Do you have Sync (not FICM sync)? What is your ICPv KOEO and while cranking? I'd want to know fuel pressure too to rule that out. Also need FICM Lpower and fuel pulse width.

-jokester

 

Okay. I know I have ICPv on the Torque app. I think I can monitor FICM Lpower and fuel pulse width. Not sure about fuel pressure. I'll report back shortly.

 

Sensor voltage will tell you if the system is really making oil pressure -- good to check that before believing the pressure readings

Are those active codes? -- clear the codes, only need current

Your description suggests a fuel problem
Do the injectors click when you first key on?
Do you hear the fuel pump running? Does is sound strong and even? (no bubbles)
How much fuel in the tank?
Filter condition is?

 

Fuel pressure requires an add-on sending unit and gauge (or a manual gauge....which is hard to read when driving). Highly advisable to get one.

I still don't know why people put up with glow plug issues when troubleshooting - it just makes things harder. They should be fixed anyway - even if they are not contributing to the current no-start.....

 

Cam / Crank Sync: PID 2209cd​

Min Value: 0​

Max Value: 1​

Scale Factor: X1​

Unit Type:​

Equation {A:0}​

Unit header​

header: 7E0​

Fuel Injector Pulse Width​

Short Name: FIPW​

PID: 221410​

Units: ms​

Max/Min: 6.0/0.0​

Equation: ((A*256+B)*.008​

Injector Control Pressure Voltage​

Short Name: ICP v​

PID: 2216AD​

Units: volts​

Max/Min: 5 (max) 0 (min)​

Equation: (((A*256)+B)*(72/10000))/1000​

header: 7E0​

 

More info:

ICP voltage KOEO 0.2, 1.4 when cranking
FICM Logic Power KOEO 12.0, 9.5 when cranking
Fuel pulse width KOEO 0.0, 1600-1700 when cranking.

To answer Hydro's questions:
Do the injectors click when you first key on? YES
Do you hear the fuel pump running? Does is sound strong and even? (no bubbles). DON"T KNOW, WILL HAVE TO CHECK. NOT SURE WHERE TO LISTEN TO BE HONEST. ON TOP THE ENGINE?
How much fuel in the tank? 1/4 TANK
Filter condition is? I WOULD ASSUME SATISFACTORY - DUE TO BE CHANGED AT NEXT OIL CHANGE WHICH IS COMING UP.

CODES: I cleared the codes and the Crankshaft (P0336), Camshaft (P0341) and Water in Fuel (P2269) did not reappear (yet).

bismic - I agree on the glow plugs. I did not realize I have so many out until I pulled the codes.

 

As far as glow plugs go, the engine SHOULD start on a warm day if the only issue is glow plugs. Trouble is, it takes more cranking and if you are low on cranking rpms (weak starter), or have some reduced compression, or the high pressure oil pressure is marginal, it can really make it hard to start.

Unfortunately we don't always get a CEL with glow plug problems.

Edit -

The fuel pulse width and ICP volts look good.
9.5 volts for logic power when cranking is too low, but it SHOULD start with that.

Make sure your batteries stay charged up and that cranking rpms are 150+ for better chance at starting.

 

After reading a bit more carefully, that 1/4 tank may be an issue. Adding on to Hydro's good post, you can also remove the secondary fuel filter cap and remove the filter. Then suck out any standing diesel. Then turn the key on and time how long it takes to fill the empty filter bowl. It should be quick, so it is a 2 person job and the one at the key needs to be ready to turn it off quickly. Watch for bubbles as the filter bowl fills.

 

The 1/4 tank may cause the problem if the pickup foot is gone -- mine is for sure -- putting in a bottom sump when I get time
The fuel pump in in the HFCM -- under the drivers door -- you have 20 seconds at key on to listen

With the symptoms you described -- I would bet the fuel pressure is low
plugged filters or the pickup foot at 1/4 tank

 

Ok then. I will listen to the fuel pump and see how long it takes to fill the empty fuel bowl. THEN, I will fill it up with fuel and attempt to start. I will report back my findings.

I did have the fuel pick-up replaced years ago. I could hear something banging around every time i went over a big bump but there was nothing in the bed of the truck! Anyway, a shop repaired it for me, but ever since it seems like I went from a usable 28-29 gallon tank to a usable 24-25 gallon tank.

 

With the harpoon mods and a sump, you can have a 31 usable gallon tank.

 

UPDATE:

Didn't get home until pretty late last night . I still managed to try and listen for the fuel pump. Honestly, I don't hear anything really. I hear the injectors clatter and about every 2nd or 3rd turn of the key I hear something run for about 15-20 seconds. But its not coming from under the drivers door, near the fuel filter housing. Is the fuel pump & filter housing all the same unit?

I was alone so I was not able to check how fast the fuel bowl filled.

In any event, I did haul fuel cans to the station and put 20 gallons of diesel in the tank. I cycled the key a few times and tried to start the truck but it didn't. I cranked it maybe 10 times, 5-10 seconds each. At first it just cranked, no sputter. The more I cranked it the more it sounded like it wanted to start, like is was finally getting fuel (just barely sputtering really). I could hear the starter revs going down so I just stopped for the night as I was whipped.

I should add that the batteries have been on a charger this whole time so when I do crank, the revs are up there.

At this point I'm still on board with the out of fuel theory. Perhaps I have too much air introduced in to the system or the fuel pump is out. How can I remove or cycle things to remove any air in the system? I think i will pull the second filter and fill the bowl to confirm the pump is even pumping. If pumping, re-install the filter and cycle the key several times then try and start it.

EDIT: I pulled the codes again and the crankshaft & camshaft sensor codes have not re-appeared.

 

Yes the pump is in the filter housing under the truck -- should be pretty easy to hear it running
turn the key and shut the door (roll the window down, so the next thing on here is not "I locked myself out") -- stick your head under -- got 20 seconds to listen

You can look thru the crack at the rear of the hood and see the fuel filter, kind of -- and still reach the key
the upper filter should fill pretty quick, 2-4 seconds
you can leave the key on the whole 20 seconds if you dont mind making a mess

If the pump is any good, the air will be pushed out in the first couple of key cycles

 

Does the fuel pump run for 20 seconds every time the key is cycled off/on?

 

Yes -- then runs continuously after the engine starts

 

Okay. Thanks for the info. I will investigate tonight and report back. Thanks for all the help so far guys!!!!!

 

If it's not your fuel pump your hearing, it might be the vacuum pump. It's under the hood passenger side.

 

That must be what I am hearing up to this point. I'm laying on the ground inches from the fuel pump and I only hear something coming from what sound like under the hood passenger side. As stated, I will listen again for the fuel pump and do the fuel bowl exercise to confirm its pumping.

 

The vacuum pump should only run till the pressure is good, then turn off -- you could disconnect the harness so it does not run for the time

The black plastic, opposite the filter cap is the pump motor, you should be able to feel the motor running

Both '06 trucks I have had could hear the pump from the driver seat with the door closed -- after the dinger stopped and the injectors got done

 

UPDATE: Fuel pump problem.

What I was hearing before was for sure the vacuum pump, so I unplugged it. Cycled the key several times and only heard the injector clatter, never heard the fuel pump. I removed the secondary fuel filter. There was probably 1/2" of fuel in the bowl. I turned the key on and went around to get under the hood and the fuel level in the bowl didn't move. Next, I went under the truck and jiggled the 3 connectors at the fuel pump housing and cycled the key again and got nothing. SO, I assume a bad fuel pump.

On a side note: I did notice however, when I pushed the lower right connector (which I believe is the water in fuel sensor) fuel would nearly stream out of the connector.

Any reason not to stick with a motorcraft fuel pump? Any special tools needed to perform the swap?

 

Sources for the pump by itself:

Racor pfp58054 fuel pump assembly - parfit

FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY - PARFIT Ford / Navistar part number 6C32-9C407-AA primarily used on 6.0L Power Stroke

www.racorstore.com

[PFP58054]Racor 2003-07 Ford 6.0L Powerstroke diesel replacement fuel pump

[PFP58054]Racor 2003-07 Ford 6.0L Powerstroke diesel replacement fuel pump

www.dieselfiltersonline.com

At dieselfiltersonline.com, you can get free shipping for $250, so buy enough filters to get to $250 and you can save some bucks.

That said, the HFCM contains some components that wear out so it might be worth your while to just buy a new HFCM. Sounds like you at least need a WIF sensor (in addition to the pump), and maybe a pigtail.

 

Thanks for the links. I think I will just swap the entire HFCM as I have owned the truck since 50K miles and never changed the HFCM out, or serviced it for that matter. Besides, I can get one today and get the truck back on the road.

You mention pigtail. Do you have a link for the pigtail or are you suggesting to just replace the connector (cut wires & solder) at the WIF sensor?

 

So, now onto why the vacuum pump is running -- it should only run for like 30 seconds and turn off -- then only come back on if you mess with the heater controls

 

Maybe I didn't describe correctly. The vacuum pump only runs for the 20 or so seconds and then cuts off, as it should.

 

WIF pigtail - WPT-1116 (AU2Z-14S411-BJA)

Fuel pump connector / fuel pump harness - includes the fuel pump pigtail: 6C3Z-9F759-A

HFCM pump and Manifold (cover). This is the entire HFCM, with WIF sensor AND harness: 6C3Z-9G282-C

 

PROBLEM SOLVED:

A new HFCM solved my problem. Installation was not too bad either. I have 4WD so the drive shaft was in the way a bit. However, I left the drive shaft in place and managed just fine. I also changed the wire harness while I was at it. Once installed, I pulled the secondary filter to evacuate as much air as I could, then re-installed. After several cranks it started and now runs just fine.

I did notice that the HFCM (and harness) I removed had a third plug on it. The replacement only had two plugs on it. Working fine so far. An added bonus is I no longer get the WIF warning!

A big thanks to everyone who helped guide me!!! I'm always appreciative of the knowledge on this site and I try and contribute when I'm able.

Ryan

 

Glad you got the truck fixed -- that "extra" plug is a fuel heater, no longer used