I get my bag filters locally at Grainger Industrial Supply . You can order them from numerous places online also.

 

:tard: dunno why i didnt think of them, and ive even got a catalog of theirs on my desk!

 

I buy a box of 20 at a time. I think that equals to about 4 - 5 bucks per filter.

 

how long do you use each one for and how do you know when to change? and can you wash 'em out like with dawn or something else thats easy on stuff but still cuts grease/oil.

found 'em kinda cheap on Filterbags.com - Liquid Filter Bag Housings and Filter Bags. the housings are EXPENSIVE!

 

Ya the housings are high as giraffe nuts !!! I just let my sack hang:hehe:... um well it hangs through the opening of one of my 330 gallon totes that I use. I can usually get a couple hundred gallons of oil through one before I throw it away. Make sure you heat your oil (125+ plus so it will flow better). I know you can clean them out using some dawn or degreaser that you have laying around the station :wink[3]:, I just haven't messed with it yet. Working 3 jobs and 24 - 48 schedule keeps me busy:tard:

 

well I dont have a way to heat it yet, i dont know of an old water heater I can use, what about getting the heating element out of one and puttin it in the bottom of my barrel?

 

That's how I heat my oil. I welded a 1" steel coupling from Lowe's plumbing section a couple of inches from the bottom of my 55 gallon drum. The heating elements will thread into the 1" coupling, then I used a old extension cord to plug it into 110.

 

My barrel is plastic though.........

 

Will your barrel fit in the microwave:rofl: ??? You can just drop a heating element in from the top.

 

Just FYI. DP mag is doing a article about the whole idea next month.

 

Here: Diesel Engines, Performance Parts, Biodiesel Trucks, & Cars - Diesel Power Magazine ?

 

I've thought seriously of getting into a WMO filtering system.

My design would be a recirculating pump filtering system using a pump, fairly cheap fuel filter heads, ball valves and 20 micron dual oil filters, 10 and 2 micron fuel filters and an Amsoil oil bypass filter.

The filtering concept would be to have all filters in parallel and flow controlled by the ball valves, which would be installed on the input and output of each filter head.

I'd filter for an hour or so using the 20 micron oil filters to get the biggest junk out, then an hour on the 10 micron, an hour on the 2 micron and then an hour or so on the 2 micron and the Amsoil bypass filters operating in parallel.

Output from the filters would just go right back into the collection barrel, which would have a bottom valve outlet to get the really big crap and water out before filtering. Pump could be on a timer (which I already have) so it would be a "leave it and forget it" type operation while filtering

After the final filtering run using the 2 micron and the Amsoil bypass, I'd run the WMO into another barrel that would be used to refuel my truck, or I could just pump it in directly into my aux fuel tank.

A 20 micron oil filters are pretty cheap and it would take out the lion's share of the crap, especially after running through it 5-10 times. Same with the other filters.

Cost: 2 fuel filter heads at $25 each (I already have a dual remote oil filter base/head), 1 Amsoil bypass filter head at $35, filters at $10-$12 each, plus a $40 bypass filter, plus 8 ball valves ($10 each?), plus plumbing and the pump. Call it $300 or so. At $3/gallon, I would money ahead after 100 gallons (approximately 2 barrels).

Comments?

Al

 

Sounds like it will be a very nice setup

 

i do not understand multiple filters...makes no sense and is more costly.
If your heating and settling you will get out 90% of all the junk in the oil and then a final filter to 5 microns is all you need. Settling is the only way to effectively get out water and by chance you will get alot of particle matter out at the same time.
Looke at my filtration set up on this forum section...its a sticky at the top.

 

So if i let the oil settle and use my water separator/filter and 5 micron filter I should be fine with a 1 micron filter bag?

What would be a cheap way I could heat the oil without getting an old water heater? i have a plastic barrel, so is there anything I can have imersed in the oil and not touching the plastic?

Pics of my set-up so far are in first post.

 

I don't know if there's any truth to it or not (so don't shoot the messenger:shoot, but my buddy who is running SVO on a 12-valve cummins is using old blue jeans to do his first filtering. I think he said it takes it down to between 2-5 microns........something to think about with your old jeans.:dunno:

 

Clay, he's talking about Waste Motor Oil not WVO so your setup is probably not the best in this case.

If I was inclined to use WMO I would filter it via whatever method suits you down to about 5 micron and then run it through a centrifuge to clean it up before burning it. I wouldn't want anything in WMO burning in my motor. Other opinions may vary.

 

Clay, he's talking about Waste Motor Oil not WVO so your setup is probably not the best in this case.

Yes i realize this and the basic fundamentals are no different. Water is heavier than oil...be it vegi oil or petro oil. Heat and settle it and the water will go to the bottom along with any particulate mater...in this case instead of that being flour and corn meal, its lead and iron particles.
Heat it, settle it, drain off the lower couple gallons and filter.
My setup would work fine for this.

 

Uh oh this might get good:hehe:

 

:dunno::dunno:

 

I dump diesel trough my bag filters after the oil. That rinses all the oil out so I can use them more times.

 

Been working everyday for the past week and a half and will do so until turkey day, so havent had much tome to mess with this.

i got a heater at tractor supply but it only turns on at 40*F so imma takin it back to get one that claims to get water to 150* plus and upwards of boiling. only kicker is its prolly gonna be after turkey day when it will be here and i wanna run the WMO when i go home on t-day, sooooooooo heres my Q:

will the increase in temperature allow the filters to take MORE outta the oil or just do it EASIER?

also, how much bigger should i drill the discharge hole out on the last filter head?

 

If I was to mix WMO in with diesel 50/50 or less would I need a fuel heater on my truck. I wouldn't want fuel gelling or anything because I'm trying to save a buck.

I'm interested in burning WMO because I have access to plenty of it but what are the drawbacks and benefits?

 

Yes, this is one drawback to using a thicker oil in the tank. Your fuel pump will not like it and it will suffer a premature death. You will save some money on fuel but you will buy a new fuel pump ever 20k miles or so....

 

I'm thinking I will have to uipgrade a think or too before I do this. That and I need to gather some supplies like a 55 gal drum from work, fittings, pump, filters. Untill then I'm going to keep looking into this.
Would an air dog help with the failing pumps or would that have failure too?

 

If you are talking about replacing your factory fuel pump then yes the Air Dog will last longer and flow better than the factory. Lifetime warranty also. When my FASS goes out next time I am going to replace it with a Raptor pump. Not to put down FASS because they have treated me very well :thumb: but I think I will try the Raptor next.

PureFlow Technologies

 

i'm not familiar with the air dog.

 

I drilled the discharge hold out to 1/2", plumbed everything and am just waiting of my heater!

originally bought this:
Tractor Supply Company - Allied Sinking De-icer

but then found this:
Tractor Supply Company - Allied Bucket Heater
and they said it was "out of season" so I have to wait till tomorrow or MAYBE friday

 

but then found this:
Tractor Supply Company - Allied Bucket Heater
and they said it was "out of season" so I have to wait till tomorrow or MAYBE friday

I just bought one of those on Amazon for 24 bucks plus 5 dollars shipping.

 

well i made it the 250miles up here. milage seems 'bout the same, and im gonna venture to say she runs a lil better also. smoother & quieter and seems to start easier which im amazed by. its about 45degrees here now and i cycled plugs and she fired right up.

i know this aint near enough miles to get a good feel for how she does but so far so good. my fuel cost up here was cut in half so im happy!

 

250 miles? Don't worry, I'm at about the 250 gallon mark. I've basically replaced diesel with WMO, I still have about 175 gallons in drums. My mileage went up about 1 or 2 per gallon overall.

I can tell that my mix is going to have to be dramatically cut back during the winter. I get the chugs/romps when I start up when it is 50 degrees or below, even with a 50/50 mix. During the summer, I run 100%, but then again the air temp is over 90 degrees. I may just take mass transit to work all winter, maybe I'll do only 25% oil.

The pump I use is the marine grade aeromotive pump. I can hear the pump making noise and pulls a high vacuum when it is cold out, but after the truck starts, the pump settles down.

If I know I'm going to do some longer highway driving, like to the Poconos and back, I'll use a steep mix even in cold weather since the pump doesn't have much problems once the oil mix is warmed up from the recirculated fuel.

Periodically, I run a tank of pump diesel to clean things out. I do my best to get to at least the low fuel light before I fill up at least half way. I suppose I could add diesel additive to my WMO mix this winter.

 

what kind of additive?

 

Whatever diesel fuel additive for winter use. I got a gallon of it at Napa a while ago but haven't used any.

 

Does WMO damage the injectors? I can get free WMO and filter it in with my WVO (which costs me $1/gal). If it doesn't have deleterious effects on the engine it's free fuel for me. What's the arguement not to use it??
thanks

 

Do you like breathing clean air?
Oh and mixing vegi and motor oil is a bad bad idea.

 

The way it sounds the only down side is buying a new fuel pump every couple years