Wheels 30-40, tires 50+...not sure 100%....

 

Tirerack has the tires at 57 lbs I believe (maybe 58).
I imagine the wheels are at least 40 since most aftermarket truck wheels of this size are in the 35-45+ weight range.

 

Are you here to answer your own questions too???

 

LOL
If I could I wouldn't of asked.
Stock wheels are usually on the heavy side compared to aftermarket but I'd still like to know exact weight as I'm a fan of dropping rotational weight in wheels/tires rather than adding it. I know it's not the same worry on this big diesel trucks but still if the stockers are 35 lbs, I don't want to put on 45 lbs wheels. Almost no good comes from adding rotational weight to your wheels/tires, but dropping rotational weight is all good.

 

Almost no good comes from adding rotational weight to your wheels/tires, but dropping rotational weight is all good.

Please show us the data you have to support this statement.

 

Who are you Jack Dorsey?
As a "super moderator" you've not been so welcoming.
You are free to do your own research and get your own first hand experience on increasing rotational mass and the effects it has on accelerating, braking, turning, and stress on suspension and steering components among other things, as well as the benefits of lowering rotational mass a bit too. I'm not your professor.
Do me a favor, stay off my posts from now on unless you have something helpful, positive and constructive to say.

 

By reducing the weight if your tires/wheels, you'll also be reducing the un-sprung weight of the truck. This could help improve traction and wheel rebound, but may also reduce the ability of your truck's un-sprung mass to absorb small impacts, like a washboarded or heavy gravel road. Considering this, I would think reducing your wheel/tire weight should improve your truck's street performance, but it may reduce its off-road ride comfort to some degree.

Are you looking for one result more than the other?

 

Hey Henry, appreciate your reply.
I got the rig for towing mainly. A month ago I also bought a SxS and a trailer to go with it, and am in the market now for a 26-30 foot travel trailer (possibly fifth wheel but haven't decided) for family outings and other stuff.
I have other vehicles for the off-roading part, the truck is more for the street tow and light duty off roading...dirt roads mainly on the way to a campsite.

As a former drag racer and tuning enthusiast (nearly every vehicle I've owned, which is extensive LOL) I'm more in tune with the benefits of lower rotational mass on the performance side of things than ride. So thanks for the quick refresher about ride affects. Sure if you have 50 lbs wheels stock and put on skinnies that way 20 lbs you'll have too stiff springs for that. But as stated in the OP and in follow up example, I'm more interested in knowing the weight of the stock wheels so when I do put aftermarket wheels on I can lower the weight a bit if possible (5 or so pounds). I'm going to hit up one of my buddies today at Discount and have him pull a wheel/tire, and stick it on the scale. I know the weight of the tires via tire rack, so it's pretty simple math to get the weight of the wheel. I'll have to make minor guesstimate (probably a pound) adjustment for the 11k miles on the tires, but it'll be close enough to be within a half pound or so.
Cheers Henry

 

Jack Dorsey hasn't done anything here. BTW I'm not suppressing your opinion or question. If you want your opinion to be treated as facts you need to give more information/data. With all that you really haven't mentioned the real reason you want to know these weights. I'm surprised to see someone with SO much "experience" not willing to give the deep dive into what you are trying to achieve. Most people want more towing capability, some want ride improvement.....etc etc etc All of these are important factors to give better info to give the best answer. Give me 1% of your problem I can only answer for that 1%......


I was asking to have you share the information with other people who may read the post. Since you really don't want to share the info you tend to start to fall into the company of people we don't want here. I bet you will stay here for quite awhile.....do what you want. If you don't like my responses then don't reply to them. If you don't want to be here anymore then go. No one is going to miss you.

When you realize we are here to help EVERYONE, and share information OPENLY you will see people who hide behind their opinions don't last too long.


Not to mention I highly doubt you can show any significant change with wheels that weight 5 lbs less than the current wheel you use. Add to that the possibility of dropping 5 lbs off the wheel but adding it back with different tires for the intended use.

So in the end......what are you trying to accomplish?? What's the goal???

 

Bottom line, as stated in the first post, I'm a numbers guy.
I also stated in follow up posts that when I put aftermarket wheels on as I do with every vehicle I own, I always like to lower the rotational mass rather than increase it, as their are plenty of benefits in doing so, versus the opposite.
I should have the weight of the wheels in a matter of a couple hours, and as I do with all my testing, share the info on the forums for those who are interested or just curious.

 

Hey just to bring you into our world .....most of us are numbers guys too. So you just want lighter weight wheels.....got it.

 

FYI: Method wheel 305 NV HD series load rating 4,500lbs: 17"x9: 29.9 lbs, 18"x9: 35lbs
305 NV series load rating 3,640 lbs: 20"x9: 38 lbs

 

I'll update my original post, but the stock 20 x 8 inch wheels on the 2016 F-250 Platinum weigh approx. 40 lbs.
The stock front wheels/tires weighed in at 96.6 lbs with 11,350 miles on them.
The rears were a bit more worn so I weighed just the fronts.
If you add 1 pound to that for lost weight in the minor amount of tread lost during that 11k miles, the total would be 97.6 lbs.
Tirerack lists the stock Michelin tires at 58 lbs.
That means the stock wheels weigh 39.5-40.0 lbs.

 

The numbers for the Methods are from them when I called their office.

Let's just say the OE numbers are what is stated as above. On a 20" aftermarket wheel you save 1.5lbs, if you dropped to a 18" wheel saves roughly 5 lbs, and a 17" wheel saves roughly 10 lbs.

 

The lightest 20 x 9 wheels I've found so far are about 33-35 lbs. However most are in the 37-44 lbs range.
Issue with going 18" is the smaller tires. They don't seem to make many 34" or so tall stock diameter tire in 18" size.
I wouldn't mind going a bit taller 34.5" but almost all the 18" tires are 32-33" tall. That's too small for this big truck.
Any tire above the 34" height in 18" size is notably heavier than the stock 58 lbs. Many as much as 5-10 lbs more. The tire is where the weight savings or penalty really matter most, so I'm not willing to add that much weight to the tires.

I found I like the Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo 3
Not only is the tread pattern REALLY nice looking, but it happens to be 51 lbs in stock 275/65/20 inch size. That's a 7 lbs drop from stock just the tires. The reviews so far are quite good on them too. Tirerack has them rated #7 of 26 in the category. The ones rated higher, range in weight (none less than the Revo 3's) and don't seem to look as good as these Bridgestones. Top rated tires are important to me, but 7 out of 26 is still very good. I wouldn't go with anything lower than 10-12 in that category just to save weight or for looks either.

Now if I can choose from a wheel that's 35-40 lbs, I'd be happy with that 7-12 lbs weight loss each corner and having the less common look of individualized aftermarket wheels/tires.

 

I run Toyo RTs in LT285/75R18 (no weight listed, maybe 66 lbs?)...speedo isn't even off. If anything it's closer to GPS over stock tires/wheels for what that's worth. Nitto Ridge Graps will be my next tires to run in LT285/75/18 @ 69.5 lbs per tire.

So I'd say I'm at 100+lbs (101-105) per tire. If 20"s stock is 58(tires)+ 40(OE wheel)= 98lbs...I'm not too concerned to save 7 lbs per tire.
With my 18" setup I'm closer to GPS speed, have more weight carrying capability (by specs), better ride comfort, and better traction if needed off the roadway.

I'll always recommend Toyo and Nittos. Yes, there are different Toyo/Nitto flavors, some I would definitely avoid (Open Country CT, Mud Grapps, Dune Grapps,) but I've never had issues with either brand.

Not sure that saving 14lbs per tire/wheel combo (using your numbers) is really going to make big changes to anything in the big picture. Which is why I try to understand what you want to achieve. I'm not going to convince your plans are wrong....just want to understand the reasoning.

 

I agree that the 18" wheels have more sidewall so it offers a more comfortable ride, personally I wish they offered 19" wheels for these trucks. I'd be interested in that.
I'll look at the Toyos and Nittos
I've known of them for a long time, but never off-road.
The weight thing is just ingrained in me. I come from a racing and tuning background.
As I stated in my OP, I know with a 7,500 pound truck dropping 10 lbs per wheel rotational mass means very little.
But it's hard to change the way you think and feel after 30 years of racing cars and trying to lower mass, especially rotational mass. I'm getting past the racing thing now, sold those cars and just bought a side by side, and aluminum trailer (see I wanted to save the weight over the steel one and paid $600 more for it), this F250 and looking at travel trailers now too, to chill with the kids and be more outdoorsy.

 

Well there's nothing wrong with saving weight. Rotational mass is a whole different aspect. Anyone can create a light weight wheel but it might not be structurally sound, could have roundness issues.....not to mention all the same things apply to the tires. Then you still have to match the wheels and tires together hoping they don't take 4+ oz of wheel weights to balance out. The best I've ever seen was my Toyo tires with Weld wheels.....no more than 1oz on any wheel.