The VGT solenoid could be bad, or the vanes could be stuck.

 

I would first check all your intercooler hoses and clamps to make sure there isn't a leak. I would start with the 45 degree elbow that comes out of the turbo. Ford used a silicon tube that is not rated to handle the oil that they engineered to be in the intercooler tubing from a breather. Consequentally these hoses leak...fail..or blow off all together!

If its showing no boost and acting gutless then I am betting it has a majer leak somewhere. Check IC boots and pipes.

I would start where these guys pointed you

Welcome to the Org!

 

where is the VGT selenoid and how do i check if it's bad or not? if the vanes are stuck is there a way to free them up?

 

The VGT is on the side of the turbo,Its controls the linear actuator position of a closed loop hydraulic servo,by charging and venting the flow on both sides of a piston!As fare as the vains sticking there is a TSB on that code you said you had , the number is TSB 08-16-13! Goggle that TSB and read it will tell you!!!!

 

I would first check all your intercooler hoses and clamps to make sure there isn't a leak. I would start with the 45 degree elbow that comes out of the turbo. Ford used a silicon tube that is not rated to handle the oil that they engineered to be in the intercooler tubing from a breather. Consequentally these hoses leak...fail..or blow off all together!

 

If its showing no boost and acting gutless then I am betting it has a majer leak somewhere. Check IC boots and pipes.

 

The easiest way I can think of to direct you to fixing this issue is to give you my own personal experience with the fixes when P2262 has set for me.

First step is to check the MAP sensor hose for air leaks or cracks. Second step is to ensure your MAP, BARO and EBP readings are all within 0.3 psi of each other (around 14.3) at key-on/engine-off. This will require use of a scan tool that can read live data.

If your MAP or EBP readings are way out, the first step is to repair as necessary, whether it's the sensor itself, or the circuit.

What happens when you rev the engine with the accelerator pedal to the floor in PARK or NEUTRAL? Will it rev to 3800 to 4200 RPM, and maintain that engine speed? If not, disconnect the downpipe from the CAT (two 15mm nuts), and run the engine or drive it. Do you now have boost when you drive it, or run it with the downpipe disconnected from the CAT?

What I'm driving at here, is to start with some simple tests, before you jump the gun to the turbo like I've seen too many guys doing.

I had one truck, an E-350 van that showed up on my doorstep that had absolutely NO BOOST. This truck had just had a new turbo and VGT replaced (RETAIL) at another dealer two weeks prior to landing in my hands, that took me all of ten minutes to determine the CAT was plugged. The question that lingered in my mind was how the dealer was able to explain the misdiagnosis, let alone releasing the vehicle in that condition UNREPAIRED.

Another E-Series that ended up in my hands from an independent "garage" the guy dropped off with the expectation that I was going to replace the turbo under warranty, took me all of five minutes to figure out the air filter was restricted. The restrictor gauge was bottomed out. Removing the air filter (an aftermarket cheapie that was "Made In China") was all it took to fix the proeblem!!!

The moral of the story is, CHECK THE BASICS, CHECK THE BASICS, CHECK THE BASICS. Just like the "KISS" rule. I'm sure most of you fine gentlemen know that one. I pass this on to you for what it's worth.

 

vgt solenoid could be bad, vanes could be stuck, ur intercooler hoses could be leaking, bearings in ur turbo could be bad, and just to check, check the connector on ur turbo to make sure its plugged up.

 

thanks for the replies everyone. i took the turbo out and cleaned everything, it was pretty dirty. i put everything back together and now have a boost leak. apparently i didn't seal the 2 halves of the turbo good enough, it's leaking through one of the pinholes on the clamp that holds it together. unfortunately, when i clamped it back together i didn't pay any attention to the position of the bolt on the clamp... it's on the very bottom of the turbo, so it looks like i will have to pull it again just to get to that one bolt.

i just have to say what a horrible, awful pain in the *** this job was. aligning the turbo and getting those damn clamps on was a real *****. i am not looking forward to doing it again.

 

Are you working on the turbo in the truck. if so, it's best to remove turbo as complete assembly, and repair on a bench, then reinstall. See here for link to turbo work:

Diesel Technician Society

 

yes i did remove the turbo as a complete assembly. when i clamped it down it looked tight and flush to me, don't know how there could be a boost leak, but there is. it's also leaking oil, can't tell exactly from where but looks like it might be from where the VGT solenoid seats into the side of the turbo... i took it out and inspected it, wasn't sure exactly how to tell if was good or not, but looked clean and there was a plunger type thing at the end of it that moved freely when pressed so i am guessing it's good. i didn't replace any o-rings on the solenoid, nor did i replace any o-rings on that oil line underneath the turbo. guess i'll have to buy all those and do it again, but the boost leak worries me because i really can't see any reason why it's leaking, i'm quite sure i had the 2 sides of the turbo firmly together and clamped down tight.

 

Mannnnnn, I feel your pain. Those things are a pain in the *** to get back together. Did you put some anti-seize on between the compressor housing and the turbine? When you get it back together that is. You gotta be sure that you have that thing lined up perfect for the impeller to spin properly in unison with the vanes.

When I had this problem it took 4 times for me to line up everything perfect and it solved the boost problem for me. As everyone else has said, look into the MAP and look for a leak elsewhere. Also, since it was sitting for a year--I'd be damn sure that no mice started nesting in your firewall or anywhere else for that matter. I had my truck in my barn for 3 days and a baby field mouse setup house. F*****s are destructive.

 

check that link i sent. It has good details about the 6.0 turbo.

 

i know, the "turbocharger reconditioning" article on their site is the one i followed when i did mine

 

wow, i can't stress enough how much easier it was removing the turbo for the second time... took 30 minutes to get it out of the truck. i ordered the o-rings for the oil tube below the turbo and the gasket for the flexible oil line on the top of the turbo, i'll be picking them up from ford in the morning.

what concerns me now is that there is oil in the boot that wasn't there before i removed the turbo the first time. is there a way to blow a seal by removing the turbo, cleaning the inside, and reinstalling it... assuming i did something incorrectly? also, when i removed the turbo the first time and split it apart, no oil was coming out of the oil line inlet/outlet until i started moving the cam pin thing... is that normal? is it possible that i reinstalled the turbo with the cam pin in the wrong position and it's leaking oil?

also, i i am trying to figure out why the turbo had the boost leak along the clamp that seals the 2 halves of the turbo together... i have it apart now and it looks tight as can be, the clamp also appears to be on evenly. any ideas?

one more thing... if i need to order a rebuild kit, is this turbo the GT25?

 

a small bit oil in the tubine outlet is normal since the CCV vent is on the intake side and will suck a bit of oil vapor from the crankcase during engine operation. Large pools of oil, or a soaking wet turbine is not normal. But if the turbines just have a light film on them, as well as the inside of the CAC tube, this is pretty normal.

 

i'm thinking this is too much, a lot more than the first time i removed the turbo

 

Considering that's on the intake side, I would think that is more likely the CCV oil and not a turbo seal. Usually when turbo seals go, it smokes like a train.... That is really not much oil. when my output CAC boot was leaking on the output of the turbo, it would leak a couple tablespoons of oil a day into the valley, causing the whole truck to stink. But if this is injested and burned, you would never even notice it.

 

it was definitely smoking a decent amount after my test run. could be because of all the oil that leaked out of the turbo when reinstalling it.

but what about the boost leak? there is no gasket or anything between the two halves of the turbo that are held together by that clamp, and all i can to is tighten it... but it's leaking boost out of the little pinholes on the clamp! can i put some silicone gasket maker around the edges before sealing it up again? i gotta figure out something

 

How do you know there is a boost leak? got a pic? did you clean the mating surfaces well? what did you torque the clamp to?