OEM or Powerstop for affordable/reliable rotors. I would only recommend Autzone/Oriley on a beater car that you are just needing to sell. I am using the powerstop performance kit and installed around march of 2016. Follow the brake rotor/pad break in instructions and you're set. I don't tow 40ft 5th wheels but litterally hundreds of double/tripple axel 5th wheels and goosenecks my my F250 and they have performed very well even when trailer brakes are junk.

 

Thanks, I'll look into Powerstop. OEM will be an opinion also

 

PS i chose powerstop after seeing how $$$ oem was but I have been a pro oem guy for a long time with very good results but the powerstops have great reviews and little more affordable. I can't stress how important the break in procedure is though. I didn't do it on some cars and got so tired of it just got new rotors and pads. (spinning them and the labor/my time) was not much cheaper in the end anyways. Powerstop makes various options too. A daily driver, performance and one designed specifically for towing. I got mine on rockauto for like $425 plus shipping for 4 rotors and pads front/rear set.

 

As far as I can tell, the rear rotors are fine. Is there a benefit to replacing all four? I "think" that the rears are oem. I keep an eye on the pads at every tire rotation.

 

I only change rotors if they are deeply scored, develop pulsation due to thickness variation, or have hard spotting.

 

Drilled and slotted rotors w/ceramic pads changed the way my truck stops by a good percentage. I recommend them to anyone.

 

Ford ! My 06 6.0 has over 180,000 miles with lots of stop and go los angeles traffic and heavy 10K+ towing with the original rotors. The front rotors were turned once at about 90,000 miles just because I was repacking the bearings and decided to but they didnt need it. The rear rotors have never been touched. My 02 has 161,000 miles on the Ford rotors and I put over 80,000 miles on it in stop and go los angeles traffic and pulling 10K+ trailers. I will be replacing the left front rotor with a new Ford rotor from the Ford dealer on the 02 because the pin jammed out on the road and caused the pad to drag and put a deep groove in it. Spend the extra money and get the Ford rotors and you will save a lot of money.

 

Depending on where you live and the winter climate as where I do, in northern NY. I feel that with road salts, sand etc. make a huge difference in regard to the slide pins on these calipers. I would service my calipers 2x a year, spring and fall and once I tried the Powerstop kit (Noticeable difference over stock when new) the rubber boots they use and the rebuilt calipers quality was sub par. I had 1 front caliper seal go bad and seize and 1 rear caliper slide pin seize. The Powerstop rotors I felt were very good over stock but have since replaced the calipers and pads with OEM Ford items. Ford now doesn’t sell rebuilt calipers. They come packaged as NEW with pads as a set now. Just as good. Where I would use quality grease on slide pins and the cheapo Powerstop slide pin seals would fail, obviously the grease didn’t last. I goober them now with never-seize and that issue has been good. Still running the Powerstop rotors and OEM calipers and pads with no issues.


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Went with these not long ago, so far so good.... from rock auto RAYBESTOS PERFORMANCE ROTORS

 

Raybestos is a quality item. Most are as long as you stay away from anything “China”


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Not as much as you may think.

 

raybestos? i have used them for forty years with good results but i have not had to replace anything recently ...

i did however just order the whole set of power stop z36 towing rotors pads and calipers. heard a lot of good reviews so really hoping for good results.
my oem with 185 are toast.
i will also add i have run autozone lifetime pads and rotors on the suburban for about 200k nad have only had to replace the pads once and they gave them to me for free...
no complaint there but the tolerances are WAY different with the super duty and as a rule i am a fan of oem on this thing. the power stops are rebuilt fomoco calipers. so many good reviews even here on the org i dont expect any problems

 

I'm running the Nakamoto drilled-slotted rotors with ceramic pads from 1A Auto and I like them

 

i had the nakamotos on my list on ebay and they stopped carrying them. I didnt even think to look at 1a

 

By far , frozen rotors.. cryogenically treated , drilled and slotted and with the best brake pads by far (EBC) brake pads, you’ll never have to purchase another set of rotors again unless you have a caliper lock up on you and it gouges your rotor.
And they aren’t really that expensive considering how much $$$ you save in the future and even on brake pads.. make sure that you use (EBC ) brake pads as they are by far the best that you can purchase and wont tear up your rotors, never warping your rotors and lasting at least 3 times longer than any other brake pad..


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The runout is really crucial on the Superduty (really all vehicles) unless you use a friction material with a high abrasive content to wear the rotors true during braking. The initial P131 launch had three things against it, high rotor runout, flexible hubs, and low abrasion friction material. Low abrasion doesn't necessarily mean low friction. It didn't take long for the hubs and rotors to get upgraded. Friction wasn't changed until the switch to TRW calipers in '05 to more abrasive friction.

Rotors can get away with a rougher surface finish in the aftermarket, with the consideration of "break-in" or thermo-cycling the new pads. You can't do that with new cars because of the potential customer test drive.

I haven't used the Z36 formulation as yet. On lighter weight vehicles I've used the Z23 on two vehicles, I'm at 50% with an inspection needed 'cause somethings going on. On the Superduty, I've run PFC "Z", Hawk LTS, and Motorcraft Superduty. Those are all good functional materials, although the LTS are at the bottom due to the high metallic characteristic of poor cold friction.

Every friction material has a compromise, which is why some people have issues while others don't.

 

thanks for the info
"Every friction material has a compromise"
i cant tell you how many times i read those very words while shopping around for brakes.
am i think it is those words that have me still second guessing if i bought the right set up.
i suppose that the deciding factor is i bought them already they are going on 🤣
seems like pretty much everyone who has tried them, is happy with them.
so i suppose/hope i will wind up on that list as well.
i should be asleep right now but i just got home from dropping off the kid at work and i can never sleep right after driving. so i am trying to research if 16 awg is adequate for the blue wire mod.
not sure how often i will even run it at but living in the mountains there are times it would be nice to be able to engage the fan early. especially towing 10 k uphill for miles like over donner summit for instance

 

You most likely will be fine with them. The majority usually is. Even OE friction has compromising aspects, it's just on an OE level you get to spend 1 1/2 to 2 years working on fine-tuning or changing the formula, and then spend the rest of the product cycle of 5-6 years making minor adjustments. Not the basic formula as that would require another round of NHTSA and prove-out testing across the country, but adjusting for noise or NVH. If OE proves out to be really bad, then it gets changed to design the production cycle. That happened with the F-150 and Expedition early in the century with the black brake dust issues.

 

I have posted several times in regard to Z36 Powerstop Kit that I have used now for a few years and towed with light use.
The 4 rotors I still have in service and are I feel a good product. I have since replaced 1 front and 1 rear caliper (within 12 months) due to piston seal failure and with Northern NY winters they didn’t fare well with slide pins either. I think that’s also the reason now that Ford only sells NEW not rebuilt kits with pads. Not sure who was or is rebuilding for powerstop but was obvious the seals, boots and overall fit and finish was subpar to OEM parts.
The piston seals dried up and let water/salt in and froze within 5,000 mi.
If you are in the south and don’t see salt roads maybe you’ll be ok. Otherwise I’d buy OEM new again and again, being dealers are within most areas and internet sale, you know what you’re getting. These trucks are old now and not many aftermarket quality items left to buy that are within reasonable pricing.


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They do look pretty though once installed. And after following the break in. Was a difference, just didn’t last for me.

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I see they are using post vane rotors whereas a lot of aftermarkets just drop that and go to the straight vane. What would be interesting is to look at the rotor and see if it shows a cast in label of TRW, who was the assembly line supplier. The post vane style was used '99-04, then TRW went to straight vane.

I've always been an advocate of new calipers out of Ford. To the point while the platform was still in production I bought sets of new calipers and rotors to have for the future. Ford was selling rebuilt calipers under the Motorcraft line, Its good to see they are again selling new.

The problem with any of the rebuilt calipers is there is rust pitting in the dust boot grooves. It's not machined out during the cleaning process so the new boots never fully seal and are compromised. Sometimes you can put silicone grease or RTV there to help, it doesn't always work.

And with aftermarket, are they using the same quality compounds for the seals, boots, and sliding pin boots. Most often, it's a generic formulation, not necessarily the same as OE and in some cases of OE, the formulation if different on platforms due to the measured operating environment.

 

With our design calipers, the slide boots take a direct hit from the rotor shedding heat. Even OE has issues with that, they should have been silicone or shielded. The initial launch Akebono calipers used slide boots on the bracket side that were lipped to the inside, like the caliper pistons boots. It was a better design, but Ford had them retool to outside sealing thinking the inside design was too restrictive for caliper sliding, That didn't go well, so the third generation had rubber sleeves added to the lower pins to re-establish the hysteresis. Which actually was even worse. The rear calipers always retained the inner seal design during '99-04. No matter, the bolt side of the boot was always an outer design, susceptible to leaking in moisture when the boot heated and expanded.

 

well hell...like i said i own em they're going on 🤣
i can keep and rebuild the old ones if i have an issue or the new ones for that matter. hopefully they will hold up well and work out for me.
we do get some fairly deep snow at times but no salt at least, i can lube them up every spring and maybe fall and just see how well the hold up
i did get 185 out of the old ones but i rebuilt one at a gas station down in reno a couple years ago 🤣

 

For those of us that run in a region where the new dicers are being used, its more of an issue. SoCal and the like could run forever.

 

dicers? i feel like i should know what you are talking about and yet ...
i tend to get 80k out of a set of pads probably because i don.t do any stop and go driving? heck i put 70 on the superduty and the pads were the ones on the truck when i bought it and the po was not "the best" at keeping up on maintenance

 

My previous posts in regards to Powerstop, mainly pertained to the seals and boots they provide with their kits. They were made with subpar materials and in the end those failed and led to caliper piston failure as well as the pics of slide pin boots seizing as well. I recall them fitting like crap while installing.
Trying to get them to tuck in where need be was frustrating. Excessive powder-coating where those spots were need to be scraped for fitment still left me wondering “when”. My fault I guess.
I worked at a Ford dealership in parts back in the 80s-90s and remember all the issues early on with Super Duty trucks and brake issues, updates etc etc... Brake issues always seems to plague these trucks. When I replaced calipers with OEM I compare the boots that came with Powerstop (they give you bags of boots and clips) it was obvious the difference from Ford OEM quality rubber vs Powerstop crap boots. This alone led to my fails.
If you’re bent on using Powerstop brake kits then go to a Ford dealer, purchase all the slide pin kits (NEW with Boots) and toss the junk tha comes in Powerstop kits. Ask me how I know [emoji385][emoji385][emoji385]..


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it is a fomoco cast caliper.
i could go get some fomoco slide pins or just order them
i have to tear into the whole axle for u joints etc anyways and while i look forward to getting my truck back on the road... it is more important to me to get it as "right" as i can

 

Except for the Raybestos new cast rear calipers that are available, they should all have FoMoCo cast in the body. Ford contracts with a supplier to design and manufacture the calipers, FoMoCo owns the tooling and all rights to the design and production. The caliper manufacturer, Akebono or TRW, can't sell the calipers in the aftermarket, Ford is the only path. Every rebuilder gets cores or buys quantities from salvage yards.



Deicers in use: Sodium chloride (brine, liquid version), calcium chloride, magnesium chloride, calcium magnesium acetate, potassium, sodium acetate, etc. Some eye of newt thrown into some.

It’s probably the mix of several of these that cause the real nasty erosion we see in the Northeast on rotor surfaces.

I got around 125k on stock pads, 80k with the high metallic Hawk LTS with Superdutys. Wear, volume loss is all about energy dissipation, how much dissipation per 10,000 miles. A day in the life of a Superduty running in LA (sim) at GVW, 666 brake applies, 85 minutes of brake-on time, 200,000 BTU dissipation. T6 is ambient temp. Pads last about 25k.