I believe that the first thing I would do is send the instrument Cluster off to CircuitBoardMedics for repair. Then get the laptop (full) version of ForScan with a good OBDII adapter.

 

I looked at circuit medics last night, but I don’t know if the cluster is bad or if I have lost data link? I thought about starting to go through and check for a direct short somewhere… would forscan show me any of those things?

 

ForScan will give you codes, but then you would have to do the troubleshooting to identify the source of the codes - and that could be electrical, electronic (ie a control module), or a communication network issue.

 

ForScan will give you codes, but then you would have to do the troubleshooting to identify the source of the codes - and that could be electrical, electronic (ie a control module), or an communication network issue.

Well, I have ALL of the schematics for the truck it’s just getting into and tracing everything. I’m scared I’ve lost data link and that it’s not actually showing me all of the codes. I’ve got a chore ahead of me I’m afraid

 

Electrical issues are a pain, but if you lose module communication, it just gets a lot tougher! Seems to me that you have enough indication of IC issues that you would likely benefit from sending it in - AS A START.

 

Many times the issue with a horn going off without depressing the steering wheel switch is a worn out switch - which needs replacement. There are youtube videos on this.

 

As already stated - ForScan will give you specific PCM data as long as you have communication to/through the OBDII port (Data Link Connector, DLC). ForSCan will also scan all control modules and give you a code for a fault if there are issues.

 

I thought about with the horn, it could possibly be either the slider plate or a clock spring.. but with the other issues going on, I was afraid it was linked to the other issues. Is it better to just send your ic in for repair or do a swap? I thought about doing a swap for an LED one. But would it read the correct mileage? Problem is I can’t get the exact mileage off mine at the moment, because it isn’t updating.

 

As I said - I would send it in. CircuitBoardMedics can even upgrade to LED's ....... for $30 or so.

Then you don't have to worry about mileage (odometer) or compatibility.

 

I’m ordering the OBD2-USB Cable forscan recommends and then I’ll get forscan on it tomorrow to check all the modules. Once I get the extra money I’ll send off the cluster for repair and update!

 

The first thing i'd do is pull my batteries and have them load tested. Good system voltage is the backbone of having this truck run correctly. If your batteries are shotty, you will chase your tail trying to figure out all the issues. This will also give your truck a chance to reset itself while the batteries are out.

Next thing i'd do is read all DTC's & write them down - then clear them to see what sticks.

-jokester

 

Tomorrow my cable will be here to get hook to my computer, and in the morning I’ll pull the batteries and get them tested. Thank you for all the information.

 

If the shop did what they said they did, they were just guessing and throwing parts at it hoping that replacing everything they could would fix it. I agree on starting with a refurbished cluster since they are known issues.

 

I am going to contact cbm in the morning to discuss the cluster, and I agree to a point. Thanks for all the help!

 

I had same sort of problems last year. FORSCAN show crank sensor and 5,7 injectors
Replaced injectors and still se no start. Took batteries to get load tested and 2 battery had a short in it. Replaced batteries and fire right up. Crank sensor was never replaced and codes went Away. Old injectors were tested and were ok so I wasted some money. Definitely have batteries load tested 1st. I also removed harness and ohms tested for shorts. Crank sensor with show up if long hard cranking has been done. Just my 2 cents. Good luck.

 

This sounds like main brain computers are bad or something... for all this to be effected its a central issue for sure.

 

Update: on Monday after leaving my house, it made it 1/4 mile down the road and quit pulling, at which point it never would go back into a gear. Had it towed to my preferred shop down the road and they are going to get it in on Monday. He believes that there is probably a communication issue and something didn’t get programmed right when everything got replaced. I’ll update again as soon as I find a source of issues. Still considering getting the cluster sent off in a few weeks.

I thought about doing an atlas 40 on it but was told with a minor ecm tune that I could unlock what the truck was really capable of. I don’t want it turned up hot just to run right. Anything else y’all can think of to make it a great truck let me know.

 

Guessing your batteries tested good then?

-jokester

 

I’m not even going to lie to you, I never got to get them load tested.

I went by the shop today to check and see if there were any updates and when he put a scan tool on it the only thing it showed was glow plugs. He was working on getting it into a bay.

 

Well, there ya go..

 

so was this revisited? logically, i dont think bad injectors would put fuel in the oil. also does the shop warranty their work? for example, my shop has a 24month guarantee on all parts and labor completed by them
also i think its weird they dont list the labor hours on your receipt.

ill also recommend CBM. fixed mine recently and quick turnaround. but i dont think the cluster is a pressing issue as much as an obd scanner and forscan

 

so was this revisited? logically, i dont think bad injectors would put fuel in the oil. also does the shop warranty their work? for example, my shop has a 24month guarantee on all parts and labor completed by them
also i think its weird they dont list the labor hours on your receipt.
View attachment 799502

ill also recommend CBM. fixed mine recently and quick turnaround. but i dont think the cluster is a pressing issue as much as an obd scanner and forscan

I honestly would prefer to not have to use the shop that had it if possible. The truck had been there for almost 2 years with previous owner unable to get the truck back and I went and got it for them to buy it.

also for everyone else, I have been tirelessly turning the gears in my head trying to think of the possible root cause of this issue since it was not giving ANY of these problems prior to going to this shop.

I agree the batteries could not be holding load, and I am going to bring that up to the current mechanic in the morning…. But I’m wondering if when the previous guy flashed the ecm if he gave it a bad flash. If I’m understanding correctly and correct me if I’m wrong but the ECM ECU and PCM are the same module correct? So he says the ecm is bad and confirms it with “flashing it” and either doesn’t program the new one correctly or the flash doesn’t take right etc… could that be a leading source of the issues? Or if he put a faulty ecm on it?

Im stepping out on a limb on this one but I’ve heard crazier theories with things!

Also, I’m assuming the truck still has the glow plugs but I noticed when I turn the key on the indicator for it doesn’t show up on the dash (but did when doing the cluster dignostic on board test) and when I was checking all the fuses the one for the glow plugs was not in… I did not replace that for fear of it being purposely pulled for a reason.

 

Bad injectors can and do frequently cause fuel dilution of the oil.

 

Yessir, they sure can! A leaking injector or a cracked injector tip can/will most certainly put fuel in the oil. If left long enough without noticing, it can even start causing hard/no-starts due to the thinning of the oil, making it harder to build HPO to fire the injectors.

OP - GET THOSE BATTERIES LOAD TESTED BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING ELSE. DON'T CHASE YOUR OWN TAIL OVER SOMETHING SO SIMPLE TO OVERLOOK!!

A good example...

https://www.powerstroke.org/threads/no-crank-no-start-lots-of-codes.1402475/#post-16608084

-jokester

 

It has been suggested for you to load test the batteries. You didn't do that. That is something that EVERY 6.0L owner should be ready and willing to do (even doing it on a preventative maintenance SCHEDULE is a good idea).

You said you were going to contact CBM to discuss "possibilities". You didn't do that (unless I missed something).

We haven't seen any diagnosis information from ForScan.

I am not trying to be confrontational, but I can't help asking: What was your intent in starting the thread?

 

Bismic, I don’t think you’re being confrontational AT ALL.

also I’d like to note I’ve read back through some threads where you, hydro, and jokester ran through some CRAZY issues so I have a ton of respect for you guys.

Im brand new to the 6.0 world and I’ll never be scared to admit I am learning on the fly to the many issues you can have along with remedy’s.

To answer your question, I got the truck on Friday and started this thread on Sunday morning. I did not have a way to load test the batteries on Sunday and was going to do that once I got to work on Monday (my job is very flexible where I could do that). I also ordered the OBD cable that was recommended on the forscan website off of Amazon on Sunday with it being shipped next day and was going to have someone take me by the house to grab it so I could put my computer on it and check everything through that. I live about 5 minutes from work, and never once thought I couldn’t at least get it to the shop where I could mess with it, but low and behold it proved me wrong and as I left the house and got 1/4 mile down the road it did the tow haul mode coming on and it quit pulling and wouldn’t ever do anything else. At that point sitting on the side of the road, I just decided to have it towed to the shop where it has been at since. Since it’s been at the shop I haven’t contacted cbm because it doesn’t do me good to arrange to send it off when I don’t physically have access to it at the moment. No smart assedness intended here either. So I’ve got the obd cable to be able to use forscan in the future, but never the less I’m still rummaging ideas through my head about potential causes that could possibly NOT been related to what was suggested. I still feel possibly that the previous mechanic was to blame for untold reasons. The guy who has it now is a wonderful mechanic on 6.0 6.4 and 6.7, which is why it’s a hurry up and wait situation. His lot is slap full and I understand I’m not any more special than anyone else. Sorry if it seems I didn’t take your advice seriously because I didn’t mean any disrespect. The reason I started this thread was to learn and communicate with people who are a lot more versed on these trucks than I’ll probably EVER be. None the less I have picked up VERY valuable knowledge through endless reading while I wait.

 

Thank you for that response. I was just looking back at this thread being 11 days old (the 19th).

As far as CBM goes - often times they can give some applicable advice over the phone without expecting a cluster to ever be shipped to them. They really have a good reputation as being very helpful to people. They will tell you if they do not think it is a cluster issue.

The battery thing - well, you just need to get in a position where you can charge and load test each battery individually. It might just save the cost of a FICM repair one of these days. Good system voltage is very important.

I certainly understand the fact that now that it is at a shop, it is in their hands and on their schedule!

 

A lot of extra money will waisted on top of new batteries cost. Just take the to autozone or reputable place to have load tested. Take it from my bad experience. 🫣

 

I now have the truck in my possession and have forscan running. If any of you are available I have some questions about what I am seeing. Particularly how to interpret some the tests. Or what to test. New Cluster will be here Monday, and I know I don’t have communication with the cluster.

 

Current Codes - KOEO -

TCM- None
PCM- P0460-60
P0649-60
P1000-60
OBDii- None
PAM- C1742
RCM- None
GEM- P1876
P1832

this is after saving a log of initial codes and resetting them and this is what I get.

 

KOER Diagnostic Tests show
PCM- P2263

TCM- P1780

Glow Plug
PCM- P0671
P0673
P0675
P0677

I have not run anymore test without instruction. I was just playing around with the PNP pid and noticed in park it shows neutral, reverse shows drive, neutral shows neutral, drive shows drive and the individual gears show drive.

The Gear commanded when in drive just shows 3 and doesn’t change when shifting through the individuals reverse shows 1

Transmission Range all read correctly

I don’t know what all I can test or how to read them so any advice at the moment would be greatly appreciated.

 

First thing to do is to individually charge the batteries and individually have them load tested. Low voltage causes quite a few "odd behaviors".

P0460 can be an instrument cluster issue as it relates to the expected fuel tank level readings. So can the code for the cruise control light - P0649, which can just be a light bulb issue or a circuit issue.

The glow plug codes are all on the passenger side, so that could easily be a harness or the green connector isn't plugged in properly. You may need to do some continuity testing on the passenger glow plug harness itself if the connector is in good shape and properly plugged in. It is even possible that you have a GPCM (Glow Plug Control Module) issue, but IMO it is a distant second to the harness. Sometimes glow plug system issues can drag down PCM voltage and cause odd codes and behaviors.

Since ForScan is reading the PCM data, you clearly have the module communication functions operating adequately as far as the PCM is concerned anyway.

TBH I am not sure what to think about the TCM code P1780. Hopefully others can get you pointed in the right direction on that.

For now, I think you can ignore P1876 and P1832 codes.

C1742 is probably a backup sensor issue and probably not related to the other (more important) issues.

 

I am going to take and have the batteries charged and load tested in the morning.
So does anything I’ve explained so far give reason as to why the transmission isn’t either going into gear or pulling?