Do not run an OBS myself, but I will tell you the 1.0 is a better fit for most. The .84 is quicker to spool, but will run out on the top end. The 1.0 is better overall, especially if you don't have an intercooler.

RPM doesn't directly correlate with boost psi. A lot depends on the load behind you, or what kind of terrain you are in.

 

I agree with Justin. ironically I was just talking to Charlie @KCTurbo about this just a few minutes ago. He mentioned an .84 housing w/o a wastegate can put alot of strain on the turbo.

 

Yes, that is for sure. I'm sure BP numbers would be very high when boosting hard.

 

I went with a 1.0 on my '95. It's a F-350 cab and chassis dually, with a 3 yard dump. 4.10 gears. I didn't lose any top end. Of course I rarely drive it over 70mph. But even at that speed, I cant tell I still have throttle left.

I changed the housing and installed the riffraff billet wheel at the same time. As well as gutting the ebpv. It was a very noticeable mod.

 

Thanks for everyone's input and time.

I just got back from pulling the tin can to Yellowknife and back (5875 miles). I'm content with the millage (14.7 to 18.1) and hp for now, my camper only weighs ~3000 lbs. I really want to eliminate as much smoke as possible though. We called our camper the tin can, now it's the coal car.

I need an intercooler first. Which one (largest) will require a new thread.

So where I stand now is; IC, PHP tunes, T500 and either a 1.0 housing and WW2 or the KC turbo?

Corey, would you be interested in discussing this, maybe a package deal?

 

Just use an aluminum 7.3 stock IC as this will be easier to swap along with an e99 spider.

You could go either way with a KC billet wheel and 360 bearing kit or the new KC-TP38R.

http://cncfab.us/shop/kc-turbo-94-5-97-kc-tp38r/

 

I know you stated you were going to start a new thread on it but just keep in mind when selecting an intercooler it's not always about size versus volumetric efficiency for flow as well as cooling.

If yoy shoe horn the biggest volume intercooler in you can it could actually hurt your system by slowing the air flow through it and increasing your heat, some would say it's a pressurised system so flow doesn't matter but yes it still matters.

Just go with the 7.3 stock unit or one of the other aftermarket u it's designed for the truck. You can go with a 6.0 but it has plastic end tanks and some don't like that but seriously are you gonna a be running 60+ psi in your obs unless it's a dedicated race rig or street toy?

Sorry for the derail.

 

I understand and agree. I plan on incorporating an "air intake" between the grill and IC to address air flow. In fact, I'm not going to reinstall the grill until I can take some air temps before and after.

 

If you can afford it highly consider the KC ball bearing drop in turbo. Seems like it would complement your setup well. It's essentially their version of a 38R which have a reputation of being a good towing turbo.

 

I was on the KC site earlier and there were only two turbos I saw, their version of the 38r and the KC66 both of which showed the super duty style of outlet flange for the downpipe.

Did I miss something or does an obs owner need to switch to the SD style downpipe flanges

Will go ahead and say I could have looked in the wrong spot haha. I know some sites will disclaim that the image is for reference and may not be the actual product reciever and when ordering could ask for specific year and such(didn't get that far).

 

The OBS version is only up on my site in the link I gave earlier.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk