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Discussion starter · #43 · (Edited)
Wow! Thanks for all of the effort and hardcore tech info. The LN literature had internal part numbers listed and I factored that in as a positive aspect. Now I see that getting those parts could prove difficult at best.

I put the oem unit back in before Monday. From a cold start, it slowly crawls up to 14.1v on the CTS monitor. This should be right at 14.4v on the terminals and it's working perfect. I checked the voltage at the B+ sense and case ground resistance at cold rest. No problems found with that quick check. I've also verified that the harness connector seats properly into the LN regulator. It is also exhibiting the GPCM idle surge. That's two potential issues with the LN itself right out of the box that the oem unit does not have. The LN has ~100 miles on it. It is a beast on the output right after I hit the starter. That's what I'm looking for without any additional anomalies over what the oem unit has.
 
All the times I've switched in the L-N I never had connector issues, the exception being the wiring is a little too short so the harness hangs by connector. This would be true for any large case alternator. So I added a new connector using the tails to extend the harness.
 
owns 2003 Ford F-350 Lariet
Discussion starter · #45 ·
I've read the FTE thread and someone had similar high readings. They found that the connector wasn't fully seated and it cured the high voltage. I would have been thrilled if that was the fix.
 
There have been soooo many threads........, and soooo many posts ........ on FTE about this alternator. Enough discussion that I'm ready for a little S-10. I'd have to see that post; if the sense maybe was not connected tightly.

Most of the time, mine was doing this. Voltage kicks up to 14.6, GPCM kicks off, life is good......maybe not emissions. This was recorded as more of a demonstration of the time it takes for the batteries to achieve their initial charge for short-hop people, not the long drawn out charge to replenish fully. I never actually completed that video.

 
owns 2003 Ford F-350 Lariet
Discussion starter · #48 ·
He didn't seat the connector all the way in. A poor sense wire connection, probably arcing.

It's the same as on the Ford OE alternators and any alternator that uses the same connection. They snap in with a tab. Others have not gotten it in all the way on replacement 110s and 140s. It happens.
 
owns 2003 Ford F-350 Lariet
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Update So my email to Alternator Partss.com aka Quick Start Automotive Electric™
about the F600HD regulator issues went unanswered
they really are terrible at communication via phone or email
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
These people put new brushes in regulators. rotatingelectproducts on eBay
Maybe they can do the brush swap for you. Good luck with it.

Not sure if my vendor noticed the last email. I do know that the recent events has somehow impacted them. They did answer the phone prior to that and we confirmed the basics on the install. I will give them another ring tomorrow.
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
The vendor installed a Taditel regulator. The T900XHD is no longer listed on the website and hopefully that is what I have. I didn't pull it to check the actual part number.

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772845


The LN regulator output was ~14.7-14.8v at warm cruise with everything on. The oem alternator and the Taditel voltage is about the same at ~14.1v. The peak recorded is 14.8V so far. It has been ~60F ambient the past couple of days, so no idea how well it it will play with the GPCM yet.

This is the original regulator for reference:
772846
 
But it's a 14.8v set point. So the GPCM should pop off the glow plugs, and ya better have the batteries that like high volts.
 
owns 2003 Ford F-350 Lariet
Discussion starter · #55 ·
But it's a 14.8v set point. So the GPCM should pop off the glow plugs, and ya better have the batteries that like high volts.
That does raise some concern with battery health. Good wet cell pairs cost more than the alternator. It started out at 14.8, dropped to 14.6@10min idle, 14.4@20min, then 14.1 on the highway. It would be a no-go for me if it stayed at 14.8. Do you believe that this is going to shorten the life of them?

IIRC, my oem alternator will peak at 14.4 and my research agrees that this is a good target.
 
It most likely has a temperature compensating circuit in it - why you see the drop. 14.4v should be the high limit by the design of this truck. As far as the batteries go, that depends on the type of batteries you have, and most importantly, what the manufacturer of your batteries says. Some prefer a higher voltage than what our trucks were designed around. But that answer again goes back to the battery manufacturer, not a solid answer you'll get from any forum.

But the glow plugs sure are not going to stay on for long.

I really don't understand why that vendor has installed the T900XHD; the voltage is too high.
 
owns 2003 Ford F-350 Lariet
Discussion starter · #57 ·
ALL of the Tatidel 6G offerings listed are 14.8V. I've read 14,14.1 and 14.4 for various 6G applications. What were they thinking...or were they? :unsure:

That leaves me with a Transpo F600HD(14.4V) to try if necessary. It was $20 to my door while I was waiting for the due diligence to happen.

I've somewhat given up on any real concern with the GPCM surge in this climate, but traveling is always a possibility. The sensitive electronics will be behind a redarc controller which prompted the need in the first place.
 
Discussion starter · #59 ·
Nations. Not that I intend to call them out on anything unless I'm stuck with dead unit. It's in my first post too. At the time, I was looking for a quick weekend answer to confirm that the oem unit needed to go back on.

14.4v should be the high limit by the design of this truck.
I've collected a few bits of literature for this truck. Do you have a solid reference for that?

I found this code caused by the LN install. Can't remember if it called out a specific voltage before it was cleared, but it hasn't appeared again.
772879
 
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