Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum banner

wheel spacer question

1 reading
20K views 14 replies 6 participants last post by  Billy231  
#1 ·
#2 ·
DO NOT. Cheap spacers and a heavy diesel do not mix. You'll break the studs I guarantee it.
Spend the money on a quality pair, BORA from motorsport tech are great, lifetime warranty no questions asked. I'm running them on my truck and they have been on there for a while without issue. And I'm running 2" on 22x14 with a -76mm offset, so they get worked.
Great guys to deal with. Give them a call
 
  • Like
Reactions: Billy231
#4 ·
I second this post! and I'm also running Motorsport tech stahl steel 2" spacers. What makes the difference is the lifetime warrantee!!!
You're not getting that from anything on eBay!
This is one item you don't want to skimp on. For what it's worth, after my install, at 75mph, truck rides awesome. Zero balance issues, you will get that unbalanced sensation with other cheapo spacers and it'll drive you nuts trying to diagnose it.
 
#3 ·
Wouldn't most of the weight be on the center of the spacer instead of the studs since it is a hub centrec wheel and spacer?

Has anyone got the 1.5 inch spacers and trimmed the sock studs down for them to fit? 1.5 inch ones are all I really need and it would be less stress on the bearings, but I don't want to trim the studs down so far that I will need knew ones if I decide to take the spacers off.

Is it okay to use USA made billet aluminum spacers? I found some that are hub centric and come with grade 8 studs.

I just realized that the bora spacers that everyone recommends are also made out of billet aluminum. what makes the so much beter than other billet aluminum spacers such as these 2" Ford Diesel 2004 Up F250 350 Hub Centric Wheel Spacers Adapters Superduty | eBay.
 
#5 ·
#6 ·
Would 2 inch wheel spacers rub on the fenders with stock wheels 35x12.50 tires and a 4 inch lift? I did some measuring and it looks like it would be close, the tires currently rub on the leaf springs at full lock and I know wheel spacers will fix this problem.

I got a set from Performance Wheel Adapters and I have been using them over 3 years now with no problems at all.
 
#7 ·
I got a set from Performance Wheel Adapters and I have been using them over 3 years now with no problems at all.
Have you been doing much towing? Did you buy the 2 for the front, and the specifically for the rear? My dad gave me the wheels from his 2017 platinum and I’m wanting to put them on my 2004. I’ve been researching the wheel spacers, and I’ve been pretty confused about how the rear wheels are supposed to be hub centric if the wheel spacers don’t have the wheel centric lip? Thanks.
 
#12 ·
Yes I got separate ones for the front and rear, they are hub centric and fit tight with no issues, the ones for the rear will fit the front but the front ones won't slide over the rear without taking the axle shafts out. I have towed thousands of miles with them and even moved a friends 20,000+ lb construction trailer full of junk around on his farm with no issues, while moving it the tires on the trailer busted in the middle of the field and It sunk down in a foot of mud and is still sitting there to this day. My truck pulling it with my winch on the front maxed out and a tractor pushing It from behind would't move it so we just left it, the spacers on the truck held up just fine.
 
  • Like
Reactions: oxymoron6618
#10 ·
Simple answers will be on every manufacturer website as well as probably a hundred or so posts here if one can push on the search button. I myself have answered this question more times then I care to think of.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I don't want simple answers. I want specifics about how my rear wheels are supposed to ride fixed on the lugs when there is play between the wheel and hub. What I find on the manufacturer's website and using the search function is telling me that the oem wheels will still be hub centric on my factory hub, even with a 2 inch spacer on it. This doesn't make any sense to me, because I measured the circumference of the hub 2" out from the rotor surface and it measured ~122mm, whereas the wheel I.D. has a circumference of 124.9mm. Is that ~3mm wiggle enough to be worried about? I'm interested in hearing from someone who runs new style OEM wheels with spacers on a 1999-2004 truck, or has installed these.
 
#11 ·
That would be me. My truck is shown in my profile. 1999 F250 with 2013 F350 oem wheels and 275/70-18 tires.
Using OEM wheels you’ll need hub centric spacers 2” (to clear oem wheel studs)
The brand I used was Stahl Steel brand. You’ll have to research that name on Google. I cannot find the info anymore but I had questions and actually called and spoke with a tech guy who helped me out. I have 20k+ miles with them and always run highway speeds with zero issues and no rubbing of tires using mentioned size.
I just did a search here under our year trucks with wheel spacer topic and there is numerous posts from myself and others from years ago. Good luck, they aren’t cheap but needed for front and rear. If you’re getting these wheel/tire set up for free or real cheap it’s prob worth it otherwise price out aftermarket wheels with tires you’ll like. I wish I had gone that route because there are some really nice wheels out there available now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

FYI, I just scrolled back on this thread all the way to 2016. All the good manufacturers websites and names are listed and you can call directly like I did and ask away. They were helpful. Hard to understand what you’re saying or experiencing without a pic but you’ll need a set of 4 hub centric with raised ring to seat the OEM rim properly as you mentioned.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#13 ·
Thanks for the detail, your truck looks great. Also, that’s a real unicorn you’ve got there with as few as miles as that! My dad gave me his 2017 platinum take-offs for “free.fifty” with brand new 275-65-20 Michelin’s. I’m just trying to figure out the rear wheel situation. The spacers will be hub centric, but not wheel centric?

FYI, I just scrolled back on this thread all the way to 2016. All the good manufacturers websites and names are listed and you can call directly like I did and ask away. They were helpful. Hard to understand what you’re saying or experiencing without a pic but you’ll need a set of 4 hub centric with raised ring to seat the OEM rim properly as you mentioned.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Did your rear wheel spacers have the raised ring as well? Thanks!

Yes I got separate ones for the front and rear, they are hub centric and fit tight with no issues, the ones for the rear will fit the front but the front ones won't slide over the rear without taking the axle shafts out. I have towed thousands of miles with them and even moved a friends 20,000+ lb construction trailer full of junk around on his farm with no issues, while moving it the tires on the trailer busted in the middle of the field and It sunk down in a foot of mud and is still sitting there to this day. My truck pulling it with my winch on the front maxed out and a tractor pushing It from behind would't move it so we just left it, the spacers on the truck held up just fine.
Need a little dozer to pull that sucker out lol. Good to know your spacers are holding up! Are the billet aluminum or steel? Thanks.
 
#14 ·
Need a little dozer to pull that sucker out lol. Good to know your spacers are holding up! Are the billet aluminum or steel? Thanks.
They are aluminum.
 
  • Like
Reactions: oxymoron6618
#15 ·
Did your rear wheel spacers have the raised ring as well? Thanks!
I’m pretty sure they all had the ring on them. I’ve swapped wheels front to back for tire rotations with no issues.
Try calling the company they were good to work with.
My truck as you see sits somewhat level. I used PMF shackle leveling kit (2”) the tires I have are approx 33” tall. I only rub plastic fender well on left inner on full left lock but ever so slightly.
With your tires you are probably just as close in height. Might be an issue there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk