The 11-12 turbos were problematic that's about it. And it wasn't that bad...

 

Turbos had ceramic bearings. Valve seats would fall out.

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Thanks guys, is the valve seats falling out a major concern or just something that would occasionally happen? Would it be fair to assume that's a costly repair? And is there any way to test if they are going bad? What about the turbo, is there any easy tests to make sure it's in good condition?

 

I believe it was only up to a specific build date of the 2011's that had the valve seat problem. At least that's what I remember reading somewhere. The turbos can be upgraded to the later models.

 

From what I’ve gathered the majority of the valve failures were on build dates earlier than April 2011, so if you can look on the door tag and see what the build date is that might help your decision, doesn’t mean it still can’t happen but I believe they switched valves or manufacturers after they found the issue so I’m assuming that was around April 2011, the turbos are problematic if they have been romped on bad, I would pull a oasis report on the, and see what was/wasn’t maintained and go with it. And like G8orFord said you can do direct drop I. 2015+ turbo swap and adjust tuning and then you have a solid platform

 

This is all true. Look for a build date of later than 4/2011 and you will be good. My truck has a build date of 8/2010, and I have almost 200,000 on the stock turbo. Always pulling heavy. Maybe driving them hard helps. I would only worry about the valves. The turbo won’t likely cause catastrophic failure like the valves. And it was a very small percentage with valve issues.


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Thanks guys, I looked at a couple yesterday and I think I might pick up the 2011 CCLB tomorrow!

If the build date is before April 2011, if I have a valve failure and decide to fix it would it be able to be fixed right to eliminate the issue or am I stuck with that valve design based on the block?

Also assuming that I'm not going to tune this truck, is there any reason to monitor the vitals on it? I already have a Edge Insight CTS 2 for my '06, not sure if I should let it go with the truck when I sell it or put it in the 2011.

 

IF you have a valve failure you will be putting in a new motor they don’t just bend or break off leaving only valves to be replaced when they go they typically break the tips of the glow plugs off and then chew up piston,cylinders,etc,etc. look @ pics above posted by LOX diesel, but as mentioned LOTS of people with pre 4/11 trucks with many miles and still going, pull oasis reports and check, maybe get fords ESP? if you get one and it’s not deleted I would delete and tune especially being up in Camano island don’t think there’s emissions up there

 

Sounds good! And yeah there's no emissions up here thankfully. I do remember hearing about the glow plugs which brings me to another question. When letting the truck cycle I'm used to my 6.0 and hearing the clatter of the injectors but on the one 6.7 that I popped the hood on it sounded like squealing, is that normal?

As for deleting and tuning, my SCT X4 that I have for the 6.0 should work on the 6.7, right? Also my mind goes to a hack saw to cut out the DPF, is it more involved than that? I heard of a few people spending a few thousand dollars to delete their trucks but I never asked what all went into it.

 

Not sure on the squealing sound that could very well be the turbo going out, ya these don’t have the clatter of the injectors like a 7.3/6.0 does since they were oil fired,these are electronically fired and send more or quicker pilot shots vs the main shot of fuel which makes them very quiet, as for deleting it depends on what tuneryou would use(not sure if your current SCT would work) but the delete block off plates are a $150(+/-) the DPF exhaust is a few hundred and just unbolts the biggest fist wheendeleting is the tuning platform, if you do a SCT style platform with tunes, block off plates and DPF back exhaust your less than 1k if you do the work yourself, my biggest concern would be that squealing you heard I would check build date then check oasis report and maybe have turbo checked

 

The squeal is before start up, right when you turn the key to accessory to cycle the glow plugs. If I leave the key on without starting the truck it does go away after a little bit which has me wandering if it's electrical / tied to the glow plugs.

 

My memory could be failing me listening to a ton of 6.7 squeeling videos lol, but it sounded pretty close to this just with the engine off.

 

From watching a million cold start videos it almost sounds like that is just a normal sound for these trucks during the glow plug cycle? Can anyone confirm?

 

This one was built in Sept. 2010 so well within the range of having the valve seat issue. Is there any way to test "in the field" if everything is good with it / is there a tell tale sign that it might give me issues soon?

 

the squeal is the the lift pump, its normal. its just pressurizing/bleeding air

 

Thank you. Knowing that as far as I (just another guy who knows next to nothing about trucks) can see everything seems alright minus it being an early build date, would you still spend the money on it or spend more money to get the newer truck?

This truck according to insurance has $8900 of body damage to it so the owner took that off the KBB value and that's what their selling it for. In reality it's a tailgate cap (maybe a whole new tailgate but it didn't look that bad to me), a front bumper (just to be in perfect condition but it's just a small dent in the center) and a pretty bad crease in the bed side at the bottom. Unless insurance is saying that the truck needs a new tailgate which I know for these trucks are dumb expensive, I have a hard time seeing that fixing that crease would cost in excess of $7k. Either way it's not worth $7k to me to get it done, so it would be left alone as it's not a huge deal.

And I did look at the insurance quote and the paperwork they got with the police report and everything revolving around the issue. Talking to them basically what happened is someone scraped the bedside and left no information and they did the damage to the tailgate by having it up while hooking up a goose neck (they hauled horses to and from events with this truck), and they showed me pictures where they hit a pole in a parking lot to damage the front bumper.

Again everything seems solid to me, but I'm not a professional at this and the only thing really that worries me is the early build date possibly having a valve failure, especially beings that this truck has 139k miles.

 

Any last thoughts? Going out in about an hour to go pick it up.

 

You can get complete bed and tailgate for $3k from many salvages, and have your choice of color sometimes


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I think I can repair this one for under $3k. It's just a crease in the bed side but again I don't think that's my priority with $3k.

 

Pfft...I'd probably just leave it. It's a truck, not a show car.

 

That's the way I see it. The tailgate trim is cheap so I'll do that and I might have to fix the bumper to get the front plate on there, but I'm not going to spend too much money on the bed.

 

The bumpers straighten out easy, and that is literally the best “damaged” bumper possible. Easy peasy


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That squeal sounds exactly like my wastegate solenoid did. If you put a stethoscope on it it will be obvious. Its to the passenger side of the alternator right under the EGR valve/intercooler pipe. A new one is like $54 and very easy to change.

 

I'm one of you guys now!

 

Which do I buy now?!?!




Sorry,

Not to high-jack this thread or anything, Congrats BTW for getting the new ride--very sweet, but I was lead to believe that the 2008-2012 were to be avoided like the plague? In hindsight, I am not realizing I don't remember who said that and they didn't justify it with any facts. Is it the 6.4 08-10 models that should be avoided?

I ask because (some will recognize) I am truck shopping and although the 03-07 6.0's have tons of high priced issues, they are known and can be monitored, so I was looking in that vain. But I do love the 11-12 body style and interior.

I would potentially spend the extra money for the 6.7 if they are a little more reliable, i.e.: just worry about the turbo and maybe proactively swap it for peace of mind and then just have a bigger payment (I have to finance, no choice in that matter.)

The 6.0 forum has been SUPER helpful in my research but I do love the 6.7's as well.

Now I'm totally conflicted! LOL

Thanks everyone. Again, congrats on the new truck!

 

Welcome to the flock!!

 

Nice-looking truck. How much did it set you back?


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Thanks guys! After Uncle Same intervened I'm into it $25k even. After looking at my bank account, now I understand why people finance lol. That's a lot of money to leave at once but I'm a big fan of the buy once cry once idea.

 

You did pretty good. These trucks are virtually worry-free. If you drop a valve, you can have a good used engine bought and installed for under $10k. I considered getting UCF heads for my spare engine, since it is an early build with 159,000.


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Congrats! Good looking truck. They are pulling beasts and you will love the power. The inside is also a nice upgrade.

Tom

 

Congrats on the new set up!