I've got this crazy idea in my head to swap a 66-78 ford crew cab body or 73-79 chevy crew cab body on an 05+ ford coil sprung front end diesel frame. This all started with me wanting a newer diesel, but not wanting to lay down $15,000 or pay newer truck taxes. Don't want to swap drivetrains into a classic frame because of the harsh ride of old leafs and the frame that wasn't designed for 600+ tq.
I've seen guys do it with the duramax frame and GM used the same front frame on all body styles, and just slid different length frames into the front frame so guys cut the factory welds, shortened the frame, then slid it back in and rewelded.
1972 GMC Using 2003 Chevy 2500HD duramax Chassis - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network
Did Ford do that as well? Or am I stuck doing a Z cut?
The GM has the pros of the duramax and Allison, and soft ride of IFS, but I hate the way lifted IFSs look, and it wouldn't look right to have an IFS on a classic body, plus zf6 duramaxs are hard to find. The dodge 12 and 24 valves are cheapest, and the cummins is great, but I don't like dodge frames because the 94-02s cracked in the rear and the 03+ rusted out, plus it would have to be a stick (which I don't mind but limits potential candidates) since dodge autos are junk. I don't want the battleship turning radius of a leaf sprung crew cab 7.3.
05+ fords are very common, and all over copart.com for under $5000. I want a rolled 05+ crew cab or ext cab long bed and ill shorten the frame, driveshaft and brake lines, and keep everything else the same. Use the stock guage cluster, steering column, pedals, electronics, everything, just weld on new body mounts and core support.
Now here's the questions:
Pros and cons to using a 05-07 6.0, 08-10 6.4, or should I pony up and watch out for a scorpion? With the body off, head studs, EGR delete and oil cooler replacement on a 6.0 is easy, the 6.4 or 6.7 would get all deletes and just a turbo back exhaust and a tune for mpg and towing.
It would be used for towing up to 8000lbs, across the Appalachians to different tracks for my Camaro, and towing the boat, and daily commuting in rough weather when I can't drive the bike or Camaro.
What are the MPG differences between a deleted and tuned for mpg 6.0, 6.4 and 6.7? It will be on as skinny of 33-35" tires as I can find, either 255/85/16s or something to look like the old high boys.
Thoughts?
I've seen guys do it with the duramax frame and GM used the same front frame on all body styles, and just slid different length frames into the front frame so guys cut the factory welds, shortened the frame, then slid it back in and rewelded.
1972 GMC Using 2003 Chevy 2500HD duramax Chassis - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network
Did Ford do that as well? Or am I stuck doing a Z cut?
The GM has the pros of the duramax and Allison, and soft ride of IFS, but I hate the way lifted IFSs look, and it wouldn't look right to have an IFS on a classic body, plus zf6 duramaxs are hard to find. The dodge 12 and 24 valves are cheapest, and the cummins is great, but I don't like dodge frames because the 94-02s cracked in the rear and the 03+ rusted out, plus it would have to be a stick (which I don't mind but limits potential candidates) since dodge autos are junk. I don't want the battleship turning radius of a leaf sprung crew cab 7.3.
05+ fords are very common, and all over copart.com for under $5000. I want a rolled 05+ crew cab or ext cab long bed and ill shorten the frame, driveshaft and brake lines, and keep everything else the same. Use the stock guage cluster, steering column, pedals, electronics, everything, just weld on new body mounts and core support.
Now here's the questions:
Pros and cons to using a 05-07 6.0, 08-10 6.4, or should I pony up and watch out for a scorpion? With the body off, head studs, EGR delete and oil cooler replacement on a 6.0 is easy, the 6.4 or 6.7 would get all deletes and just a turbo back exhaust and a tune for mpg and towing.
It would be used for towing up to 8000lbs, across the Appalachians to different tracks for my Camaro, and towing the boat, and daily commuting in rough weather when I can't drive the bike or Camaro.
What are the MPG differences between a deleted and tuned for mpg 6.0, 6.4 and 6.7? It will be on as skinny of 33-35" tires as I can find, either 255/85/16s or something to look like the old high boys.
Thoughts?