Bizzaro-world.

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Under hood light, looks like it needs replacing anyways -- you can see the terminals (green) where the bulb is supposed to go
you can pop it apart and try to clean it up -- just unplug the thing for now

The system should not monitor the hood light at all -- tho it does power from the delay relay that powers the interior lights

Some codes take a couple of key cycles to show up -- this gives a little "padding" to the code system

I would reset the codes and scan again -- you are only interested in recurring codes anyways
disconnecting plugs on the harness can set codes, so always keep that in mind, and reset the codes after messing with the harness or sensors

 

I took a picture of the thing on the hood (bottom of page). It is probably a light connection base. The issue I was bringing up when I talked about this "thing" was when it was disconnected, the ForScan showed:

OBDII DTC - No Error Codes found
PCM ERROR
OTC B1203 Fuel Sender Circuit Short To Battery
ECS NONE
GEM R 1352 - Ignition Key-in Circuit Failure
ABS NONE
Unable to read DTC

I then shut off the ignition and connected the "thing" back (should have made no difference if it was just a missing light, since both cases should have indicated an open circuit). When I immediately checked the ForScan, I received:

OBDII DTC – Successful DTC reading, No Error Codes found
PCM P0603 - Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error
OTC B1203 - Fuel Sender Circuit Short To Battery
ECS NONE
GEM R 1352 - Ignition Key-in Circuit Failure
GEM C1223 - Door Ajar Lamp Circuit Failure
ABS NONE

Nothing had been done except turning off the ignition, plugging in the "thing" and then turning on the ignition again. It could just have been a glitch that caused the ForScan from successfully reading the OBDII DTC, but I felt it was worth noting at the time.

 

Picture of the hood stabby thing please

 

I think it's the light. It is in a position to hit you in the head

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Sorry, I forgot to add one caution when the injector plug in the UCVH plug comes loose. Remember, the internal combustion piston engine is really just a modified air pump. When my connector came loose, I had to drive about 15-20 miles back to a place I could attempt a repair.

During this trip, I pumped over a gallon of oil out of the crankcase. I has a similar issue over 50 years ago when the smog device on my engine (an air pump injected additional air into the exhaust valve into the combustion chamber-circa 1967) melted a hole down the side of my piston (52,000 miles on a 50,000 mile warrantee) It "burned" about three quarts of oil in just minutes. I added oil and was able to drive the car about 80 miles to home without any further oil loss though.

 

I finally got home again. Hooked up ForScan and had a fault on one accelerator pedal position sensor output, and "0" on the others. Took it out and the resistance is "0" except at near idle position. Interesting that I did not get an error message outside that found when I specifically selected the sensor output. I am guessing that the "normal" reading I had near idle make the computer think I was not touching the accelerator as gutarnut had suggested. Waiting for parts. Will repost the results.

The "thing" on my hood that was stabbing me in the head when I was taking the valve cover off looked like a temperature sensor much like that connected to the air intake filter box on the driver side of the engine compartment. I was just interested that it created the errors I mentioned.

 

I have to admit. Autoenginuity is worth it's weight in gold. Plug it in connect to your laptop. Easy and accurate.

This problem seems to be an injector harness issue. Either UCVH or the engine harness itself. Thoroughly inspect the valve cover portion. If nothing is found, start unwrapping harness from the valve cover back to the main connector. You'll find your problem and the fix is usually pretty straight forward. I've had to repair the harnesses on both my 7.3's. It's not hard but finding the bad wiring takes time. Also with a harness problem you'll get all kinds of weird codes. The cause on mine is common to a bunch of us. The CCV elbow becomes brittle over time and begins to drip oil on the engine harness. This in turn turns the insulation on the wiring to goo and the bare wires either short against each other or the RFI shield and the affected injectors never fire, or fire at the wrong time. It's a mess but easily fixed with some new wire, a soldering iron, and a new elbow.

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ForScan will monitor the throttle pedal position -- just look at the numbers as you run the pedal thru it's motion -- do the increase steadily?

Yeah, if you guys find anything mounted to the hood besides the light, post some pictures with a description -- always willing to learn something new

 

ForScan will monitor the throttle pedal position -- just look at the numbers as you run the pedal thru it's motion -- do the increase steadily?

Yeah, if you guys find anything mounted to the hood besides the light, post some pictures with a description -- always willing to learn something new

I bought the android app and it's worth the money. So much nicer than getting the laptop booted up.

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At 1:20 in the video he says when on the highway use your cruise control to increase speed. If it works smoothly but pedal doesn't then it's the APS.

Hydro - missing bulb on air temperature sensor - hahahaha. That was the only thing I could think about under the hood but I was going to look. Though maybe a different year had something I was missing


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.....................

 

That item on the hood is the under hood light -- likely someone pulled the bulb out

The throttle has both a "clicker" switch and a potentiometer built into the mechanism
the clicker switch is the "idle verification switch" -- and you can hear it click when you first push on the pedal -- you will need to get down there close to hear it
the pot is what controls the throttle position to the PCM -- so the engine RPM is controled
depending on if you have the adjustable pedals or not, the pivot point is different for the two types of pedal
look for "slack" in the linkage to the potentiometer or broken wires

Your ODB adapter has a bearing on the quality of the data you get from the PCM -- some dont read all the data stream
that is why we recommend the BAFX or OBDLink MX+ for the adapters

You can do the .25 cent mod on that valve cover connector or use a small zip tie to keep it together
even now the terminals may be burned and not making good connection
ForScan click test would help verify the connections -- all the injectors should "click" with a good force
a heat gun or just using your hand on the manifold is also a decent indicator to tell if the injectors are firing
just need to do it soon after the engine is started, so you get an accurate read on the individual cylinders

on a 7.3 you only get the codes from the IDM during a self test -- ForScan should initiate this test

 

The tps sounds reasonable. How would it know there's a problem to throw a code? It would just think you aren't pushing on the pedal.

I don't know what hood sensor you're talking about. I'm going to look at mine tomorrow. Apparently it's called accelerator position sensor. Does this sound like your current problem?

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I finally was able to look at my 2001 F350 7.3 engine. I started the engine, and the driver side exhaust header was cold, passenger side warm.

I removed the Driver Side Valve Cover, and touched the wiring harness to the injectors and glow plugs (the inside connecter in the gasket). It was loose. I pushed it toward the gasket about 1/8-1/4 inch, it clicked and when I pulled on the wires, it was locked and solid.

I started the engine, and it still seems like there is no throttle response. At WOT would only raise the RPM to about 2000, in neutral.

Test drove in front of our house (speed limit 50 MPG) and got up to about 40 MPH in a quarter mile. The test could be notated as successful since I got a "Service Engine Soon" light for about 10 seconds.

Connected ForScan and read what was presented:

When DTC icon selected:

OBDII DTC - No Error Codes found
PCM ERROR
OTC B1203 Fuel Sender Circuit Short To Battery
ECS NONE
GEM R 1352 - Ignition Key-in Circuit Failure
ABS NONE
Unable to read DTC

No wonder I did not get any DTC codes, it could not read them.

I did get the “OTC B1203 Fuel Sender Circuit Short To Battery” earlier, but the “GEM R1352 Ignition Key-In Circuit Failure” and neither of these seem to be a cause for my problem.

I had disconnect one rather large connector over the driver’s side valve cover, but it seemed to slide in nicely without any great resistance. I removed the large connector, and checked all the pins. None were bent or deformed. Reconnected.

I did notice the sensor on the hood, that I kept hitting my head on (air temperature sensor?), was not reinstalled. Installed it (without any specific error code?).

Started the engine. It MAY have been better, but….

When DTC icon on the ForSCAN was selected:

OBDII DTC – Successful DTC reading, No Error Codes found
PCM P0603 - Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error
OTC B1203 - Fuel Sender Circuit Short To Battery
ECS NONE
GEM R 1352 - Ignition Key-in Circuit Failure
GEM C1223 - Door Ajar Lamp Circuit Failure
ABS NONE

PCM P0603 could have been caused by my resetting the computers and not driving (just at idle in driveway) (?)

One important thing to note is the driver side exhaust manifold was cold before the “repair”, now it is warm, so the repair was somewhat successful.

It seems like the engine is in a “limp home” mode they use to have on the first computerized engines 40 years ago.

Any help would be appreciated?

 

I finally was able to look at my 2001 F350 7.3 engine. I started the engine, and the driver side exhaust header was cold, passenger side warm.

I removed the Driver Side Valve Cover, and touched the wiring harness to the injectors and glow plugs (the inside connecter in the gasket). It was loose. I pushed it toward the gasket about 1/8-1/4 inch, it clicked and when I pulled on the wires, it was locked and solid.

I started the engine, and it still seems like there is no throttle response. At WOT would only raise the RPM to about 2000, in neutral.

Test drove in front of our house (speed limit 50 MPG) and got up to about 40 MPH in a quarter mile. The test could be notated as successful since I got a "Service Engine Soon" light for about 10 seconds.

Connected ForScan and read what was presented:

When DTC icon selected:

OBDII DTC - No Error Codes found
PCM ERROR
OTC B1203 Fuel Sender Circuit Short To Battery
ECS NONE
GEM R 1352 - Ignition Key-in Circuit Failure
ABS NONE
Unable to read DTC

No wonder I did not get any DTC codes, it could not read them.

I did get the “OTC B1203 Fuel Sender Circuit Short To Battery” earlier, but the “GEM R1352 Ignition Key-In Circuit Failure” and neither of these seem to be a cause for my problem.

I had disconnect one rather large connector over the driver’s side valve cover, but it seemed to slide in nicely without any great resistance. I removed the large connector, and checked all the pins. None were bent or deformed. Reconnected.

I did notice the sensor on the hood, that I kept hitting my head on (air temperature sensor?), was not reinstalled. Installed it (without any specific error code?).

Started the engine. It MAY have been better, but….

When DTC icon on the ForSCAN was selected:

OBDII DTC – Successful DTC reading, No Error Codes found
PCM P0603 - Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error
OTC B1203 - Fuel Sender Circuit Short To Battery
ECS NONE
GEM R 1352 - Ignition Key-in Circuit Failure
GEM C1223 - Door Ajar Lamp Circuit Failure
ABS NONE

PCM P0603 could have been caused by my resetting the computers and not driving (just at idle in driveway) (?)

One important thing to note is the driver side exhaust manifold was cold before the “repair”, now it is warm, so the repair was somewhat successful.

It seems like the engine is in a “limp home” mode they use to have on the first computerized engines 40 years ago.

Any help would be appreciated?

You'll need to go to the monitoring tab and watch things like hpop, icp, iPR, rpm, etc.

Someone here will hopefully chime in on your reading. I'd post a pic at idle and wot.



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Please remember I am new to engine computers. I have an electrical engineering degree which is useless for reading other peoples programs, unless I have the proper documentation. I can only respond to what I have been told, which I am the first to admit may not be 100% accurate.

Anyway, I like the idea of erasing all codes and see what is happening now. As I stated earlier, one of my codes was several years old just before I replaced batteries. I was "told" the Ford computer stores all the codes it receives. I was under the mistaken impression that they were some type of archive files, which I have now learned is not the case. I did not attempt to erase them because I did not know that was an option.

My current problems is that I do not have access to the truck, and will not be back home for a couple of weeks.
I did list the codes I could find earlier in this thread. The way the truck behaved and my Exhaust Temperature leads me to believe it is the UCVH. connector as was stated in the first two responses from guitarnut and SuperCrutyPS. I will check the connector(s) and erase my codes and then post any findings at that time.

Again, thanks to all for the help.

 

Ayup, write the codes down, then Erase the codes (choose Erase All)
then if any new codes pop, those are worthwhile to look at

"old" codes can be from last time the truck was started -- so not really a useful thing, one would need to know the instances of a historical code to be of any help in troubleshooting.

ALSO; your obd adapter can limit the capabilities of the app to get information, some are not able to read all the modules in the truck
there are two adapters that are recommended because the will actually read everything

MX+ Support

Check out all the starting guides and documents for the OBDLink® MX+ from OBDLink®. Purchase your powerful scan tool today!

www.obdlink.com

BAFX Products® - Wireless Bluetooth OBD2 Reader / Scanner for Android Devices

The best bluetoothe OBDII reader for Android devices on the market today! Guaranteed to work on ALL OBDII compliant vehicles! Not just a few! Backed by 2 Year warranty from BAFX Products®

bafxpro.com

 

So first, NO,,,, what the engine error light is called is decided by the manufacturer. Ford says "Service Engine Soon" and GM says "Check Engine" but they are All MIL's (Malfunction Indicator Lights). It's only Semantics and you don't have both a SES and a CE, you just have a MIL that's called whatever they label it...

Next, and I don't have it in front of me right now, but you think that ForScan has a place that stores an error code History that you can't Erase? That doesn't sound right,,, are you sure? Have you done a "Clear" ?

In any case let's talk about your Current codes (and, if you have a MIL on after clearing codes) then you HAVE current codes. If you go to the Errors Page those are going to be your current codes. What are they???

 

I thought that CEL and SES were interchangable, but as I said before I am new to these issues. So what you are saying is that OBDII codes are not the the only codes to look for. The idea of the archive codes came from another FORD site for our car. When I look up the codes on our car, there are MANY codes listed, some could be referring to issues that are years old. You are saying all of the codes on our car are currently active, even though there is no apparent problems or check engine activity. Interesting!

I am several hundred miles away from our truck, so I will not be able to test the plug idea for a couple of weeks.

Thanks for the help.

 

First, I want to thank you for the video you attached.

Then, I said it was an old code since it had been entered, then "corrected" since it is not in the active OBDII error code page. For example, I had a low voltage error code, but I have since replaced the battery. This code could be years old.

I have never looked at this "error page" before, just what I would read on the the simple OBDII code reader you can borrow from an auto parts store. I have been lead to believe all codes created by the computer are stored in an archive file, which I have been told should not and cannot be cleared. I believe that file is where I found the codes I listed. Please let me know if it was such a severe code, why I did not get a OBDII error code or check engine light. As I had said earlier, the only light that came on was a "Service Engine Soon" light that flashed for a couple of seconds 5-10 minutes apart.

Please let me know if I am wrong, but I believe my vehicle has both a "Check Engine Light" and a "Service Engine Soon" light (told that by a local diesel mechanic). I understand computer and understand engines, but have very little knowledge on engine computers. I have a lot to learn.

As for the error code P1316, "Injector circuit/IDM codes detected", could it not have been caused by the UCVH plug being loose? But remember, it did not show with a simple code reader as an active error.

As for FORScan, I have now used it twice. Once I followed line by line directions to reset a counter on my Fusion Hybrid, and this time with my attempt at reading error codes. I know it has a lot of power I have not utilized, but I am just a beginner on this program.

Remember, I did not even know what a UCVH was until this group told me.

 

First, I want to thank you for the video you attached.

Then, I said it was an old code since it had been entered, then "corrected" since it is not in the active OBDII error code page. For example, I had a low voltage error code, but I have since replaced the battery. This code could be years old.

I have never looked at this "error page" before, just what I would read on the the simple OBDII code reader you can borrow from an auto parts store. I have been lead to believe all codes created by the computer are stored in an archive file, which I have been told should not and cannot be cleared. I believe that file is where I found the codes I listed. Please let me know if it was such a severe code, why I did not get a OBDII error code or check engine light. As I had said earlier, the only light that came on was a "Service Engine Soon" light that flashed for a couple of seconds 5-10 minutes apart.

Please let me know if I am wrong, but I believe my vehicle has both a "Check Engine Light" and a "Service Engine Soon" light (told that by a local diesel mechanic). I understand computer and understand engines, but have very little knowledge on engine computers. I have a lot to learn.

As for the error code P1316, "Injector circuit/IDM codes detected", could it not have been caused by the UCVH plug being loose? But remember, it did not show with a simple code reader as an active error.

As for FORScan, I have now used it twice. Once I followed line by line directions to reset a counter on my Fusion Hybrid, and this time with my attempt at reading error codes. I know it has a lot of power I have not utilized, but I am just a beginner on this program.

Remember, I did not even know what a UCVH was until this group told me.

You need to check the connection to your UCVH. Have you even done that yet?

You have either a ses or cel but not both (I believe). This idea of old codes is BS. Not all are old because if you see the SES there's a code. I think either you're not understanding the mechanic or you need to find a new one. CEL and SES are used interchangeably (y'all feel free to correct me if I am wrong)

Just plug in the UCVH and be done or at least know that's not what it is because next step involves removing the valve covers or using a volt tester to test individual pins.

Use forscan to clear all codes. Then
1) verify the connections to both ucvh and 2) use forscan to do a buzz test.

Post your new codes from forscan.

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Wait a min....

You can't say you have "No Codes" and then present a list like that! (a 1316 is a Serious code and needs to be explored)

So first, let's stop talking about "old" codes, there's no place for that. ERASE ALL CODES as soon as you record what's there and see what comes back right away (those are the significant ones). That's how it's done...

If the 1316 returns then you want to do a Buzz Test to allow the IDM to perform it's own set of tests in the process and see if it resolves more codes.

Here's a good vid on the subject;

 

I really thank you for your help. But, what is a UCVH? My initial thought was the connector (for the injectors, I think?)
under the valve cover had come loose. Is this the UCVH?

Of course it happened when I was headed out of town with a pickup bed full of tools for an out of town job.

 

I really thank you for your help. But, what is a UCVH? My initial thought was the connector (for the injectors, I think?)
under the valve cover had come loose. Is this the UCVH?

Of course it happened when I was headed out of town with a pickup bed full of tools for an out of town job.

Ucvh - under cover valve harnesses - yes the connection to the injectors under the valve covers

Did plugging it in fix it? There should have been codes. Are you sure you are connected? Can you see live data?

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I agree with @guitarnut - based on the EGT only getting to 350°, I bet it's the driver's side since the probe is usually in the driver's side manifold. No codes is odd.

 

Ucvh - under cover valve harnesses - yes the connection to the injectors under the valve covers

Did plugging it in fix it? There should have been codes. Are you sure you are connected? Can you see live data?

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I have to go out of town (leaving most of the tools I needed for the job at home in the bed of the truck [ ] ), so I will not be able to try for a couple of weeks. Will post my results then.

I am not 100% sure I was connected "properly". My computer ,via the FORScan, did read the correct vehicle information and saved the truck specifications for future use, so I think so. I did not look to see if it was reading live data, sorry.

I am a beginner on FORScan, and have only used it one other time to reprogram our Ford Fusion Hybrid "timing clock" for the hybrid module. I that case, Ford, in their extreme future vision, decided when the car was about 10 years old, it was no longer a functioning vehicle. When this timer reached its maximum count, the computer disabled all the hybrid features, with the resulting GPM going from 39/42 (winter/summer) to about 32 winter (fixed before summer came).

I did have some "old"codes, but none were currently active (I think, at least not listed as so on the OBDII code page). The first four may have some validity, but the others? You may also note I had dual alternator faults. I have dual batteries but only one alternator. FYI they are:

PCM	P0381	Glow plug indicator circuit malfunction	Open/grounded circuit, lamp open, failed PCM
PCM	P1316	Injector circuit/IDM codes detected	Injector circuit failure/IDM codes detected
PCM	P0541	Manifold intake air heater...	Open/short circuit
PCM	P0542	Manifold intake air heater...	Grounded circuit
PCM	P0503	Vehicle speed sensor noisy	Harness routing, sensor
PCM	P0562	System voltage low	Low sys. voltage, charging sys., internal PCM failure
PCM	P1105	Dual alternator upper fault (monitor)	Circuit failure, alternator failure, PCM
PCM	P1106	Dual alternator lower fault (control)	Circuit failure, alternator failure, PCM
PCM	P1107	Dual alternator lower circuit malf. (control)	Circuit failure, alternator failure, PCM
OTC	B1203	Fuel Sender Circuit Short To Battery
OTC	B1352	Ignition Key-In Circuit Failure
OTC	B1323	Door Ajar Lamp Circuit Failure
GEN	C1223	Lamp Brake Warning Output Circuit Failure or Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0

Note: This site has helped me fix several difficult problems I have had with my truck. I thank all who have helped me now and in the past.

 

Odd there is no codes. It sounds like a UCVH has come loose. I had this happen and it was like you said but I had codes galore.

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