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Brakes getting HOT!!!

5.6K views 17 replies 4 participants last post by  Corey@CNCFAB  
#1 ·
Ok, my husband is in the Navy, he's not currently home. We have a 2006 Ford F250SD, the truck has not been driven since the end of May because its registration expired then. I finally got my new plates from Michigan today and was able to drive it today, which is a good thing because the oil pump blew in our 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 yesterday. Anyway, I drove it from my house to a gas station, 2.37 miles, to put air in the front passenger tire, and fill the tank. I then drove from there to an auto parts store to buy the parts to fix our other truck, 1.87 miles. I proceeded from there to head towards a friends house, my brakes started acting weird so I pulled over 4.71 miles from the autopart store, about .1-.2 miles after the truck started to act up. I stepped out of the truck and smelled brakes. So I went around and felt each wheel, the front passengers side wheel was HOT, smoking hot. I shut the truck off, waited about 20 minutes to let the brakes cool off and turned the truck on, put the truck in drive and let my foot off the brakes and did not hit the accelerator. The truck rolled forward on its own. Yes, I was on level ground. I drove from there to a Merchants tire to see if they could look at the truck, that was 2.02 miles from where I was. By the time I got there, the wheel was hot, but not locked up. They weren't able to look at the truck today, and due to it being my only vehicle, I left. I drove to a friends, another 2.04 miles and the smell was overwhelming, but again, still not sticking. I decided that the truck needed to just go ahead and come home, I no longer feel safe driving it. So I drove home, 7.06 miles and it is now sitting in a parking lot, yet again, wheel hot, but not locked.

I have a broken arm, so I can't feasibly fix this truck. Some people have said its a caliper sticking. Others say its something in the brake fluid. And my husband believes that it could be either the caliper sticking or the flex brake line needing to be replaced. Anyone have any insight before I go and bring this truck to a shop and pay $500+ to fix stuff that really isn't wrong because they feel they can take advantage of me.


Thanks so much!
 
#2 ·
It's really hard to say without looking at. Do you have any nearby friends that are gear heads? Since you know what one it is I would go ahead and rip into it to see what's going on. It has sat for a while so I would say its the caliper rusted up, the bad brake line would normally be loss of brake peddle. You might be able to take the caliper of and get it freed up again, but replacement of the unit will set off the ABS light and will need to be bled off by somebody that can cycle the ABS pump. I have herd of a few tricks to get past that, but idk if they really work, at worse you just don't have ABS.


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#3 ·
Unfortunately, all of my motorhead friends are on the ship with my husband and therefore not available, but I may just give up and try to do it myself, I need the truck fixed. If I do end up having to replace the caliper, is it going to effect the drive-ability of the truck if the ABS isn't functioning? My husband gets home fairly soon and if I can just make it drive without messing it up any worse, I would imagine he can figure out how to cycle the ABS pump since when we replaced calipers last time he did it himself.
 
#6 ·
agreed... if its been sitting... prolly caliper needs greased up or replaced... any reputable shop around there should be able to diagnose and fix in an hour... good luck!
 
#10 ·
There are two cups inside the caliper that move in and out. But without it on the truck installed it isn't very easy to test it.

So here is the next thing to check.

Jack the truck up after it has sat for overnight. Does the wheel spin by hand very easy? If yes, then next inexpensive part to replace is the hose from the frame to the caliper. It could be bad inside the hose not letting the brake fluid to go back to the reservoir.

If its difficult to spin then its either a bad new caliper(not likely but happens) or the slide pins are seized.

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#12 ·
Thx for the info.

If it is indeed the hose that will be the less expensive part to change. If that doesn't fix it, it is a bad Master Cylinder.

The mc can be tested for being bad, but it will actually cost more to test if you don't have the proper tools to do so.

If you have to end up replacing the master cylinder, don't buy the cheap remanufactured one. Sometimes they are bad right out of the box. Autozone does carry or can get a new mc.

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#18 ·
You still need to make sure the slide pins are not seized. I agree master cylinder probably isn't it, but could be. But its a bit difficult for me troubleshoot well over the internet, especially for grinding/vibration symptoms.

Again wheel bearing typically will not heat up a rim a seize up a brake. It will get more and more loose over time.

That and a wheel bearing unit can be $300+

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