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2004.5 Ford F250 6.0L viper 5906v install. "HELP NEEDED"

4.8K views 27 replies 8 participants last post by  Hydro  
#1 ·
Hi, I'm trying to install my 5906v viper into my deisel, I have figured out over 3days how to get the alarm system to lock an unlock the truck. Hood pin doesn't seem to work..I have grounded out the activation input, but when I arme the truck and open the hood from half shut position the pin makes contact but doesnt set truck off.

R/s doesnt work at all even with the ebrake wire splice connector. I ended up just removing the 10pin harness as I just cant figure out how to get it to work.

Does anyone have experience with the viper 5906v??

Kinda in a pinch and want the truck to be armed 100% with supplied products..if someone knows wire for wire, to help with safety connections an r/s wire connections, please help. Most online post dont have all the correct information.

I would bring it to someone but money is tight and I'm Mechanical inclined so I can figure it out, just need a helping hand.

I read there is suppose to be a pulse to the activation input but how to I achieve that at ground?

How do you tell the viper it's an automatic trans too?
 
#3 ·
They are want you to have them "professionally installed" so instruction is difficult to find
no way I am gonna have some hack fiddling with my wiring harness

Last I looked they were all back ordered, guess I will look into an alarm / starter again -- really miss the remote start on my old truck
 
owns 2006 Ford F250 Lariat FX4
#4 · (Edited)
ZMANN, I have looked up my year truck on there site, and the alarm system pictorial. I have hooked up the wires as I thought I needed and no output to truck and parking lights blink 7, my hood pin is disengaged, ebrake has contact "grounded", I dont know how to to tell it, it's an auto tranny, I have no toggle switch, no connection on the viper for it.

My activation is grounded with stater and ignition from the 24 pin.
 
#5 ·
The remote start won't work if you don't get the hood pin sorted. The hood being up, disables the remote start.
There should be programming instructions for the system. You need to make sure it's set up properly.
Can you arm the alarm at all?

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#7 ·
6riders, truck will lock and arm. Have shock sensor for back up installed. This pin situation..yes haha is confusing, I've just blew tried to applied activation input too my lock side of my lock motor to give two pulses and it didnt recognize anything, same "remote start not available" on the led remote.

My 1pin is removed at this time by the way as I gave up and just focused on security but the pi. Issue came out.

Does the 24 pin require to work this 1-2pulse to ground?? And that's why my pin wont work?
 
#8 ·
I don't have a wiring diagram for that alarm.
This is what comes to mind.... The foot brake wire is not correct, the hood pin is not correct or the ignition wires under the column aren't correct.

From what I know, if the hood pin isn't in the "closed" position, the remote start won't work. Try holding that plunger down, setting the alarm and the release it. See what happens.

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#9 ·
just temporarily disconnect the hood pin it will not be grounded then and would not interrupt the rs

while the 12v dot com does have good wiring references I was suggesting you actually post your question over there

when I had my Viper RS installed by the largest Auto stereo retailer in the area they took forever and had to call dei and get a few extra things .. that was a 5701 i think ,, point being I was glad I did not mess with it until they were done
and then it had a warranty , unlike the DIY your doing it will be voided
 
#13 ·
Oh no dont do that.
The highligts are me trying to understand something forgot i had saved document that way .
I just wanted to post the manual incase you were in need of it.

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#14 ·
It took me a fee days to install mine. I did pay attention to details when wiring and wrapping up everything. It's not easy to see my install w/o removing the cjb and dash panel. The only problem I had was the door light switch, which I ended up going a different route than "normal" to get it wired up.

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#15 ·
So to all, I got the hood pin to work. I ended up doing a continuity test on the wire as I used the wires from the dealer through the firewall. Verified I had a good wire up to the 24pin supplied gray wire.

I got froggy and with the other end of the test wire to the spliced connection, I counted out on the 24pin the location when it connects to the controller and grounded out the pin from the hood pin wire, reconnected the 24pin harness.

I popped the hood, held the pin down and triggered the alarm and released it went off finally!

So I may have a bad/strong ground and will redirect the main ground wire to controller to the neg on the battery. Instructions say put to chassis ground..

Security works but still not enough information to hook up remote start.

Hope someone reads this and can provide a step by step to what they have done, or even if they had someone else installed it or payed for it, hook me up with some pic of the controller and what/where wires go!

Thanks everyone for you help an opinion to try to get to a resolved solution.
 
#18 ·
The hood switch grounds when the plunger is not depressed -- one purpose of the switch is to keep the auto start from functioning with the hood open -- the other is to set the alarm off when the alarm is armed.
 
owns 2006 Ford F250 Lariat FX4
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#19 ·
I don't mean to derail things. I didn't wire mine up it came on the excursion when I bought it 10 years or so ago. The solder connections were good but everything wrapped half assed in a sticky goo of electrical tape. What a mess that was. Not sure why the design to kill remote start with hood open but mine isn't wired that way and I prefer it. It'll still set off the alarm when the hood pops but I can and do start remote start while working under the hood. It's handy when doing leak checks and stuff.
 
#20 ·
"Always the chance of the perfect storm htting "

it is really better to have the pin switch wired right and clip an alligator clamp to the fender that you can use to hold the pin down when u want to use the remote with the hood open



I use my remote start with the hood up all the time to check trans fluid at the station
 
#21 ·
Hey there ya'll I read your post..if you are able to take the 4 easy screws and 4 bolts to get under the dash ( if that's were your module is) and are able to snap some photos to make life easier to show me what ya'll got done so I can install my R/S..that would be super awesome.
 
#24 · (Edited)
JHerb92: I have been installing remote starts for over 16+ years and have done probably around 10,000 cars/trucks. My first question for you is this. After you completed the wiring of the system into your truck, did you program the remote start module? There are several settings that need to be programmed after you install it so the system knows how to react properly. Reason I am asking this, is if the lights flash 7 times, that is not an issue on the hood pin. That means the system is setup for a manual transmission and there is a procedure to follow in order for a manual transmission vehicle to remotely start. So I would say your issue is a programming and not hood pin related. Hopefully this helps

P.S. I installed the same system on my 07’
 
#25 ·
Wc9550, yes I have the viper 5906v installed correctly now, truck will R/S and lock, hood pin is good. The only thing I may change is the door input, have to wait 30sec for the dome light to lose 12v to lock the truck without it triggering open door.

Yes I programmed the module to what I required, may have to do a couple tweaks but it works fine.

I appreciate your your input.
 
#26 ·
JHerb92, I’m glad your remote start is functioning correctly now. As for your door triggers, these trucks kind of suck. There are 2 ways they are done. They are either a negative trigger when each door opens (this is very easy to wire up as all you need is 4 diodes to keep each door separated when tying into them for the alarm). The other way is, they are a negative normally closed circuit. They then go to an open circuit when the door opens. You would need 4 relays to relay isolate each door to the alarm OR you would need 4 diodes, cut each trigger wire, diode isolate each wire to the BCM and then you’ll need a resistor as well to go to the alarm. Personally when I did my truck, I tied into the dome supervision (on for 30 seconds after doors close) and the system still functions properly after the dome lights turn off. Hope this helps
 
#28 ·
Easiest place to tie in on these trucks, would be at the door switch inputs to the VSM -- place the 4 diodes there to the door sense wire on the alarm module
 
owns 2006 Ford F250 Lariat FX4