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GSMas

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Greetings all,

I’m a shepherd our herd eats fire fuel around peoples homes in Southern California. 1999 7.3L F350 was running and then would just turn off while driving, not like it’s out of fuel just turn off, but then would only start cold and then die after a few minutes. And was getting these codes:

P0603
P1000
P1118
P1391
P1393

Checked all fuses and replaced
7.5 amp Trialer left lamp
16 30 amp Trailer tow battery
24 30amp power distribution box (wiring harness looked like it may have shorted it out.

Wait to start and normal cranking sound, no start.

P0475
P0603
P1000
P1118

  • Replaced CPS OEM: result crank no start ; tested another new CPS after trying all: crank no start
  • Replaced MAT sensor OEM: result, P1118 went away, crank no start
  • Replaced new Fuel Bowl Filter OEM
  • New Batteries
  • Charged batteries after starting
  • Used engine heater
  • Hpop reservoir is full
  • Oil level is sufficient: oil filter and oil changed within last 1000 miles
= All crank no start.

Codes remaining:
P0603
P1000

Replaced wiring harness off eBay because I couldn’t find the part number for OEM : crank no start.

Codes coming back
P1391
P1393
P1000

  • Tested Glow Plug resistance at valve cover got four pins on each within spec with .8-.9 Ohm
  • Tested relay, here click, witnessed voltage power and then shift accordingly
 
Discussion starter · #3 · (Edited)
Thank you for the videos bismic and links. The relays are working and the resistance measured at the pins of the glow plugs harness are testing within spec.

Still cranking but not starting.

Investigating the links you sent for crank no start.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Ya, I just am giving the best chance so I thought I’d plug it in.

When I changed the fuel filter and cleaned the bowl out the drain valve wouldn’t open. I opened the fuel filter after replacing to see if the fuel was back in there and it was full and would spill out as I’m screwing it back. Any tips on how else can I check if the fuel is actually flowing to the right place past the filter? Like take off the lines and see if it pisses out?

Thanks again!
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
I got a OEM ICP from a Ford dealership but it was the wrong size so I put back the old one for now. I can go get a correct replacement.

I’ll go check if I can get the stats from ICP with FORScan or probe it and report back on that and the fuel flow.

Just in case it helps, I got the IPR from Autozone because I was in a pinch and the last mechanic had “neglected” to put it back in, this is the one.

Image
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Greetings,

I turned on the key to wait to start and the fuel was coming out strong from the drainage valve on the fuel bowl, so I didn’t take off a line to check. Maybe I should still do that although the way it turned off, when it did run, doesn’t sound or feel like a fuel thing, it just shut off like when it doesn’t have oil pressure.

I tightened the bolt on the IPR it was a bit loose and still crank no start. Next I’ll take the whole IPR out (waiting for the shower socket wrench to arrive) after draining the HPOP reservoir, and replace it and give it a go.

Something notable that my battery percentage was down to 35% this is after I charged it last time before crank no start, these are brand new AGM batteries, so that’s suspicious no?
 
Keep in mind that Voltage, during cranking is crucial (especially in a '99) and when below 10v (again While cranking on the starter) could be the cause of a No Start. So, while Cranking on the Starter, use ForScan to monitor these Important parameters;

ICP Pressure ~ (in PSI plz, change ForScan in the Settings from the default kPa), the PCM requires something over 500 before it will trigger the IDM to fire the injectors.

IPR% ~ (shows how Hard the system is having to work to make that ICP pressure)

CRANKING RPM ~ (PCM requires above 100rpm ~ 150 is typical)

CRANKING Voltage ~ (in an '02 PCM requires it not drop below 9v, in a 2000 and under not below 10v)
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Thanks I got the ICP Voltage added and Changed to ICP (and all the other ones) pressure to PSI and cranked after putting the engine block heater and running a battery tender. I snapped the screenshot during the cranking without the battery tender connected.

Here are the numbers:
Image


Image
 
So Many things are Out-of-Whack though....

First, what a P1391 & 1393 are I have No Idea (I don't think they apply to our trucks, not sure why you get them).

Next you have Way Too high a IPR% and the ICP is also too high or at least too high to have the PCM command such a long IPR% to be closed (trying to raise it even further). To add to that, no ICPV ~vs~ Pressure has a Voltage that high! (2900psi should be only 3.6v and all where your Vref is only 2.49v???)

If it were me, I would be thinking you might not have sufficient Fuel Pressure and would want to get a Gauge on it. This can be kind of a PIA because you have to add a fitting because Ford didn't put one on for us (-4 ORB to whatever the gauge hose is) but recently I read where, in-a--pinch, somebody put a gauge on the drain tube and could get a reading.

You've got a Weird one here ;)
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Hi Noralph, thanks for chiming in. I’ll
look into getting ahold of the fuel pressure gauge.

Something I’m noticing now more to my attention is that my batteries are draining fast when leaving the ground connected, and when I crank the cable that connects all my electronics off the positive terminal on the passenger side battery gets very hot (will start to smoke) and the cranking power lessens significantly after 3/4 seconds.

These are brand new AMG batteries and I’ve been charging them each time, and notice they are at less than 50% seemingly every time.

I’m getting error codes off the Veepeak now that one indicates the battery voltage is too low as welll.

Below is the read out for the error codes, fair warning it’s long:


===OBDII DTC ===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: On Board Diagnostic II
===END OBDII DTC===

===PCM DTC P1000===
Code: P1000 - On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) Systems Readiness Test Not Complete

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) Systems Readiness Test Not Complete

Follow the routines in the service manual to resolve the DTC listed.


===END PCM DTC===

===PCM DTC P0603===
Code: P0603 - Power interruption on KAPWR circuit.

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Power interruption on KAPWR circuit.

Open KAPWRcircuit.

Loose/poor battery connections at the battery and engine block.

This DTC may be caused by :

If a recent PCM disconnect or battery disconnect is suspected no action is required unless the code continues to appear after being cleared.

Reprogramming can cause this code. If reprogramming was done clear codes and release vehicle.

Improper connection


===END PCM DTC===

===ECS DTC ===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Electronic Crash Sensor
===END ECS DTC===

===GEM DTC B1352===
Code: B1352 - Ignition key in circuit fault

Module: Generic Electronic Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Ignition key in circuit fault


===END GEM DTC===

===GEM DTC B1450===
Code: B1450 - Wiper select switch circuit failure

Module: Generic Electronic Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Wiper select switch circuit failure


===END GEM DTC===

===GEM DTC B1318===
Code: B1318 - The battery voltage level is too low.

Module: Generic Electronic Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Battery Voltage Too Low

Battery Voltage Low

This DTC may have been set as a result of a discharged vehicle battery or a poor supply connection to the heater unit.


===END GEM DTC===

===GEM DTC B1982===
Code: B1982 - PATS Is Disabled - Check Link Between PATS Module and Transponder

Module: Generic Electronic Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

PATS Is Disabled - Check Link Between PATS Module and Transponder


===END GEM DTC===

===GEM DTC C1182===
Code: C1182 - Parking Lamp Flash Relay Circuit Failure

Module: Generic Electronic Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Parking Lamp Flash Relay Circuit Failure


===END GEM DTC===

===GEM DTC C1223===
Code: C1223 - Lamp Brake Warning Output Circuit Failure

Module: Generic Electronic Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Lamp Brake Warning Output Circuit Failure


===END GEM DTC===

===GEM DTC B1458===
Code: B1458 - Wiper washer pump motor relay coil circuit failure

Module: Generic Electronic Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Wiper washer pump motor relay coil circuit failure


===END GEM DTC===

===GEM DTC B1434===
Code: B1434 - Wiper speed relay coil circuit failure

Module: Generic Electronic Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Wiper speed relay coil circuit failure


===END GEM DTC===

===GEM DTC B1431===
Code: B1431 - Wiper Brake/Run Relay circuit failure

Module: Generic Electronic Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Wiper Brake/Run Relay circuit failure


===END GEM DTC===

===GEM DTC B1840===
Code: B1840 - Wiper Front Power Circuit Failure

Module: Generic Electronic Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Wiper Front Power Circuit Failure


===END GEM DTC===

===GEM DTC B1483===
Code: B1483 - Brake On/Off Switch circuit failure

Module: Generic Electronic Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Brake On/Off Switch circuit failure


===END GEM DTC===

===GEM DTC B1302===
Code: B1302 - Accessory delay relay circuit failure

Module: Generic Electronic Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Accessory delay relay circuit failure


===END GEM DTC===

===ABS DTC ===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Antilock braking system
===END ABS DTC===
 
You have no codes that would concern me there. When it comes to starting, you can ignore anything that starts with a "B", those are Body codes. The two "P" codes (Powertrain) you do have (1000 & 603) are common and mostly ignored.

Post #13, those 4 things, monitor them when cranking to be sure you're above the PCMs requirements.

The idea that, within 3/4sec you can tell something has changed with cranking (which would either speed or voltage I'd think) I would be concerned with though! "Smoking Terminals?" Oh Yea, ya find out what That's all about too.

Nothing should draw so much power from the batteries that a good connection should make Heat. You either have excessive Draw or excessive Resistance. Make sure your battery cables/ends are good, no green in or on any of them and they're all tight.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
Greetings all,

So, I did the dirty deed and used starter fluid. Which I got it turn over multiple times. There seems to be no fuel coming in after it uses the starter fluid and will shut right off after stopping spraying.

I did check the valve on the fuel bowl and it would piss out and I can hear the fuel pump turn on.

Someone mentioned above about the ICP reading being quite high so does that mean the injectors are suspect? …what to do next?


All grateful for the support!

Matthew
 
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