Someone told me I should see 400 psi minimum...sound right?

 

Hey thanks for the quick replies! lol

 

350-400 To start and run, yes.

 

Ok I did a compression test and one cylinder was alot low than the others ( I just did the drivers side for now) The front cylinder,# 2 I bielieve,was low,like inthe 110psi range.
I pulled the glowplugs and injectors on the bank and the tips all look good.Think the injector was over fueling and washed out a cylinder?? If so Could I get a away with just honing and reringing?? The engine has about 190,000km on it which should be nothing for a diesel...

 

You could have valve issues...

 

I put two brand new batteries and just did another compression test. This time I used a gauge that reads to 600 P.S.I.

On the first hole on the drivers side closest to the front I got 210 P.S.I. I squirted some oil in there and then it went up to 230 psi.
Two other cylinders had 370 P.S.I and the last one had 340 P.S.I.
Think I have a cracked piston or just some bent/burned valves?

It overheated right at the end too but I think it ran hot only because it was running on about three cylinders...would barely pull itself around.

 

Been thinking about this and I wonder if I just have a bent push rod or something....Never got around to pulling the motor yet and I think I'm going to test the passenger side before I yank this engine...

Would also like to test the ICP pressure...it too should be a little easier to get at with a gauge.

If the engine was dusted,wouldn't it be equally low on all cylinders? 370 p.s.i is sounding pretty good especially on a cold engine. Plus we are at 3500 ft here so that should lower the numbers...plus my hose I'm using to test normally has a 300 psi gauge on it...maybe the hose is flexing to and that would lower the reading as well.
The fact I squirted oil in the cylinder (and I put lots in there) and the reading only went up 20 psi,makes me think maybe it is a burnt valve or bent push rod..lifter??

It'll be interesting to see what the other side reads...

 

I had exactly the same thing happen at 183000km on my 03, no compression on cyl 2, performed a cyl leakage test, found air escaping into the base. Pulled the engine and disassembled, found injector O ring failed dumping fuel into the cylinder resulting in a melted piston and siezed rings. Cyl walls were perfect suprisingly. I made an air fitting out of an old glow plug to pump the air into the cylinder.

 

I didn't even bother with the cylinder leak down procedure. This engine has approx 190,000km on it so it's getting a serious over haul...
I'm three hrs into the engine removal and all I have left is the ac lines,the bell housing bolts,tourque converter bolts and that's about it. Thought it would be alot harder to pull,guess not.
I just have to look on line here and see what the trick is to remove the turbo. I have the oil pressure line off as well as the two bolts on the bottom of the turbo pedistal.Down pipe clamp and the clamp going to the manifolds are off,there must be something else holding it on.

 

Down pipe clamp and the clamp going to the manifolds are off,there must be something else holding it on.

As a matter of fact, there is. If it's a 2003 model year, there is one more 10mm bolt on the back side of the housing that needs to be accessed on the rearward side of the downpipe near the firewall. Judging by your post, I'm assuming you're pulling the engine the HARD way (cab-on).

 

If that is the hard way then yes,cab on. How hard to yank the cab?

 

How hard to yank the cab?

Believe it or not, the work required to remove the cab makes it far more worthwhile in the end, when you have unlimited access to work with the engine.

 

Ya I know about the cab removal and have seen it done many times down at the ford dealer but I don't have a lift so guess I have to do it this way.

Pain in the but....I took the turbo off and now I'm tring to get the pipes off the exhaust manifolds. Passenger side was easy but drivers side looks pretty tricky.
And tips on what has to come off with the way i'm doing it?

Will the oil pan clear the cross member? Looks like it'll be close....

 

Did you remove everything in front of the engine or are you planning on going over the grille?