Good info. I'll pull mine on the next oil change and see what I find. Mine is a Fumoto. Might try to get a depth measurement and just trim the threads to flush with the oil pan.

 

Good info, thanks for sharing.

I am definitely interested in what others with the valve find out. I have the Fumoto block drain valves and have been considering the oil drain valve for quite sometime, but I might rethink that.

 

Humm interesting info, i will check also.

 

I'm sorry but this is the stupidest thing I've read today. Once you put new oil in the truck it's going to mix with whatever residual oil is left over. Thats like saying the HPOP oil in a 7.3 will turn to sludge because it's not drained out.

 

Same with the oil cooler cavity on top of the block.

Otherwise.

The oil drain, I would have installed one, but I wouldn't feel comfortable driving around with it protruding at the bottom of my truck. All it would take is something to snag it, rip it out, and I would be potentially stranded with no oil. At least the block drains are concealed by the chassis.

 

maybe so but it gives people something to do if they are bored or just not sure. Hell i check stupid s;;t all the time.

 

Well my drain valve is on the side of the pan so no point in me checking. I took the valve off my 6.4 one time after being on there for 50k miles and there was no sludge

 

I'm saying if you have sludge and metal in the bottom of your oil pan you got bigger problems than a drain valve.

 

And I concur, BUT there is metal and wear particles, no matter how seemingly insignificant, in every oil change. Leaving that in the pan over the long haul, simply allows it to build up and possibly cause issues later on. Isn't that one of the reasons we run oil filters and change the oil to start with?

 

I agree with G8orFord
I think this is a completely valid concern although it's not likely to add up to much of a long tern concern ( IMO) I would rather not hinder the sediment from flowing out of the drain
and telling it's story specially if it is a larger chunk of something

i can see this being an undesirable side effect of the Fumoto not that I run one for other reasons but I appreciate the OP's warning

 

sounds like your stuck with it

i figure running the right oils/filters and change intervals sludge it shouldn't be an issue
but I have heard about the slow flow on cold oil and the downward protrusion of the valve

so i just assume pull the plug

 

I'll never own another vehicle without one especially the 6.7 because some dumba$$ engineer decided to put the drain on the side of the pan vs the bottom and 13 quarts of oil comes out with some distance that will catch you off guard the first time lol. My valve has a 90 degree elbow on it.

 

but you're never getting all the oil out with or without the valve. All the residual oil mixes with the new and is filtered.

 

Ok, whatever you say. Based on your post count, I'll assume you've seen the inside of a few engines, so you know what you're talking about.

 

HUMMM.....Well i can add one thing. My 6.0 has 72,000 and change on it. If you pull the dipstick on my truck the oil is honey colored. Who ever the dumb *** was who put in the owners manual to change your oil every 5,000 miles in my eyes is crazy. Ive got Timewarner bucket trucks running around here with 400,000 plus miles on them and heads never been off them. Oil is like blood is to human, i would rather change the oil more and have less issues. This weekend i tore down a 7.3 with 278,654 miles. He also changes his oil every 3,000 . No issues with this truck at all.He just wanted studs and a Driven Diesel fuel system installed . Motor looked brand new inside. And the cyinders still had cross hires from being honed. So with the 23 years ive been working on them and what ive seen, im sticking to what i do cause proof is in the pudding !

 

this is why i use a magnetic mishimoto plug.

 

my 6.0 oil analysis say 5000 is plenty and I could go longer but wouldn't and it is the severe duty interval not regular

also even with a bypass 2 micron my 6.0 has never had honey colored oil not even after a change it pisses me off but is common

OEM plug is magnetic

 

Changing your oil at 3k miles is just pouring money down the drain. But it's your money so go for it

 

...but with a fumoto valve you're pouring less money down the drain.

 

lol that took me a second to get

 

Well I guess I'm just an idiot. All of you guys with these valves need to remove them ASAP!!! I'll keep mine, it's on the side of the pan. And I guess Bill Hewitt was right after all. Better start changing that HPOP oil where applicable.

 

No concerns with the Fumoto at all. As mentioned, consider all the "old" oil that's left in your engine at an oil change. Even more pointedly, look at the number of oil pans on new vehicles where the drain plug is on the side. I guess the 6.7 crowd needs to drill a hole in the bottom.....

If there's that much gunk in the bottom of the pan, its a result of something other than running a Fumoto valve. Period.

.

 

I tell you what. I really like mine.

 

I noticed that when I installed mine several years ago, just looking at the valve thread length, and the threads in the pan, I knew it was sticking in the pan further.
but I like the convenience, May pay for it later, but like they say you play you pay.

 

I can see how this could propose a problem if you change your oil incorrectly. If you change the oil on a cold engine, all the sediment, deposits, gunk, and metals that were suspended in 15q of oil have had time to settle to the bottom of the pan and remain there after the fluid has been dumped.

If you run your engine up to operating temperature first and dump the oil shorty after turning the vehicle off, all the "bad stuff" should be suspended and floating around. Combine this with hot oil-that will flow at a faster rate-should flush out all the crap that hasn't been filtered.

If you see excessive gunk and gummy substance, you're running crap oil or running well past its life cycle. Modern day quality oils, changed regularly, leave little to no tar or sludge. Modern oils withstand higher temperatures, do not break down as soon (causing oil to solidify), and the detergents do a great job of breaking down the little bit of oil that does solidify.

 

Running up to temp is the only way with the Fumoto valve, it would take all day to drain the oil when cold.

 

I see. I've never had an issue with turning the drain plug counter-clockwise to empty my oil. Goes from faucet to drip in about 20 seconds. haha