Interesting.

 

i'm running 10w-30 also(deere plus 50) with almost the exact results, excellent.
i have always run out to 7,500mi per oci, and my local dealer has a large stock of the CI-4 left-over i have been using in not only my 6.0, but also two idi 7.3's.
at 11 bucks a gallon you can't beat the uoa's.

 

And why are you running regular oil ?? 15w40 or 5w40 is for diesel 10w30 is for gasser ? this is new wtf

 

in my above post i stated it is CI-4, which is diesel motor oil.
almost if not all major oil companies offer a 10w-30 diesel oil, and yes its in the owners manual.
it seems some motor oil is more prone to shear in the 6.0 than others, and the 10w-30 will hardly shear at all, almost if they prefer it. when i was running 15w-40 yet, it would shear, but not out of grade like the rts did.
the two runs of rts 5w-40 sheared to 10.6 cst a mid 30wt., where the 15w-40 deere plus 50 sheared to 12.8cst after 7,500 mi, still well within 40wt. grade.
so after several uoa's i came to the conclusion why should i spend 20 bucks a gallon on the rts when after a 7,500 mi. run it was only a 30wt? now i spend 11 bucks a gallon for a 30wt. and after 7,500mi. i drain out a 30wt., with lower wear numbers, and a little bit more money in my wallet

 

can someone interpret the viscosity for me. im just curious to see how much if any it has broken down.

there is a new rotella oil out that is rated for diesel and it is 10W30. it is also a recommended oil in the owners manual.

 

My rundown of viscosity



I turned wrench for a good number of years, and I've got experience with all sorts of oils from my time in the Marine Corps taking care of $2 million aircraft engines, and then employing those engines to deliver hate and discontent to the $h1theads out there who wish to do our nation harm.

The SAE numbers designation breaks down the oil into viscosities at low temperature and high temperature.

Let me start by stating what lubrication engineers would like to have in an ideal, perfect, unobtainable world-- a lubricant with the viscosity of water that stays constant up to extreme temperatures. When you start an internal combustion engine, a low viscosity oil is desired... as low as one can possibly attain because the faster lubrication is delivered via the buildup of operating pressure, the less likely suddenly moving parts are going to wear through whatever lubrication film is left on surfaces from the last shut down.

So, for most gas vehicles, a 5W viscosity is adequate for cold startups and such. This brings us to the other problem engineers face-- keeping that oil thick enough to be effective up to full operating temperature (let's call it 200F for the sake of discussion). Obviously, a straight 5W viscosity oil will loose quite a bit of viscosity as it heats, and in effect become worthless as a lubricant at some point due to excessive thinning. This is where the second number comes in. In the case of a 5W-30 oil, thickening polymers engineered by dudes smarter than you or I are put into the oil, and chain together as the oil heats up, keeping the actual oil viscosity a little more consistent over a wide range of temperatures. If you were to look at a viscosity vs temperature graph for a solid weight oil, it would start at a certain viscosity and essentially decrease linearly at some rate as temperature increases. The addition of carefully engineered thickening substances tries to make this relationship more constant and the curve a little flatter. The engineering challenge for lubricant companies is that the wider the range in viscosity change, the more susceptible that product is to "breaking down," or in other words, the mechanical shearing breaks down the thickening agent to a point where it doesn't reach the number it once did when it was new. This is why all the 0W40 and 5W40 synthetics cost a bit more than your regular 5W30 and 15W40 oils.

All the German manufacturers seem to have gone to 0W40 as the recommended, American manufacturers are going to 5W20 to save a mild amount on fuel economy with an acceptable level of reduction in mechanical reliability (I still put 10W30, 5W30 and 0W30 in all these vehicles, depending on season) to comply with the goofy goddamn CAFE standards.

I do regular oil analysis on my truck through Blackstone since I bought it. I have had two samples come back supurb with Rotella T 15W40 at 5000 mi each interval. I'm running 15W40 right now, but since our power strokes have an oil-fired injection system, I'm moving to a 5W40 synthetic for the winter months as in the gas exploration business I can either leave my truck idling all day, which would make my fuel costs skyrocket, or just do the best I can to protect it with 6-10 starts a day. The thinner that oil is at 5F, the happier my engine will start without the block heater.

I hope this long-winded explanation breaks it down for y'all. Cheers.

 

Yes im curious to what the 10w30 was sheared to ?????? if 15w40 get sheared to 10w30

 

Me too! This sounds wierd!

 

I'm running the Rotella T6 in my 2007 and I will do a Blackstone analysis at 7500 miles. I would like to get 7500-10K out of this oil as loing as it does not shear too much.

 

Rotella T-5 is the 10w-30 DIESEL OIL offered. It is diesel oil.

I am not quite sure on where the "sheer" is on my report and I can cut an e-mail to blackstone to help clarify any sheering, but the viscosity reported in the report above reads as follows:

SUS Viscosity @ 210ºF - 61.2. Values should be between 59-65.

So I'm within this range.

cSt viscosity @ 100ºC - 10.57. Values should be between 9.9-11.9.

I'm also within this range.

Viscosity Charts

The above link has the SUS viscosity chart. According to it, at 210ºF, my oil is sheered at exactly the right level of 30wt.

My cSt range is also exactly at a 30wt.

So there you have it. NO sheering whatsoever.

This does cost me a pretty penny when I change my oil. Almost $80 per oil change. However, this report will be saving me money as I will now be extending my oil changes another 2,500 miles. I am also running my engine WELL with this oil.

The owners manual states that I can use this grade of oil for what I do, which is mainly haul things occasionally and just basically use this is my own personal back/forth to/from work.

The owners manual also states that trucks that routinely haul should use 15w-40.

 

interesting, subscribed

 

Another couple of GOOD things to report with this oil.

1. I am burning absolutely ZERO oil. I drained 15qts when I drained my oil and I didn't add a single drop throughout all this time.

2. My mileage is pretty good. I got 22-23mpg on the interstate during a recent trip to Savannah, GA.

3. My average around town and back/forth to/from work mileage is 16-18mpg.

4. I had HORRIBLE stiction before I switched to this oil. I now have absolutely zero stiction and I never had to use the oil additive I see referred to on this site.

5. It's available at my wal-mart for about $16 a gallon. 4 qts = 1 gallon so $64 for 16 qts. I have 1 qt spare to keep between changes. I also buy the motorcraft filter available at my wal-mart for $18. 64+18= $82 spent. I consider this a good investment to maintain this AWESOME engine.

Shoot me any questions you may have.

 

that is interesting. the rotella isnt a full synthetic though is it?

im going to have to send off some of my 5W40 rotella to be tested and see if the swap to this is worth it.

 

The T-5 I'm using is a synthetic blend so no, it is not a full synthetic.

 

Whats the Ford oil? Is it a part sythetic?

 

definitely subscribed to this one opcorn2:

 

Obsidian, is you truck completely stock??

 

I believe the motorcraft oil is just regular dino oil.

My truck isn't stock. But it's not heavily modified either.

K&N Cold air intake.
Deleted Cat.
Deleted muffler.
Coolant Filter.
Cat ELC coolant.
Diesel Kleen cetane booster every tank.

And a few other cosmetic mods.

 

Original Headgaskets BTW.

 

SWEEET!



Yeah I recently purchased an 07 F350 and been stressed out about the head gaskets and studs. Definitely outta my league. I have really been studying filters, oils etc.. to get the most out of my 6.0. Thanks for all the info.

 

put that stuff on your sig fool!!!

 

Naw man. That is waaayyyyy too big of a sig for my personal preference. It used to be there but I like the picture of my truck more. lol. It's a good pic.

 

Thanks for posting about the Shell Rotella T5 Diesel Oil 10w30. It is a Group II + PAO synthetic blend. It is an EXCELLENT oil for these powerstroke diesels. I have been using it since it first came out several months ago. It performs flawlessly in my 6.0 and better performance and mpg over the 15w40 and even 5w40. It virtually doesn't shear. I've got my neighbors using this oil in their 7.3 and 6.4 and they love it.

Amsoil makes a 10w30 Diesel Oil as well, full synthetic called the ACD, but its much more expensive than the T5 @ 16/gallon at walmart. You can easily run either oil for 5K miles, and likely more.

I've been tempted to try the Amsoil 10w30 next, but can't justify the price over the Shell T5.

This is a great post and should be read by everyone who has a powerstroke, because the Shell T5 10w30 makes a difference in the way these engines perform and how those injectors operate. Awesome stuff:nod:

 

Glad I read all this, I've been researching what oil was better suited for the the 6.0.
Thanks for the heads up!

 

I'll definateoy try it. I just changed oil and used Valvoline premium blue for the first time and i noticed no performance gains and still have a little sticktion going on. The valvoline was 35 bucks a gal! but i had to try it...thumbs down though. I'll use the T-5 next.

 

$35 a Gallon??? I got 8 gallons of Valvoline Extreme Blues Synthetic 5w40 for $169.74 shipped to my door. If you have a NAPA store close check with them. I have seen others buying it there for $24 a gallon. My local O'reilly's had the non-synthetic for $13.99 they said they could order some synthetic for $26.99.

 

I'm thinking about trying the Amsoil 10w30 next go round. If it is stable it should go extended. It starts with a TBN of 12 and uses no viscosity improvers to shear down. It's $10 a gallon cheaper than their 5w40 too so that right there will save me $40.

 

Did you try that Amsoil ACD out? I still haven't, still with the shell T5, but I think I'll hit up the amsoil ACD next oil change to see if there is any difference.

 

To anyone with the stiction, just change your oil RIGHT NOW to this. Let us know how it goes. Seriously, it stopped my stiction immediately.

 

I just spent over a hundred bucks on this oil, I may change it early but it's only been in there 200 miles...

 

Ok newb question... What exactly is stiction? and how is it detected?

 

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