, with no filter inside. I found the solution to 3 different issues with this.
One- the back of the box had blown out around where the two plastic pieces are joined. This was causing the oil smell in the cabin.
Two- both of the streaks of oil lined up perfectly with the inlet and outlet port of the box.
Three- the intermittent"valve chatter" noise is gone. (Maybe not a full fix yet, but my thought is that since the hole was fairly large and I'm paranoid about the sounds the engine makes, I was hearing some of the exhaust stroke resonate through the hole)
I would definitely recommend a longer hose that exits somewhere near the exhaust(for those in states that are hard on emissions)
If there is any oil coming out and condensing, it is negligible.
**** what the fat bald dude on YouTube says about it destroying your engine. He's the Alex Jones of diesel videos.
I noticed my EGT was between 50-90° lower.
The disposable box or the replacement filter is about half the cost of the kit, so it's not really an absurd price for the longevity aspect.
Feel free to PM me with any questions about this or any of the other fixes mentioned in the novel above!
The EGR and DPF go hand in hand.
The reason being;
If you delete just the EGR but keep the DPF installed all of the "extra" exhaust gas/ soot will clog the the filter.
If you have the disposable box, you should be able to do it as a stand alone, as there are no sensors for it.
I'm not 100% sure when when they started putting the new assembly with the replaceable filter and a MIL sensor. At a minimum, if you have a 2014 - present, it should have the new style.
If that is the case, you can still pull it and do it as a stand alone mod, but you'll have to live with a check engine light until you delete the rest.
If you go that route, once you get your tuner, make sure to let whoever is supplying the tuner/ tunes that you did the CCV mod and need the script written to shut off that CEL as well.
The reason being;
If you delete just the EGR but keep the DPF installed all of the "extra" exhaust gas/ soot will clog the the filter.
If you have the disposable box, you should be able to do it as a stand alone, as there are no sensors for it.
I'm not 100% sure when when they started putting the new assembly with the replaceable filter and a MIL sensor. At a minimum, if you have a 2014 - present, it should have the new style.
If that is the case, you can still pull it and do it as a stand alone mod, but you'll have to live with a check engine light until you delete the rest.
If you go that route, once you get your tuner, make sure to let whoever is supplying the tuner/ tunes that you did the CCV mod and need the script written to shut off that CEL as well.
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