What year is the engine?


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it is a late style 05-06

 

and i just remembered, i broke the LPO sensor when i was putting it back together so i got a new switch from NAPA(Napa brand), could that be part of the issue? the switch possibly having a higher psi to get a reading?

 

Switch is basically just an idiot light. If you have over 5 psi of pressure the gauge will sweep.

Im assuming you’ve driven it for some distance to get the air out. If you’re having long starts then I’m betting that, like you stated, the machine shop left some oil galley plugs out.


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i have put about 500 kms on it since i got it running again,(read this part thoroughly) when i first got the truck back together 2 weeks ago, the engine shop forgot to put the plug in the hpo reservoir at the top of the block underneath the hpop so the truck wouldn't build any oil pressure at all, so he gave me a new plug to put in and compensated me for my time to repair it. i got it in after a few hours and i must say it was a PITA trying to do with the engine in, and as far as i could see with my mirror down in the block the other 2 plugs by the cam in the rear of the engine were in. so i put it back together and it runs after that but i am at the point i am at now with the hard start

Are the 2 small plugs in the front of the block beside the cam under the front cover used for holding in oil? is there a test i can do with air possibly to help further diagnose the lpo system? i cant seem to find much info on the lop system

Thanks for the quick replies on this, i really appreciate it!

 

if you can see this attached pic, not sure if it will work or not, i circled the plugs i am thinking may be a possibility

 

Update: I found part of the problem, I tested fuel pressure and i found it was only building 5-10psi i got it up to 20psi once if i turned the key off and back on as soon as the pump shut off and i should have 60psi with my blue spring mod. i plugged the return line off with a nail to see if it would build pressure or not, and i ran to shut the key off when it started climbing past 80PSI. at that point i knew it was a pressure relief issue instead of a pump issue. Anyway, when i pulled the return regulator apart i found a bad o-ring on the plug that holds the pressure in the bowl, changed that and got 60psi, awesome! So the truck started a lot better when i started it back up again.

However, i am still having a hard start cold, lpo gauge doesn't come up for 1-3 secs after it has started but after it is warm it starts instantly. any ideas for things i should check next?? I would like to thank LoxDiesel for his help and fast responses to help me!

 

The way DTR explained the low pressure oil in one of his videos is because of power demands throughout the system, the LPO sensor may not go on, even though there is enough pressure. He recommended seeing if the oil filter housing filled with oil as cranking. Since you're starting, I doubt its low pressure oil. I think it's a seal somewhere that doesn't like cold weather, but can only recommend the usual FICMv, ICP, IPR and if its high pressure oil related, air checking. Since it happens cold, should be tested cold otherwise the problem is not there and won't show up.

 

Let it sit overnight. Remove the oil filter the next day. Does it appear to be full?


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My dash oil pressure needle does not move unit the engine is started and running for a second or two.... '04 F-250 ( Early '04 )... The engine starts extremly quick. Especially cold.


Dan

 

I let the truck sit for about 14hrs and took the oil filter off and it wasn't dripping oil when i took it out, but i looked into the filter housing and the oil that was left in there was a lot lower than my anti-drain back valve almost nothing left so would this be an issue with one of the brass pieces with the rubber on them? i have it out and the rubbers appear to be fine.

Also i had the plastic piece the filter goes around off and i cranked the engine to see how long it took the oil to fill the reservoir(about 3 sec of cranking before the oil started to come in the reservoir but it filled at an acceptable rate once it got there) but after it filled i held the anti-drain back valve down and all the oil went down the the hole that pipe was in in the center. is that normal?

I have attached a pic of the filter housing with how much oil was in it when i took the filter out. i had already taken the bypass valves out before i thought to take the picture but i never lost any more oil from taking them out

 

:Update: this has been bugging me all week on i dove into it today to try to find a problem, i checked my lpop for damage and i couldn't find any damage so i took off the front cover to check the 2 oil rail plugs to make sure they were in place(which they were) and my front cover in the lpop part of the housing for scoring which there was none so now i am going to pull the hpop cover and check the back ones again as well as the o-rings on the hpop. Just keeping any followers up to date:banging::bdh:

 

Have you tested base oil pressure yet? There are a few ways to do it. There’s a parker test fitting on the oil cooler, or get one of those shiny aluminum oil filter caps with a port on top and hook a gauge up there.


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:update: I am still working on getting the fittings to test the lpo system but i bought a new lpo pump from ford and changed the front cover as mine had some scratches in the rear of the lpo pump and boom had instant lpo pressure and my filter housing stays full for over 12 hrs no problem now. My crank to start time has been well cut in half.

However, it is still kicking 3-4 times as it cranks before it starts. I have checked all over the forms and have not found anything on this, have you ever heard of this problem? i have good icp good ipr i have oil to the top of the threads of the icp sensor when i take it out so my oil rail is full good fuel pressure, i checked for bubbles in the fuel bowl and there was none so now i am stumped on what to test next, any ideas?

 

Put a 6.4 starter in it. If all those vitals are good then you must have a sync problem.


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You are right, i checked sync on my scangauge ll and it kicked twice before it had sync then it fired right up once it had sync. Would the slow response just be a crank/cam sensor starting to go? i have 2 sets of sensors 1 set came out of my old running engine and the other i have no idea of the history of and i am not sure which combination got put back into the engine. Is there a easy way of testing which one might be at fault or should i just try swaping them out to see if there is a difference?

Thanks again LoxDiesel! i never would have thought to check the sync, i just figured it started so it must have sync :doh:

 

This is gonna sound technical and might not make sense but here goes.
Starters produce RFI which stands for Radio Frequency Interference. The cam and crank sensors send signals to the pcm. Cam has a timing tab and crank sensor sends rpm signal AND crank position signal for timing. Sg2 only shows a sync. However in all actuality there are 2 separate syncs that need to happen before it will start. FICM Sync and Sync. Sync is based on Crank signal. FICM Sync is based on Cam signal.

Knowing all that the engine harness is ground circuit protected by the pcm the reduce RFI only on the cam and crank sensors. The FICM harness is also ground protected but only on the ground wire on the back of the intake.

Older starters draw more amps which produces more RFI causing intermittent hard starts. Probably fixed a half dozen trucks this past year with your same complaint by swapping starter. HAPPY NEW YEAR!


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So i swapped the starter out for the 6.4L gained about 100 rpm while cranking and has been starting like a champ for a few weeks now!

 

Glad you’re happy!


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