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250k mile Oil Analyses: Mobil Delvac 1 ESP 5W-40: CK4

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#21 ·
Thank you. I never bothered to account for how many hours I spent lapping all four of my surfaces, two heads, and both sides of the block. But it was days, with some rest in between. That was work! The driver's side block took forever to correct the bad milling work Ford's rebuilder did.

That friggin engine should have been sent to a VoTech school to show how many things could be done wrong by a rebuilder. I guess it could have been worse, the plasma weld to restore the cylinder's diameter hasn't peeled out of the block, yet, as it had with some other engines ...
 
#22 ·
It took me probably 2 weeks to do all four surfaces working a couple of hours a day. Would have been much quicker to bring them to a machine shop but my time is free. The factory milling on mine was pathetic as well. It is a miracle that it did not have gasket leaks. I also followed your lead and polished the crank and new cam. I am now also running a 2um bypass oil filtration system so hopefully this motor will outlive me. That is if we can get quality replacement parts in the future with Ford outsourcing more and more stuff and becoming the same junk as aftermarket.
 
#23 ·
bismic said:
Dave, I haven't looked for it for several years. I found an incredible sale (and rebates) and picked up a few gallons. Now that I only need to drive around 4-5k miles a year, I will only be doing annual(ish) oil changes (actually have been doing that for a couple of years already).

I'm sure this could generate a bit of discussion on how long unopened engine oil stays good!! So far so good.

I do like the Mobil diesel oil. I have tried a number of different oils over the years (no Amsoil though) and I always seem to come back to the Mobil oils.

Also, except for a couple of oil changes when the truck was new, it has all been 5W40. When new, I used some Motorcraft 15W40 for a couple of oil changes. IMO, 5W40 oil is why my original injectors are still going good (well enough anyway - seeing a bit of fuel economy drop), but I do know that I currently have a bit of an exhaust gas leak - "Y" pipe probably, that is affecting the fuel economy.

EDIT: just two oil changes left in inventory and it is all the TDT (Turbo Diesel Truck 5W40).
Click to expand...
Good to know, I'll start searching. I run about 10k miles per year so 2-oil changes.

I ran Mobil 15W-40 synthetic during COVID with the 5W-40 shortages and the truck immediately seemed to run smoother/quieter. BUT cold starts still weren't pretty once the weather got cold. 5W-40 cures that. I've still got stock 06 FICM programming without the inductive heating so it needs all the help it can get with 30F cold starts. 1 injector is borderline too...oh the rabbit trail. :ROFLMAO:
 
#24 ·
bismic said:
I used to have the major work that has been done on the truck in my signature, but I decided to put links to helpful troubleshooting threads in my signature instead.

The truck is a 2006 model year with commonized heads.

Upgrades and major work:
  • Head studs (thanks Scuffy, ie Scott and @npccpartsman) when I tuned it (8000 pound tow tune and Atlas 40 FICM tune). Tuned at the end of the 100k warranty period.
  • Several electronic gauge systems (OBDII port) with fuel pressure and coolant pressure gauges.
  • Proactively upgraded the HPOP discharge STC fitting with upgraded OEM standpipes and dummy plugs when the upgraded ones first came out.
  • Upgraded OEM oil cooler when the extra cooling row was first introduced.
  • Extensive coolant flush and switch to Rotella Ultra ELC coolant.
  • Proactive OEM glow plugs and GPCM.
  • Aftermarket fluids in the transfer case and both differentials.
  • BPD EGR cooler (proactively).
  • BPD radiator when the original failed.
  • BPD water pump
  • Snow Plow fan clutch
  • Fuel tank sump when pickup tube failed.
  • Rebuilt the HFCM.
  • Blue regulator spring (OEM) and relocated fuel pump relay.
  • Upgraded FICM (thanks Ed at FICMRepair.com).
  • Stage 1.5 turbo (thanks KC Turbo) when the OEM original one failed.
  • CCV re-route with filter.
  • Power steering filter.
  • Upgraded ball joints (DynaTrac ProSteer rebuildable), Bilstein shocks.
  • All other front end components at one time or another (OEM replacements).
  • Replaced cab bump stops (maybe an upgrade. maybe not).
  • Degas bottle/reservoir cracked and leaked (and completely "clouded up"). Replaced with OEM reservoir. Proactively upgraded to a stainless steel Leader Evaporator (or H2O-Innovations, or Bascom brand) "WYE" under the degas bottle.
  • Miscellaneous mods: alternator, batteries, Riff Raff CAC boots (thanks @partyman97_3 ), wiring (thanks TooManyToys), intake elbow, removed cat and also removed the air flow stator, serpentine belt. Replaced miscellaneous (OEM ONLY) sensors proactively, OE, replacement of front hubs/seals.
  • Still have the original OEM air filtration system (change filter every 30k miles) and running the original injectors and original Charge-Air-Cooler.
  • Rigorous PM on fluids, filters, brakes, etc. Still running Mercon SP transmission fluid.
  • Fumoto block drains and oil pan drain
  • I used to have two more frame rail batteries and a 3000 watt Power Gate power inverter, but removed them doing other maintenance, just haven't had time to re-install them. Not hunting as much anymore.

I can add approximate dates/miles for the work above if it might have value.

There are probably a few other upgrades worth mentioning, but maybe I'll add those in a future edit.

A labor of love - LOL!
Click to expand...
Honestly Id take as much info as I can get, I know a lot of us on here want to learn as much as we can and anyone else's data helps guide us.

One of the reasons I wasn't as afraid of the 6.0 was seeing the passion everyone on these forums has for this truck which makes it a lot more fun...
 
Discussion starter · #25 · (Edited)
FreeMotivation said:
Honestly Id take as much info as I can get, I know a lot of us on here want to learn as much as we can and anyone else's data helps guide us.

One of the reasons I wasn't as afraid of the 6.0 was seeing the passion everyone on these forums has for this truck which makes it a lot more fun...
Click to expand...
A lot of people here are able AND willing to help! We have some truly amazing aftermarket companies supporting us also.

The milestone I am at now was my goal (minimum 250k miles and at least 15 years), and I always had planned for a 6.7L. Now, I just can't see parting with it for a while longer, but watching Ford drop the quality of OEM 6.0L parts is painful to say the least.
 
#27 ·
bismic said:
I found an incredible sale (and rebates) and picked up a few gallons.
Click to expand...
I just did my first oil change in a while and was searching to see if people were still using Blackstone for oil analysis. I came across this thread so I guess Mark is still using them. I was leaning that way anyway since I already have the kit and labels.

This was my first change since switching to Mobil Delvac Extreme 15W40. I will be posting the report in a thread when I get it back. My prior oil was T6 and I had a report on it so I'm curious to see how they match up.

FYI. Mobil has another rebate promo on both ESP and Extreme, from 9/1/25 to 11/30/25. $10 per gallon (limit 2) and $40 per 5 gallon pail (limit 2). The 5 gallon pail of Delvac Extreme is on sale at my Walmart right now for $89.99. After the rebate, that's $10 a gallon. Even though I have a couple 5 gallon pails sitting in the garage, I might pick up another at that price. (My local Walmart doesn't offer ESP in 5 gallon pails and the 3rd party offer is $177 so that's a no.)

 
#28 ·
I've been going 7500 and UOA's are still same or lower than listed averages.
There is some viscosity reduction happening though. It goes from low side of 40w to high side of 30w.
The guys at Scheaffers say it's not a big deal. The truck doesn't seem to care.
I've gone to the 5w40 per this board. The 5w40 is supposed to be on the high side of 40 spec so maybe it will stay inside the 40w spec. I have around 4500 miles on the 5w40 as of today and again, the truck doesn't seem to care one way or another.
 
#29 ·
bismic said:
The milestone I am at now was my goal (minimum 250k miles and at least 15 years), and I always had planned for a 6.7L. Now, I just can't see parting with it for a while longer, but watching Ford drop the quality of OEM 6.0L parts is painful to say the least.
Click to expand...
Although you'd be getting a newer truck with bells and whistles, you'd also be trading one set of Ford problems for a new set of Ford problems. High pressure fuel pump grenading anyone? I've been seeing a bunch of engine repair videos dealing with major problems on the newer diesels, 6.7 included. Seems like there is no way to avoid problems--no such thing as a mostly problem-free modern diesel motor.

For me, I love my 2006. It looks great, runs great, and it has "low" miles (87k and rust free). Knock on wood, it purrs like a kitten. I also preemptively bought a raft of parts at 90+% off when Advance Auto withdraw from CA last Fall. I plan to keep it for the foreseeable future unless some idiot destroys it on the road. I am also allergic to spending over $100k on a new truck. To save $100k, I will gladly forgo improved cup holders and touchscreen controls that would probably annoy me anyway.
 
#30 ·
I agree. I am a mechanic, and so is my best friend. We both own our own shops. We are both convinced that nothing after the 2005-08 timeframe is worth owning if you plan on keeping it long term as I tend to do. This is why I intentionally sought an older generation truck. I was not specific on Ford, but it is what I found the deal on. I rebuilt the engine and plan on keeping it for many years. I also have a 2001 Mercedes I keep maintained very well for the same reasons.
 
#31 ·
2002 Acura MDX, 275,000 miles, but now it is a "leave on the side of the road dead" vehicle when she goes.

I truely don't understand why all the manufacturers have caught up to Jeep.
 
#32 ·
One of my riding buddies has a 2025 F250 Tremor with the 7.3 gasser I was checking out. Cool looking truck, and lots of cool features, but holy moly they have gotten bigger! Longer, taller. And the silly taller bedrails make it so you can't reach the floor of the bed (I'm 6'-0" tall). Granted his was a Tremor with 35s from the factory.

Also for some reason his bed is slightly shorter. I can put in 2 dirt bikes, kick the back tires together and close the tailgate. He cannot.

And the $75k price tag doesn't help...

Snapped a picture of both side by side. You can really see!

Image
 
#33 ·
bismic said:
I used to have the major work that has been done on the truck in my signature, but I decided to put links to helpful troubleshooting threads in my signature instead.

The truck is a 2006 model year with commonized heads.

Upgrades and major work:
  • Head studs (thanks Scuffy, ie Scott and @npccpartsman) when I tuned it (8000 pound tow tune and Atlas 40 FICM tune). Tuned at the end of the 100k warranty period.
  • Several electronic gauge systems (OBDII port) with fuel pressure and coolant pressure gauges.
  • Proactively upgraded the HPOP discharge STC fitting with upgraded one-piece fitting, and installed OEM standpipes and dummy plugs when the upgraded ones first came out.
  • Upgraded OEM oil cooler when the extra cooling row was first introduced (also proactively).
  • Extensive coolant flush and switch to Rotella Ultra ELC coolant.
  • Proactive OEM glow plugs and GPCM at 100k miles.
  • Aftermarket fluids in the transfer case and both differentials.
  • BPD EGR cooler (proactively).
  • BPD radiator when the original failed (if ever another radiator is needed, I'll get a high capacity one from KCTurbo).
  • BPD water pump
  • Snow Plow fan clutch
  • Fuel tank sump when pickup tube failed.
  • Rebuilt the HFCM.
  • Blue regulator spring (OEM) and relocated fuel pump relay.
  • Upgraded FICM (thanks Ed at FICMRepair.com).
  • Stage 1.5 turbo (thanks KC Turbo) when the OEM original one failed.
  • CCV re-route with filter.
  • Power steering filter.
  • Upgraded ball joints (DynaTrac ProSteer rebuildable), Bilstein shocks.
  • All other front end components at one time or another (OEM replacements as much as possible).
  • Replaced cab bump stops (maybe an upgrade, maybe not).
  • Degas bottle/reservoir cracked and leaked (and completely "clouded up"). Replaced with OEM reservoir. Proactively upgraded to a stainless steel Leader Evaporator (or H2O-Innovations, or Bascom brand) "WYE" under the degas bottle.
  • Miscellaneous mods: alternator, batteries, Riff Raff CAC boots (thanks @partyman97_3 ), wiring (thanks TooManyToys), intake elbow, removed cat and also removed the air flow stator, serpentine belt. Replaced miscellaneous (OEM ONLY) sensors proactively, OE, replacement of front hubs/seals.
  • Still have the original OEM air filtration system (change filter every 30k miles) and running the original injectors and original Charge-Air-Cooler.
  • Rigorous PM on fluids, filters, brakes, etc. Still running Mercon SP transmission fluid.
  • Fumoto block drains and oil pan drain
  • I used to have two more frame rail batteries and a 3000 watt Power Gate power inverter, but removed them doing other maintenance, just haven't had time to re-install them. Not hunting as much anymore.

I can add approximate dates/miles for the work above if it might have value.

There are probably a few other upgrades worth mentioning, but maybe I'll add those in a future edit.

A labor of love - LOL!
Click to expand...
On my phone w/o reading glases lol. Did I miss the egr delete or do you still run it? If deleted at what mialage did it disappear?
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
I have an EGR cooler from BulletProofDiesel. The EGR valve is probably not functional though, lol. Maybe 75k miles that way, can't recall for sure.
 
#35 ·
bismic said:
I have an EGR cooler from BulletProofDiesel. The EGR valve is probably not functional though, lol. Maybe 75k miles that way, can't recall for sure.
Click to expand...
Copy that, excuse my ignorance in the quote "(probably) not functional) do you have it connected but not installed?
I going on 255k egr in tack, BPD egr cooler and updated MC oil cooler.
 
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