Cool glad it gave you outstanding results. Same results with my 7.3 at 200k, 240k, and other at 400k. No sludge... non synthetic delo.


“Don’t overthink something simple people... ..:sigh:..”

 

Don’t overthink something simple people... ..:sigh:..”

There are so many positives with synthetic oils DC. Theres nothing to over think here, synthetic doesn't have the acidic nature from natural oil.

All good points @mhatlen but he wasn't necessarily saying the bolded parts about this topic that's just his signature. I've noticed a few people didn't realize it right away, myself included haha

 

There are so many positives with synthetic oils DC. Theres nothing to over think here, synthetic doesn't have the acidic nature from natural oil. Ash is lower it shears much better than natural oil and a real big one is synthetic doesn't cause any problems with all the rubbers and o-ring materials that we have in our engines. Natural petroleum oils do play a role in damaging the rubbers because the oils are petroleum based as well and can damage them over time.

There are not any good reasons to stay with straight petroleum natural oils. Science has come so far with the oils that we use today and we are producing better all the time as the days click by.
Go with FAKE oil its truly better in every way you compare it, except for the price. LOL


I'm all out of babble but there are so many articles and data that is available on the synthetics, take some time to learn about the differences. We are on a different level when you compare what was being produced even 10 years ago. Look at what we used in the 60's, 70's, 80's . Oils today are in the metals at startup today so far better than years ago. Yea there is lots to think about and its all good.

 

Spending a little money now, saves a whole lot of money later.

 

There are Many reasons to use Synthetic Oil.

Low viscosity options.
Superior tolerance to heat ranges.
It costs more so you "feel good" about treating your engine better.

I use it myself


But it is most often the answer to the nonexistent problem. All oils have changed significantly in the the past 20yrs and I'm absolutely sure that those engine internals would look exactly the same if you had used good Dino Oil with regular changes...

 

New owner here first diesel I'm at about 25 miles right now.
I plan on having mine serviced at the dealer, Do they use decent oil?

 

Most dealers are udsing the 15W/40 oil today still. Which was as good as it came in 2003. As time passed these oil makers have made advances and the new 5W/40 synthetic is much better with our injectors because of being a thinner oil that has higher pressure capabilities and is not acidic or have the ash you see in natural oil.

Injectors run better with the 5W/40 and stiction issues are often reduced or eliminated when using it. That said the 15W/40 will be fine just not quite at same level. At all LOL Kidding its ok

Some dealers have gone to the 5W/40 ask them.

 

I may finally make the switch to synthetic oil unfortunately lol. It is 0-10 degrees for most of the winter and only about 85-95 in summer for about 3 months then back under 60s before winter and I don’t drove my truck more then 5-7k a year last two years.

15w-40 at minus 10 sounds nasty for a few minutes but I have always been too cheap to run synthetic plus at 19 years I never wanted to risk it loosening up junk and then diagnosing leaks that have been bandaided forever hahaha.

Any of you noticed an increase in current leaks or development of new leaks after 20 years of delo then switching to synthetic?

 

Over 150K on mine, no sludge at all when I took the valve covers off to change the injectors. I have always used regular 15w40 and changed it every 5K.

 

All good points, also to mention synthetic burns off heat faster as well as being able to withstand alot more of it before its performance suffers and starts to break down quicker. Its a good match for a diesel engine that typically runs hot

 

subscribed, this seems like a very interesting thread

 

There was a recent exchange between myself and a 7.3 owner that had Blackstone reports on his T6 sample. He had higher wear metals than both the Universal Averages and my 7.3 that uses Delo 15/40. He may have had air filtration issues which will increase wear metal indications, and it wasn't the T6 oil. I have also seen other discussions where the wear metals were more in samples with synthetic oils, than in engines operated under similar conditions with dino oils.

I'm a good client of Blackstone's. I send lots of samples for my clients' yacht engines. Perhaps I'll ask them if they could give me a mini-comparison of synthetic vs dino oils in 7.3's. Like five of each. But my UOA's don't lie. I have very good numbers with dino oil, even with a change interval that is about twice what most peeps here run. No one has convinced me otherwise that I need to spend twice as much for oil and get increased wear over what I'm using now.

 

Here is my latest UOA using Rotella T6 5W40. The main reasoning for using syn oils is improved flashpoint, TBN, viscosity endurance and the ability to extend oil changes, as we all know time is money. Mercedes has extended oil changes to 10000 miles which is 3x dino oil changes and ~2 man hours, not to mention increased hazmat containment requirements and recycling.

 

Also subscribed. Interested in following this discussion.
I work for an ambulance service that has both gas & diesels in their fleet, ever since Ford stop making the E450 chassis.
Those older 7.3's were a beast, 6.0 turbo were ok. The new Transits that are powered by 2 3 legged hamsters are real dogs.
Back to the point, Our fleet uses synthetic for both gas & diesels. I used it in my last 11 F250 gas and will almost certainly use it in my 13 F350 6.7

 

99.5 350- 206k- I have run Rotella 15/40 dino almost exclusively since new. 5k intervals. Had a look at the bottom end when changing the pan and it was amazingly clean with crosshatch clearly visible on the cylinder surface. Under the valve covers was the same- looking almost new.
I did switch to synthetic 5/40 with the new Alliant injectors and I must admit it is quieter at idle and very smooth. I swithced due to the availability and more reasonable cost of the synthetic these days. In the early 2000's there was not many choices as we have now.
I believe if you do the changes when they are due and run these trucks as much and often as possible- don't sit, good quality dino is fine.
Cold or very hot climate and or heavy towing- synthetic all the way. If you can easily afford the difference- synthetic all the way.
I was doing 150+ miles a day back then so I was changing oil every 5-6 weeks, double cost for synthetic would add up quick so I ran the Rotella dino - with good results.

 

2007 6.0, 185k

10k-12k oil change interval with commercial grade synthetic oil(RP Duralec).......no issues. RP swears our engine can run 20k between changes with that oil and a new filter at 10k......

 

For what it's worth, Advance Auto has Shell Rotella T5 Synth blend for $13.99 a gallon! That's almost 50% off.