Here’s what I have, 1995 F250 Power Stroke 7.3, 2 wheel drive 5spd manual trans. Long bed standard cab. Dead stock 150000 miles on it. About a month ago the truck started idling rough at stop signs, not all of the time but once in a while. Then it became hard to start. The hard starting gradually got worse. Over the period of a couple of weeks maybe till it would not start at all. That’s where we are now. The fuel filter was replaced about 3 months ago, it ran fine for weeks after it was changed out. The check engine light has never turned on. The glow plug light works and glow plug solenoid works. The engine will turn over fine but will not fire at all.

Here’s what I have done: tested fuel presure at regulator while cranking it jumped every second 15,30,45,50, never went above 50. tested alternator, tested batteries, cleaned all battery connections, replaced camshaft position sensor, checked fuel filter (filter clean bowl full of fuel), check all fuses.

Another strange thing about this truck, for years when you first start up the engine the amp meter in the dash will read only about a quarter of normal, at night lights will be dim too. Then after about 60 to 90 seconds suddenly it will jump up to where it is supposed to be and then no trouble till next time. While the amps are in this reduced state if I am hooked up to the trailer and step on the brakes or use the turn signals it will kill the engine. I guess it is just drawing too much current. So I always start it then wait for the amps. We took the alternator to 3 auto store for testing all said it is fine. Don’t know if this could have anything to do with it but thought I’d throw it in. I would greatly appreciate any help I can get Thanks.

I'm no tech, but I'd say that those are two separate problems and i dont think they have anything to do with each other..

For your idling and rough start problem, I'd check the ICP (injection control pressure) Sensor, or put a set of o-rings on the IPR (injection pressure regulator)

I'm sure a tech will chime in though to help you out :thumb:

 

Wow that is one fast response, Thankyou. How would you test the ICP or is that an item that you would just replace (inexpensive)?

 

I'm not sure how much they cost, but I dont know you would check it either...If i remember right, if you unlpug it and the truck runs the same, it is bad....dont take that to the bank though.

i dont know about testing it, because i havent had any problems with mine yet

 

I've had many alts test good on their "testers" that were actually bad. Just FYI.

 

Yes I am still suspect of the Alt but I tend to agree that I probably have two separate problems.

 

Did they do a load test on the batteries?

 

Yes they checked out good according them (autoparts store) batteries are fairly new

 

just for kicks I unplugged it. Didn't help. I just called Ford dealer $176.50 and would have to order it. It doesn't seem like that could possibly be right. It's no bigger than a spark plug. Must be gold. I'll check around and wait for some more help
Thanks

 

It's a pressure transducer. They are always expensive for some reason. Unplugging it should have changed the idle....

 

So if unplugging the ICP should just change the idle if the truck ran..... then it should not be the culprit that is preventing it from running at all. Is my reasoning flawed?

 

Not positive but I would say no. When you unplug it and it's working then the truck should go into "limp mode" which would let it still run just not 100%....

 

Truck still dead, I've been searching this site but have not found anyone with the same problem that had a solution. Is 50 lbs enough presure to get the 7.3 to fire up. When I tested it while cranking the engine, It built up to 50 lbs it took a couple revolutions to get there. The engine shows no signs of life , no smoke no nada. Batteries spin it like crazy they are in good shape. Any body have any ideas?

 

Yes, mine ran on 5 psi although just barely....

I think it's time to pull codes and see if you can get some live data while cranking...

 

I don't have a code reader, what reader should I get ? keeping in mind I not going to make my living with it. And where is a good place to buy it?
Thank you

 

Maybe I'm trying to over simplify this system but What kills the engine when you turn the key off? could that malfunction and be the cause? I assume to make a diesel quit running you have to stop the fuel or the compression as that's all they need. So is there a compression release or a fuel kill switch I should be checking out?

 

man i am having the same problem right now crank but not start, I will let you know if I figure something out

 

Thanks, I'm out of town this week but I did order a code reader, next week I'll know more . good luck to both of us.

 

Well I just got mine fixed. I found out the IPR was bad and had to replace it. Have you checked the oil level in the HPOP? I would check that. Then IPR o-rings could be bad and the resevoir is draining back to the pan. That would be a good place to start.

 

Thanks for the info. Glad to hear you are back on the road. I just got back in town. Had the code reader I bought waiting for me. (actron cp9145cr $130. ) I hooked it up, says no errors everything good. I tested it again while cranking, same result. So that was no help. I'm not sure how you check the oil level in Hpop. I will price a IPR. How did you figure yours out? How much $ for the IPR?

 

I just checked the oil in the High presure oil pump resevoir, from the top of the case it is 4 and a half inches down to reach oil. should it be to the top? and would that cause it to not start?

 

should be abot an inch from the top i beleive.

 

filled the resevoir with oil. Did not help.
the only thing I can think of that I have not tried yet is the hpop regulator. It looks like it is a bear to get to. Does it unscrew? What do I need to know to get to it and get it out. And I hear it has o rings? remember my truck spins over, has fuel, has fuel presure but does not fire , not even almost. I may need to tow it somewhere.

 

if it was as low as you said it was, you will have to fill it up, crank it over, then keep checking it every time you crank it over to check it it's full, it will take a few times to build pressure back up in the rails. There is a IPR o-ring kit you can get for under $20. A new IPR will cost between 150-200 depending where you get it.

 

What is an IPR? Shouldn't the IPR give a code fault reading? Like I said I am no tech, just have learned alot on this site.

99 Ford PSD F350 7.3L
AFE stage II cold air intake
MBRP 4" turbo back exhaust with 4" down tube and
"5" SS tip

 

I have a 95 7.3 PS as well. I bought it new, and it has always shown a low reading on the amp meter when you first start it. Then about 30 seconds later, it goes back to normal. Never had it shut the engine down when pulling trailers though. Don't know what that could be. The hard starts, and not starting now could be the cam shaft sensor. I have replaced it 3 times in mine. When it would go out, I would start the truck and it would shut back down. After a second start, it would run fine. It would do this for awhile until it wouldn't start at all. It has always been the cam shaft sensor. Good luck.

 

Check engine oil level. If you are a gallon and a half low, you will have problems like this.
check screen between fuel filter and pressure regulator (bolted onto side of fuel filter housing.

 

Jross, thanks good to hear the weird amp problem is not unique to mine. I did repace the cam position sensor after the truck died. did not help. Diesel Monkey, I checked the engine oil leve it is right in the middle of the normal range on the stick. Now do you have to unbolt the fuel presure regulator to see the screen or is it visable looking in the filter can. Remember I am getting 50lbs of fuel presure while cranking at the regulator, (at that little tire valve looking thing.) Thanks
Erik

 

There was a problem of oil draining back from the HPOP reservoir and making a condition of no oil in the reservoir. HPOP pumps all the oil out and then it sucks up some air. I think there was a way to fix it, on the 1995.

 

I added oil to mine it was low but I don't know if it was out. I stuck a screw driver in the hole to use as a dip stick the screwdriver was too short to reach the bottom but the oil was four and a half inches down from the top of the case. I cranked it quite a bit after filling but did not fire. There could be a check valve malfunctioning that holds that tank full. If mine sucked some air..... maybe I need to bleed it? what ya think?

Question: is the HPOP mechanically driven or electricly driven?

 

HPOP is driven with a gear that runs on the topside of the cam gear. It looks like you might have enough oil, got me stumped. Get the codes when you can.

 

i had one jus like that, i completely rebuilt it it did the same problem the rough idleing may be a injector sticking thats what mine did until i replaced them , the starting problem i had to i found out after replacing the terminals that the batteries both had a dead cell , if u kno of anyone that has a chip/programmer install it on ur truck run it for about 1-15 then turn it back to stock that may help to it mite reset othe timing between the engine and computer, i can ask my older brother what he thinks he has a 95 to and hes a desiel mechanic

 

Thanks, all the history of this problem is in this thread. at this point all I can think of is the hpop is not functioning at all. I think the batteries are fine It spins over fast. any help I can get is much appreciated, Thanks.

 

Another strange thing about this truck, for years when you first start up the engine the amp meter in the dash will read only about a quarter of normal, at night lights will be dim too. Then after about 60 to 90 seconds suddenly it will jump up to where it is supposed to be and then no trouble till next time. While the amps are in this reduced state if I am hooked up to the trailer and step on the brakes or use the turn signals it will kill the engine. I guess it is just drawing too much current. So I always start it then wait for the amps. We took the alternator to 3 auto store for testing all said it is fine. Don’t know if this could have anything to do with it but thought I’d throw it in. I would greatly appreciate any help I can get Thanks.

Seperate problem. the amp gauge stays low because your glow plugs are still on after you start the engine. they can stay on for up to 90 seconds i beleive. Mine does the same thing. Never had it kill the engine though.