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Head gaskets... now no start

4.7K views 43 replies 16 participants last post by  airjeff  
#1 ·
Just finished getting my truck back together after ARPs,OEM head gaskets,stand pipes, dummy plugs,stc fitting,gutted intake manifold with egr delete, mbrp 4" no cat,BPD oil cooler and by-pass and cts. You guys on this site gave me the confidence to tackle this and it was not that tough to do. I have been through twenty start cycles. still no start. The cts shows code P1000: OBD systems readiness test not complete, P0403: EGR control circuit, P0405: EGR sensor A circuit low. Any ideas or advice would be appreciated. Thanks,Ray
 
#2 ·
how long are you letting it crank over on each cycle?
 
#3 ·
Until the batteries start to lag, probably twenty seconds.
 
#4 ·
Did you double check all your wiring and plug in etc....
 
#5 ·
I have, but I'm going to do it again. It seems to be cranking faster than normal. Could that point to anything?
 
#6 ·
I have heard of it taking forever to get enough air out of the hpo system for it to finally fire off. keep on crankin
 
#7 ·
It should fire after 15mins, don't crank your truck for more then 15-20 seconds or you'll burn up your starter. Also does your CTS show icp ? If so pull that up and view pressures during cranking. Needs 500psi IIRC to fire so crank after a few cranks, crank it till it hits that mark.
 
#8 ·
Like mentioned above you need to build at least 500 icp pressure before she will fire. If you can monitor the icp and are not building no pressure. You probably have a high pressure oil leak. I'm not questioning your mechanical ability but did you put the stand pipes in the rear of the oil rail. If those are swaped with the dummy plugs she won't build any pressure. They have to be to rear of the engine. I'm speaking from experience. I put them in backwards and one of the tech's on the org. helped me out. You also need to put a charger on the batteries while starting.

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#9 ·
Yes I put dummies in front holes. Just checked icp pid and it didn't break 50. Batteries are about dead. Have them charging now. Thank You
 
#10 ·
I did the updated hpop fitting, injector orings,new standpipes and dummies. I didnt know you could get injector to oilrail seals until tonight.
 
#11 ·
I'd say after you get some charge on those batteries keep trying to build pressure, you probably have a lot of air in your lines. After about 20 starts you still don't build pressure you have either a bad icp sensor, pigtail to icp sensor, or high pressure oil leak. What is your ipr % it should be I think 25% while starting. Maybe somebody will chime in with a definite answer.
 
#12 ·
I know IPR should be between 13-20% while idling. Not quite sure what the start percentage requirement is though. When I did mine, I had it on the charger the entire starting evolution and I had topped my batteries off with distilled water. It took me three long cranks (about 25 seconds each) to get it fire over. I knew it was about to fire because I saw the factory oil pressure gauge jump up to where it should be. Triple check all your connections, make sure your batteries are strong and try again. If your ICP isn't above 500psi like mentioned earlier, it won't crank. If you purchase the sensor, purchase the pigtail as well.
 
#13 ·
I apologize if this derails the thread but, if your icp on the cts does not show % but shows let's say 0.8 or 1.3, how can you know what psi that translates to .
Furthermore, if some of you are showing % instead of decimals on your cts, why is there a difference from one cts to the other ? I will assume it has to do with year of truck ?

Joe
 
#16 ·
Got fresh batteries. Still no start. ICP v=1.2, ICP=1500lbs., ficm=48.5
 
#17 ·
How about the ipr valve? Could the screen have trash or be clogged....
 
#19 ·
When I updated stc fitting put newer screen on. The old one looked fine but I think the newer one is a finer mesh.
 
#21 ·
p1000, p0403, p0405. This is a recent egr delete so I plugged it back in. No change. Would an autoenginuity help me? I have changed so much stuff at one time I really don't know where to start.
 
#25 ·
This is simple and kinda duh huh but I did it. Make sure you got the glow plug power cable hooked up. The one that goes to the passenger side positive battery terminal. Mine had got stuck under the battery tray and I didn't realize it. Burnt up a starter trying to crank. Once I figured it out it fired first try. Just a thought from past experience.

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#27 ·
I know that your ipr valve opens and closes depending on your icp pressure. With 1500 psi on your icp your ipr valve screen is probably clogged. I have read a lot of post on here about guys replacing oil coolers and not evacuateing the oil out before pulling the oil screen out. Trash works its way from that reservoir and in you ipr screen. Just a thought.

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#28 ·
Try unplugging the icp sensor and see if it will start first, with the icp unplugged it will default to around 700psi. If that doesnt work move to the IPR, first check the pigtail and connector, then check the screen for trash.
 
#30 ·
Tried it with icp unplugged. no change. I got all the oil out of reservoir before removing screen and it was not damaged. Next I'll check IPR plug, pigtail, and screen. I hope that there isn't to much stuff to remove to be able to get to it. Thanks for the help.
 
#31 ·
Ok just thinking about wiring,with pulling the heads off etc..how about checking the wires that run down to the cam and crank sensor to be sure they didn't get damaged.