So assuming it was running fine before the egr delete and everything else. Did you by chance mess with your MAP hose from the intake mani to MAP sensor? What makes you suspect it's a fueling issue? Also, I would double check my exhaust up pipes to turbo and make sure the flanges are seated correctly. Also, check intercooler hoses and connections.

 

So I did the EGR delete and CAT/Muffler delete this past summer. I discovered an exhaust leak about 2&1/2 months ago and I re-seated my turbo and each up-pipe and adjusted everything properly. I also replaced my MAP sensor and vacuum hose in the process. I ordered the entire stage 3 solution from sinister diesel including the EGR delete and blue spring kit. I ordered ARP head studs as well. However, Im in college and I don't have a lot of time to work on my truck but after I readjusted my up-pipes and seated them correctly/replaced the MAP sensor, my truck was running beautifully. My only reasoning for installing the blue spring kit is because I am trying to keep her as healthy as possible until I have time to stud it and throw in the upgraded oil cooler. And i happened to have some free time the past few days to do it. So Im almost certain I am dealing with a fuel problem considering Ive only worked on the fuel system over the past few days. I just cant understand why it would be running like this and it has me wondering if I messed up an injector by allowing air into the fuel or not having the proper PSI in the fuel system. I couldn't imagine that would be the case but I am stumped.

 

You should have installed a fuel pressure gauge first to see if you needed a new spring kit, and certainly not something from Sinister.

This comment makes no sense - " did every trick in the book even as far as keep the plastic O-ring on the plunger holder(not sure what that part is called)."

With the early trucks, the regulators had a replaceable seat, which actually was a good thing. However, there is a small o-ring on the inside face that should fit onto it without much of an issue falling off. So I'm having a hard time understanding what was so hard.

Vid dropped.


.... and now it's back.

 

So the O-ring I was referring to was the one that goes on the seat. Seat would have been the part I couldn't think of. However, when I replaced it the first time I replaced the original plastic o-ring on the seat with the new seat and new rubber o-ring. In summation, I completely replaced everything that came with the new regulator and install kit. I also replaced fuel filters. Nothing was hard about the install, it simply did not work. And gave my truck the symptoms I listed. I read on several forums and watched several videos where guys would take the original plastic o-ring and install it on the new seat. The reason I mentioned this in my post is because that seat was the only part of the install that didnt seem to fit quite right with the rubber o-ring. So I pulled it, put the old one on and it fit perfect. However, the truck still isn't running right. Ive put the OEM regulator and OEM everything back on the truck to try and pin point my issues but its still not running right with original parts.

 

Whew, that vid was painful to watch -- so many things done wrong

he never replaced the o-ring on the backside of the regulator seat -- that would be the black one in Jacks picture
and the list goes on

the vid shows the pressure test port pretty well, it is just to the leaf of the blue spring
Takes a metric adapter: Fuel pressure 6.0 M12x1.5MM adapter

I suggest installing a permanent gauge in this port
can be either an electric sensor gauge or a mechanical gauge
you can use an oil pressure gauge from the auto parts store, for a cheap alternative

this will tell you the health of your fuel system and alert to when the filter needs changed

 

Whew, that vid was painful to watch -- so many things done wrong

he never replaced the o-ring on the backside of the regulator seat -- that would be the black one in Jacks picture
and the list goes on

the vid shows the pressure test port pretty well, it is just to the left of the blue spring
Takes a metric adapter: Fuel pressure 6.0 M12x1.5MM adapter

I suggest installing a permanent gauge in this port
can be either an electric sensor gauge or a mechanical gauge
you can use an oil pressure gauge from the auto parts store, for a cheap alternative

this will tell you the health of your fuel system and alert to when the filter needs changed

I agree! But it shows the parts and locations fairly well (except for that o-ring you mentioned)

He didn't seem to lubricate the new o-rings either ..... and I would always recommend a backup wrench on that one fuel line (which appeared to be the source of his leak to begin with).

 

I didn't watch the video, I jumped through to see if there were good examples for showing the seat. Most videos show the new style without a replaceable seat.

I'll edit it out.

 

@TooManyToys Dont take the vid out, it does show the operation

I was just on my second cup of coffee, and was shouting while watching the vid -- I may have been a little grumpy
the dude seemed sincere in his efforts, just ignorant of the job

 

Agree again - leave it in. With the comments in this thread, it is helpful to the owners of the early engines to see it clearly.

No pain, no gain.

 

It's back.

Most guys also don't replace the bleed orifice or, if they do, the o-ring behind it.

 

He broke the bleed orifice by stuffing that allen wrench behind the edge -- then finally pushed it out from inside the fuel bowl, as should have been done in the first place

actually the vid while it shows some parts done OK, could be used to show what not to do

I understand that all of us has been in this position when we first started, and maybe I am too critical of good practice methods
the job was successfully completed, and he got lucky

OK, I need to stop ranting for a while
maybe the OP in this thread will get his problem sorted out

 

Changing from the fuel system to another topic.....

The OP mentions installing an upgraded oil cooler in the future. Hopefully he/she doesn't get THAT from Sinister!

 

Do you get air bubbles when filling the secondary fuel filter bowl (empty the fuel filter bowl and turn the key on without cranking - note it should fill quickly)?

 

I have not done the bubble test. That was going to be my next step. I'm get a pretty even crank so I couldn't Imagine it would be anything internal such as an injector.

Im going to bubble test it and see what I find and I'll update.

Thank you.

 

The test I described is not testing injectors for leaking combustion gas ..... instead it is testing to see if air is getting into the fuel system from the supply side of the fuel system (tank, filter, pump).

The injector bubble test is a cranking test with a full secondary fuel bowl and the fuel pump disabled .....

 

The test I described is not testing injectors for leaking combustion gas ..... instead it is testing to see if air is getting into the fuel system from the supply side of the fuel system (tank, filter, pump).

The injector bubble test is a cranking test with the fuel pump disabled .....

Ok thank you for clarifying that.

I was slightly confused as I've seen both ways.

I appreciate the information!

 

Two different test, both need to be done but start as Bismic mentioned to see if you get good fuel from the pump