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07' F550 doesn't tow well, open to suggestions 🤔

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4.5K views 14 replies 6 participants last post by  6LiterTeter  
#1 ·
I have a 07' F550, bulletproofed, hauler bed, kelderman suspension with air ride/leveling. I bought it specifically as a tow rig to pull a 44.5 ft toy hauler. I've been unimpressed with its lack of power. It came with an edge monitor where I can monitor my temps, I added a tow tune specifically made for my 550. But it just doesn't have the power. Its like it lacks a gear or enough power to maintain speeds especially on hills. I just had it dyno'd and it came in right at 273 hp and 420 torque during both tests. Ford says this engine should produce 325 hp and 570 torque without any mods. I would think with the mods I have i would be producing at least the factory specs. I'm going to take it in and see if it needs an injector and if so ill go for all 8.

This is a nice truck built for exactly what I'm wanting it to do, but it just isn't doing it. If I can drop some cash in this truck to get the power/torque up I'm all in, but if not I guess I'll be looking for a 6.7. Looking for input. Any ideas on what could be wrong? Anything I should look into? When I do research on increasing power it seems like everything is for a 16 year old who wants to spin their tires and race their pimple faced buddies vs help tow. What am I missing?
 
#4 · (Edited)
Nice looking truck. How many miles and operating hours on it?
Please tell us specifically what mods it has since "bulletproofed" means many different things to different people.

The Edge does not read codes well.

You need to get ForScan - the "Lite" version on a smartphone works well and is a $6 download. You will need an ELM 32 (OBDII) adapter - I like the BAFX brand for its value (WiFi version for an iphone, Bluetooth for Android). $30 for the adapter. The OBDLink MX+ is a better adapter, will work with Android, but it is now $120.

Also, anyone that owns a 6.0L needs to install a fuel pressure sensor and gauge. It is very important and ca help you avoid a total "early" injector replacement expense.

Lastly, post up EBP, MAP (or boost), and Baro values at KOEO. Sometimes Edge products have issues with a valid EBP reading, but we need to see what's going on.

If you just want to get your hands dirty before getting troubleshooting data, then you can remove the EBP sensor and run a stiff weed-whacker string down the tube to verify that it isn't plugged up. Also, make sure the EBP sensor itself isn't plugged up. Then the MAP sensor hose can be removed and inspected for holes or cracks, and plugging. With the hose off, then verify that the nipple on the manifold that the hose connects to isn't plugged up.
 
#5 ·
There are many factors that can contribute to lack of power. I had similar issues pulling my fiver up hills, and it ended up being low fuel pressure and seized veins on my turbo. I cleaned/rebuilt my turbo and added and aftermarket fuel pump, and now I have all the power and much lower EGTs.

Bismic is right, get a fuel pressure gauge installed asap!

Ps: how do I tag other users in a post as a source?
 
#6 ·
Mlgjellybean123 - So the truck doesn't run rough, no shaking, no smoke, boost seems ok. Here is the issue or symptom as best i can describe it. To maintain speed you have to be driving witht he RPM's around 2800-3k. Highway speeds thats about 70mph. I know a lot of folks with campers say going over 65mph is not recommended, dangerous, reckless, etc. When I have this truck at 65mph, the RPM's are around 2,200-2,500 and I can't maintain that speed if I hit a hill, and accelerating from that speed/RPM is challenging, takes forever. So as I'm driving its a game of trying to keep the truck at 70mph, that means picking up speed going down hills so that I don't drop below 70MPH as I go back up the next hill. On large and or long hills its brutal. I gauge how much to accelerate by the EGT temps, trying not to get into the 1,200 mark, mostly keeping it around 1,100, but as speed/RPM's drop I have to downshift, and it becomes a game of trying not to get the EGT's too high, while not losing too much speed, but over time the engine temp gets up there (not sure if its coolant or oil temp) and when it hits 220 I then back off the accelerator regardless of the EGT's let the speed drop, downshitt getting the RPM's high and then I'll see the engine temp cool off or at least maintain and not continue to rise. I live in Las Vegas, but own some rural property in Northern New Mexico, so I pull my 5th wheel through some steep grades in AZ and probably the steepest is around Lake Mead. On the steepest/longest grades I'll drop down to 20-25MPH. Embarrassing but also dangerous.

I've owned this truck for the last two years. I really only get to pull my camper 1-2 times a year, so I haven't pulled with it that much. At first I thought it was just the gearing, like it needed an extra gear to keep the RMP's higher. But after a couple of years of owning it, and taking it to my mechanic describing the above, he thinks there is something wrong leading to a lack of power or torque. That's what led me to have it Dyno'd. I'll post a pic of the Dyno. I also thought, it would be nice to know my HP and Torque now, and then if i replace the injectors I can Dyno it again to see what replacing the injectors did for HP and or Torque.

Bismic - Thanks, its in great shape, interior is in fantastic shape and exterior pretty good as well. It was a single owner truck for quite some time. A guy in MN owned it. He was a snowbird and each winter drove his camper to Tucson, then back to MN in the spring. He sold it to his neighbor in AZ just before Covid hit, his neighbor was going to use it to hotshot, but with Covid the hotshot business dried up (right at the onset of Covid) and that's when he listed it for sale. I dont think he owned it more than a couple months. All of the bullet proofing was done by the original owner. I have the receipts so i'll dig through them and post likely Sat what all was done. Mileage it has around 213k, it had the engine replaced by the dealer under warrantee. I'll look at the receipts to see when what was done including the bulletproofing. I believe 2 injectors were replaced during it's life, but I think all the others are original. Unfortunately i'm not the most mechanical and a lot of everything else you are saying is like a foreign language.

Semjrx2 - Because my mechanic was thinking there could be an injector issue, I read up on them a bit and I see you can go with larger injectors, but there were some who also suggested upgrading the HPOP i think it was. But then i see others say the larger injectors get you more HP but that doesn't help with towing, which seems odd. Glad to hear you were able to fix your issue and your happy with how it pulls now, gives me some hope! As I said earlier, if I can do some maintenance and or some upgrades and get this truck to tow better, I'll likely keep her for quite some time.

Thanks for everyone's input thus far!
 
#9 ·
Well, sounds about right to me. But, it almost seems like you are lacking boost in the top side of things. Another thing is gearing 100%. The numbers you got from the dyno are accurate as you don't get the 325 advertised at the wheels. Post the data bismic was asking for and go ahead and post what your ICP and IPR % while at 65 mph and idling
 
#11 ·
Sorry, work is all consuming. Had some time to go through my receipts and such. Here is some more info on the truck:
At 77k (4/2011) the engine was replaced at the dealer under warrantee
At 130k (8/2014) the truck was bulletproofed at AZ's Affordable Diesel Tech in Tucson, AZ. Bulletproofing consisted of:
  • Arp studs
  • New oil cooler
  • Sinister Diesel coolant filtration kit
  • Ficm
  • HPOP
  • Egr cooler
  • All 8 injectors replaced (not sure if new OE or reman)
  • SCT tuner
  • Edge Evolution monitor
At 202k (11/2019) it looks like the truck had some high pressure leaks and various work was completed, at AZ Affordable Diesel Tech, including – 3 injectors replaced (reman)
Right now the truck as 217,500 miles on it.
Other upgrades this truck has, not sure when they were upgraded:
  • MBRP 4” turbo back exhaust w/ high flow cat
  • Mishimoto radiator and expansion tank
  • Kelderman 4 link air ride rear suspension with auto leveling, on board air
Looking at the history of this truck, receipts and such, it looks like it has had a "no start when hot" issue. I can see the glow plugs have been replaced several times as well as various wiring. I haven't had the no start issue, but i've been aware this was an issue with this truck looking at the receipts so i dont turn it off when traveling until i get to my destination, and i don't turn the engine off until my EGT temp gets down to 385 or so.

I don't know most of what Bismic's abbreviations mean so I'll look all of that up and see if i can't post the info/data that is being requested. Should be able to get to it tomorrow. Thanks again for everyone's help thus far!
 
#12 · (Edited)
So the EBP is exhaust backpressure. There is a tube and sensor on the thermostat housing and it runs into the exhaust manifold. The MAP is your manifold absolute pressure, and if I'm not mistaken, is on the passenger (edit) side of the intake manifold with a rubber hose running from that to a sensor on a bracket on the heater box. Both of these control your VGT vanes in your turbo to accurately produce enough boost that's needed. Your truck basically relies on these values and if they are off, it can screw up how it runs. The barometric reading is helpful to know to compare to both of these values to make sure the sensor isn't crap or gummed up. So a normal baro reading is 14 psi. If your EBP is reading 2 psi, the sensor is faulty or the tube is plugged. And let's see that fuel pressure, wether a permanent or temporary test gauge is used, just see if it's within the normal range.
 
#15 ·
@LVmountainman Hoping this thread won’t die… might be a good refresher for the forum on troubleshooting common low power issues on a 6.0. Out of whack HPOP, EBP, MAP, boost leaks (and more) can all contribute to loss of power especially when towing. When I started paying close attention to all of the important values, I truly began to understand what makes a 6.0 perform or, fall flat on its face. First time I saw my ICP drop when I mashed the go pedal on the highway (my truck was definitely down on power) it helped me realize my HPOP was kaput. I’ve had several lack-of-power issues but good monitoring/having a sharp mechanic made them no great mysteries. Really hoping to see you get to the bottom of it… that is a cool rig.