2003 f350 7.3. Truck runs great when cold but once it warms up it gets a rough idle. The truck hitches slightly when taking off from a stop light when left to coast ahead on its own without touching the fuel pedal. Last night the truck just died and the cam postion sensor was bad. Changed the cam position sensor. Truck works but still rough idle when warm. Got a scan tool and you can see the cylinder balance is good when cold but once hot about half of them are off by 1-5% and the other half are fine. Does anyone have any ideas? No fault codes found.:tard:
Northern Climate
Under Valve Cover Harness. Your wiring for the injectors run thru the valve cover and the connector sometimes gets messed up.
pull the plug from the valve cover side. OHM the injectors. The outer 2 pins on each side is the glow plugs. The middle is the common. SO thest the 2 pins on each side of the center. SHould be no more then like .6 i think it is? SOmeone will chime in here. I think theres a write up on it. Its not hard.
Ok no luck with the OVCH. Put truck on computer and have all kind of data but have no idea what is good or bad. I do see the coolant temp is reading -40. Changed out sensor and it is still reading -40. Anyone have any new ideas. The #6 and #7 on the balance test is the only ones not reading anything when up to temp now. All are reading 0 when cold. Any help would be great.
Update
After taking the truck to the Ford doctor (waste of money) They said the first thing to do was to replace the #8 injector because it was comming up failed. Replace the injector and went down the road. Within 10 min it was found out that it didn't fix the problem it made it worse. Meaning they replaced it with a 1-7 and not an #8 which makes a cracking noise plus the hitching is still there. Took truck back and service manager and he laughed at me. No S**t. The next week took it to another Ford garage and found out that there is a bulletin out. The new CPS will cause the problems that I am having and there isn't a fix as of yet. Nice!!!!! $750 Nice!!!!!! (new injector)and the Big Blue Oval guys are supposed to know their trucks. Not all dealerships are up on there trucks.:dunno:
After taking the truck to the Ford doctor (waste of money) They said the first thing to do was to replace the #8 injector because it was comming up failed. Replace the injector and went down the road. Within 10 min it was found out that it didn't fix the problem it made it worse. Meaning they replaced it with a 1-7 and not an #8 which makes a cracking noise plus the hitching is still there. Took truck back and service manager and he laughed at me. No S**t. The next week took it to another Ford garage and found out that there is a bulletin out. The new CPS will cause the problems that I am having and there isn't a fix as of yet. Nice!!!!! $750 Nice!!!!!! (new injector)and the Big Blue Oval guys are supposed to know their trucks. Not all dealerships are up on there trucks.:dunno:
its not neccessary to have an AE injector in the number 8 hole. It will run quieter but wont cause hesitations or issues(1-7 are AD injectors). When the new grey cps causes phantom codes, its usually throws cylinder 3 and number 8 injectors. (both together) You can get a international cps, part number 1807339c92. It will be blue and help it run smoother and quieter. Its not good to use this if you are running a tuner. But if stock it will be better.
I had a similar issue on mine.
Pay attention if its weorse at say 1/4 tank? If so you need to do the "hutch mod"
Its possible at 1/2 tank too.
Also check the injector wires at the main harness plug at the top of the drivers valve cover. Theres a 10mm bolt that bolts the harnesses together. IT then bends to the inside of the motor. It will push against the bottom and side of the valve cover.(the issue is, injector wires are on the bottom. I had them pushing on the cover and arcing when it got hot. These wiresbend down and then do like a 90 degree to the other side of thr motor. At this bend its forced against the cover. The plastic cover can break or wear thru the wires. Might check here. ALso ohm all wires at the valve cover....
I had a similar issue on mine.
Pay attention if its weorse at say 1/4 tank? If so you need to do the "hutch mod"
Its possible at 1/2 tank too.
Also check the injector wires at the main harness plug at the top of the drivers valve cover. Theres a 10mm bolt that bolts the harnesses together. IT then bends to the inside of the motor. It will push against the bottom and side of the valve cover.(the issue is, injector wires are on the bottom. I had them pushing on the cover and arcing when it got hot. These wiresbend down and then do like a 90 degree to the other side of thr motor. At this bend its forced against the cover. The plastic cover can break or wear thru the wires. Might check here. ALso ohm all wires at the valve cover....
I've had a similar rough warm idle problem for the last year, I am going nuts trying to solve it. I have tried all 3 of the CPS's and am now running the original black, and although this solves the cylinder contribution issue on 3 and 8 it did not change the idle whatsoever. I have a new IPR, new ICP, new injectors. I'm still using a fair amount of oil (prob. 1 qt every 1000) and have my rough warm idle. Different tunes from different companies (DP-tuner and BDP) haven't made a difference either.
If you have an o-ring going bad then it will leak when the oil warms up and gets thinner. If the oil is not leaking out, but being used, I would look at injector o-rings.
First off, thanks greasyf250 and greasltn for your input and sorry to Northern Climate for the thread hi-jack.
That is what I'm thinking, injector o-rings have to be the answer. I'm a little concerned because I had the oil usage (but not quite as bad) before I just put in new hybrid injectors 2000 miles ago. I'm thinking that I had o-rings going bad with the old injectors, and then when I put the new ones in I didn't get one or several seated perfectly in their bores.
I don't know what else the oil usage could possibly be. Upon startup in the morning I do get some light blue smoke when the engine is cold (even when it is 80 degrees outside, doesn't matter). I do not have excessive blowby so I'm almost positive I don't have a piston ring issue.
I have a new set of Alliant o-rings coming from Diesel Orings.com that I will be installing next weekend so I'll know then if this was the issue.
may not be your problem but i just spent several hundred dollars on my truck when it went down. it had no fault codes and it ran great when cold when warm lost power then died eventually. then after all the parts and work i found that the fuel pressure regulator housing that forms a plus sign and holds the spring in place was broken the spring pushed into return line and i would loose all fuel pressure when warm. dont know why only when warm dut no issues for 2 months now. i took it to the dealer and they said my hpop and possibly injectors were going out. glad i decided to keep working on it myself.
That's a generic answer at a stealership, they love saying that and soaking you for $2000 and still not fix the problem.
I get it too... somehow only after my oil has 5000+ miles on it... I had my oil tested and it tested out fine as well.
Guess what fixes it for me? Changing the oil.
I put in the international CPS, and it smoothed things out a little but the only way she runs perfectly smooth is for the first 4,000 miles on a fresh oil change.
Only my experience, but I'd love to hear if it works for you.
Scott
Guess what fixes it for me? Changing the oil.
I put in the international CPS, and it smoothed things out a little but the only way she runs perfectly smooth is for the first 4,000 miles on a fresh oil change.
Only my experience, but I'd love to hear if it works for you.
Scott
1999 F550 7.3L
I am having rough idle issues as well. My problem started a while back. The truck would die after long highway trips. It would sit for 1-2 min and then run fine for awhile. Had heard from alot of people about the cam sensor. Went to ford they gave me the new grey one for free because of the recall. Installed the new sensor and that problem went away. About one week after that truck started running terrible no power. Took it to a local shop he told me that the 1,3,8 injectors were bad. Took the truck home pulled all the injectors and took them to a local fuel injection place that can test them. They said that the number 1 was dead but the rest were working but had oil bypass. I decided to replace all 8 injectors. I bought a reman set from pensocola fuel injection along with new gaskets and harneses. Got the truck back together and now the power seems to be about 95% of what it was before all this started but it idles rough and just seems out of time or something. The only mod I am running is a Quadzilla box. I have run the truck with and without the box and it makes no difference. I would like to try the IH cam sensor but you guys said not to use with mods. Any help would be greatly apprecited.
I am having rough idle issues as well. My problem started a while back. The truck would die after long highway trips. It would sit for 1-2 min and then run fine for awhile. Had heard from alot of people about the cam sensor. Went to ford they gave me the new grey one for free because of the recall. Installed the new sensor and that problem went away. About one week after that truck started running terrible no power. Took it to a local shop he told me that the 1,3,8 injectors were bad. Took the truck home pulled all the injectors and took them to a local fuel injection place that can test them. They said that the number 1 was dead but the rest were working but had oil bypass. I decided to replace all 8 injectors. I bought a reman set from pensocola fuel injection along with new gaskets and harneses. Got the truck back together and now the power seems to be about 95% of what it was before all this started but it idles rough and just seems out of time or something. The only mod I am running is a Quadzilla box. I have run the truck with and without the box and it makes no difference. I would like to try the IH cam sensor but you guys said not to use with mods. Any help would be greatly apprecited.
With mine it ended up being the fuel pressure spring on the side of the side of the fuel filter housing the spring. Holder broke and the spring slid into the ret line you might pull it off and check for the spring and be careful abouþ shops they told me I had bad injectors and hpop and both were good. Keep posting here and you will get lots of support
1999 F550 7.3L
Thank you for your guys help. Im fairly handy at working on vehicles but I am not a mechanic. Can you tell me what a cct test is. I was affraid that the problem may be the injectors. Since I bought them I have heard nothing but bad stuff about pensocola. The place that I took my old injectors to be tested will sell me new factory injectors for $130/ea. Is this the best price out there for new injectors. So far it is the best that I can find. Also is there any chance that I could have done somehting wrong during installation to cause a problem.
Thank you for your guys help. Im fairly handy at working on vehicles but I am not a mechanic. Can you tell me what a cct test is. I was affraid that the problem may be the injectors. Since I bought them I have heard nothing but bad stuff about pensocola. The place that I took my old injectors to be tested will sell me new factory injectors for $130/ea. Is this the best price out there for new injectors. So far it is the best that I can find. Also is there any chance that I could have done somehting wrong during installation to cause a problem.
Another thing that I am curious about HP Oil pressure. My Quadzilla box displays the oil rail pressure. At idle it vairies from 380psi to 570psi. Suring driving it reaches 3500psi. The thing that i question is engine off key on it displays 30-50 psi and just jumps back and forth. Also at idle it will just rapidly jump between 380-570psi. Maybe this is normal. Not sure. I have a scanner and it keeps throwing an ICP code as well, but I think that the box could cause that. Would my rough idle be caused by this sensor, How could I test this sensor. I just dont want to start replacing every sensor on the truck not knowing if that it realy the problem.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
1999 F550 7.3L
Well I replaced the ICP sensor today and it made no difference. I also noticed today that the truck has a really strong exhaust smell the kind that will make your eyes burn. It does not smoke at all but it smells. It definetly seems like a fueling issue, but do not now where to go now. I just keep replacing parts and getting no results. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Well I replaced the ICP sensor today and it made no difference. I also noticed today that the truck has a really strong exhaust smell the kind that will make your eyes burn. It does not smoke at all but it smells. It definetly seems like a fueling issue, but do not now where to go now. I just keep replacing parts and getting no results. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
I'm having the same issue and actually been struggling with this for about 5 months. When I first start it the engine runs perfect. Once it gets up to operating temps it idled choppy, lopes and misses at low rpms
(1200-1500rpms). I have the A/e software so ran all the tests it failed a three of the injectors so I put all new Hybrid injectors in and still had the same issue.
I spent the last month checking compression, fuel pressure, wiring harness, UVCH, changed ICP & IPR,CPS, Ran buzz test. etc.... All passed. So I finally started to believe the CCT test I ran that told me that #6 & #8 failed the test for contribution/balance fault. The PERDELS on 6 & 8 were running 4% to 7%. Number 8 is a common problem that shows up with a CCT test and is not always correct. So I swapped the #6 injector with the # 4 injector to do a quantitative test and low and behold number 4 came up bad and number 6 & 8 were fine. The PERDELS on 6 & 8 went to o% and the PERDELS on #4 went to 5%. So I just sent that one injector back to be looked at even though I just put it in 1 1/2 months ago.
The injector Co. says sometimes they flow fine on the bench and just won't fire correctly in the truck. Something about internal leakby. I'll know some more next week and I'll post it up. Look at my post in this forum "I think my IPR is Bad" for the whole story.
I've had it to several dealers and supposed diesel shops who all seem to be parts replacers.
They all say the same thing. 7.3L tend to idle rough. This is a bunch of bull. My truck idled smooth as a baby's butt without the smallest hiccup for a 125,000 miles.
Good Luck:dunno:
(1200-1500rpms). I have the A/e software so ran all the tests it failed a three of the injectors so I put all new Hybrid injectors in and still had the same issue.
I spent the last month checking compression, fuel pressure, wiring harness, UVCH, changed ICP & IPR,CPS, Ran buzz test. etc.... All passed. So I finally started to believe the CCT test I ran that told me that #6 & #8 failed the test for contribution/balance fault. The PERDELS on 6 & 8 were running 4% to 7%. Number 8 is a common problem that shows up with a CCT test and is not always correct. So I swapped the #6 injector with the # 4 injector to do a quantitative test and low and behold number 4 came up bad and number 6 & 8 were fine. The PERDELS on 6 & 8 went to o% and the PERDELS on #4 went to 5%. So I just sent that one injector back to be looked at even though I just put it in 1 1/2 months ago.
The injector Co. says sometimes they flow fine on the bench and just won't fire correctly in the truck. Something about internal leakby. I'll know some more next week and I'll post it up. Look at my post in this forum "I think my IPR is Bad" for the whole story.
I've had it to several dealers and supposed diesel shops who all seem to be parts replacers.
They all say the same thing. 7.3L tend to idle rough. This is a bunch of bull. My truck idled smooth as a baby's butt without the smallest hiccup for a 125,000 miles.
Good Luck:dunno:
You guys should monitor your ICP pressures and IPR duty cycles to make sure the sensors are functioning properly. It also could be bad Injector O rings.
My issue started with the rough idle, then after monitoring with my A/E software, completeing compression checks and testing all of the different things that would cause this turned into the injector cups cracking and mixing diesel fuel into the coolant. I replaced my injectors, glow plugs, UVCH, IPR, ICP and it ended up still missing and failing the CCT tests on a few cylinders. I played around swapping injectors and doing cylinder Contribution Tests to figure out which injector was giving me the problem. The CCT test doesn't seem to be a qualitative test as it always failed two to three cylinders all the time. I had to swap the failed injectors with injectors that showed good to see if the issue followed the bad injector. It turned out that only one injector had issues with the fuel plates inside of it and a bad nozzle.
The CCT test seemed to fail the bad injector and the one that fired after pretty consistantly. Some time it would fail the cylinder that fired before and after the bad injector.
I got pretty good at pulling the valvecovers and pulling injectors etc... It's only a 2 to 4 hr project depending on how many inj. you have to fool with.
My issue started with the rough idle, then after monitoring with my A/E software, completeing compression checks and testing all of the different things that would cause this turned into the injector cups cracking and mixing diesel fuel into the coolant. I replaced my injectors, glow plugs, UVCH, IPR, ICP and it ended up still missing and failing the CCT tests on a few cylinders. I played around swapping injectors and doing cylinder Contribution Tests to figure out which injector was giving me the problem. The CCT test doesn't seem to be a qualitative test as it always failed two to three cylinders all the time. I had to swap the failed injectors with injectors that showed good to see if the issue followed the bad injector. It turned out that only one injector had issues with the fuel plates inside of it and a bad nozzle.
The CCT test seemed to fail the bad injector and the one that fired after pretty consistantly. Some time it would fail the cylinder that fired before and after the bad injector.
I got pretty good at pulling the valvecovers and pulling injectors etc... It's only a 2 to 4 hr project depending on how many inj. you have to fool with.
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