lots of ways but most don't change the legal rating ( some states have weird options )

you can do
Arrowcraft Welcome - Arrowcraft :: Helping You Handle the Road for over 30 years!

Southwest Southwest Wheel Company Steel and Aluminum Truck Wheels

you can get a Dana 80 from a F 350 and by fenders and front wheel adapters or rune two rim types ( the Dana 80 05 up uses 8 on 200 mm rims

 

Thanks I guess next question is what is the difference between a F350 DRW and a srw. I understand the conversion kits but can they withstand the heavy payload of a genuine f350 DRW. Do these Favtory F350 DRW have a different axle or a similar kit to fit the wheels. This is for 11-15 only

 

you can find someone that wants to go dwr --> swr and swap parts.
i did that on my 3rd gen dodge and it was pretty easy.

 

the 350 DRW does use a different rear Axle Dana 80 vs SRW Sterling 10.5 and a front wheel adapter and unit bearing ( i think)

other than that you should be the same except maybe spring rates leaf quantity

IDK what the payload is on the conversions? it's really more about the stability/wide stance for those type of kits

 

i swapped axles, bed, hub adapters...all of it

 

Can I here more of this swap elephantrider, and yes this is all for the stability, maybe a little more towing but I know I can't claim it.

i swapped axles, bed, hub adapters...all of it

 

Guys not saying it's legal and it will change the numbers on my door sticker. But with the adapters in the front and rear F350 DRW leaf pack and dually wheels in the front and rear "could I put a 18000lb 5th wheel" safly. LOL

 

I have a '15 F350 DRW and have been considering doing a single wheel swap if your interested PM me

 

This is something I've been pondering too.I really wish I just got the 350 DRW in the first place, because my truck is too built up to trade at this point and like my truck too much, but would like better stability on the road when towing my GN. my recent trip had a couple times when the extra stability would've been appreciated, thankfully nothing bad happened. I understand generally what needs to be changed, the rear axle, and front wheel spacers. Do the gears need to be changed as well? I know 3.73s came standard in the 2014 350DRW, and if i have to change gears I might as well just go to 4.10s. Another curious question, why is it that the DRWs only came with the Limited Slip and not the Locker in the rear?

 

the company that makes the Sterling 10.5 E locker isn't making them for Dana probably because it's all in house

and the torque from a dually might be better suited for a limited slip ?

 

I'm pretty sure the current years are running different gears between SRW and DRW trucks. So you might need to plan a gear swap to boot.

 

Well, I know all diesels at least the SRWs, since the 6.4 era have had 3.55 as the lowest. The 350 DRW and 450 have had 3.73 and 4.30 available. I figure why not just go to the 4.10.
So would it not be wise to try to put an Eaton E-locker in a Dually? I mean isn't the torque ratings the same, as a SRW truck, the bigger axle and extra two wheels are for stability and higher weight carrying capacity, right?

 

I feel inclined to add my $.02 cents to this topic. I too have a SRW F350 and am at the tippy top of my weight limits. The weak point being the rear axle/spring/wheel/tire combination in supporting the pin weight of my 5th wheel. I have air-bags in the rear which help bolster the suspension, and I've looked into everything from heavy-hauler 19.5 tire/wheels to Arrowcraft dually conversions in exploring ways to extend the rear capacity.

But then I started researching the factory numbers. If it wasn't obvious from this thread, the SRW platform has a different and smaller rear-axle than that of it's DRW brother. So regardless of tire/wheel changes or dually hub/adapter conversions, there is no possible way to expand the SRW capacity unless you swap that rear axle for the larger Dana 80. Here's the factory specification for 2015 SRW F350:

Factory specified Rear-GAWR = 7000#

• Rear spring load max = 7000# (can be bolstered with air-bags)
• Ford Sterling Rear Axle: 7280#
• E-rated 20" tires (aftermarket): 3750# each (7500# combined)
• Factory 20" wheels: 3590# (7180# combined)

The weakest link in this stack is the factory wheels, then right behind them is the Sterling axle max limit.

 

it's really all about the tires IMO the sway you get with a SRW vs dual is where the real DRW benefit is IMO

then the outrigger effect of the DRW is the other benefit

 

I'm curious, is the 10.5 Sterling capable of handling some sort of dually adapter, if I just wanted duals for better stability, and not the higher load carrying.

 

yes they sell them at
arrowcraft and a few others

 

Great Thanks.

 

After researching this some more, I've come to a point where I need to choose one of three options:

Opt 1: Level truck so I can run taller and wider tires, I've looked into running 18x9 or 18x10 wheels and that way I'll have wider tires, which will make the truck more stable.

Opt 2: Go with Arrowcraft's Conversion that would allow me to keep my stock axle/gears/ etc, and just have duals in the rear for added stability

Opt 3: Full Dually Conversion with F350 dually axle, new gears and differential etc.

Option 1 seems the most practical but is also expensive, Option 2 is the least expensive, and Option 3 is the most expensive. The question is, which route is best for me.

And on another note, why is it that the Duallys are not offered with the Locking rear diff?

 

I've got a 2014 DRW with 3.73s. I can understand your desire for more stability. I made the jump back in 2002 when I went from 250 SRW to a 350 DRW. The difference in stability is night and day for my pulling. This is my second DRW. The LS in my 2014 is VERY GOOD. It actually growls a bit when turning at slow speeds. I've never had a clutch diff do that. I've considered adding some additive but it has been checked by Ford so I'm running it. Now has 85,000 miles and going good. I don't see a need for an e-locker..

Also, the 3.73s are good for me. I'm at 10,000 lbs trailer weight for a tag car hauler. The torque of the 6.7 is great and I wouldn't want steeper gears. It would just use more gas and put more wear on parts. Your needs may be different.

I will tell you I swapped in 250 springs for a better ride because I pull a tag, not fifth wheel. I didn't need high pin weight. The 250 springs bolted right in, so you know the answer for that part of you project.

Tom

 

@tomshep great info for a very old thread.