Hello, I have a 2018 6.7 F350 Lariat 165k miles, purchased recently with an oil leak. I’ve traced it down to front passenger side right above the trans cooler line bracket. It’s pretty bad, especially while towing. Oil coats my whole underside with some spray getting as far as the trailer. I’m not sure if it’s front cover or oil pan, but it’s wet just above the oil pan so that’s why I also want to do front cover. Front seal not leaking and CCV non-serviceable but replaced anyways with no change.

Anyways I’m planning the procedure, I’m a fairly competent diyer, I’ve rebuilt several 6.0s, but this is my first stab at a 6.7.

I am not “upgrading” to the o-ring style upper pan. I plan on reusing the existing one.

For parts I think I’ll need:

• coolant
• oil/oil filter
• TA-31 rtv
• surface prep wipes
• gasket kit (HC3Z-6E078-A)
• 50% sure I’m missing a coolant o-ring just not sure which one.

Shop manual says special tools are:

• front seal removal (303-1510)
• front seal installer (303-1509)
• gauge bar (307-400)
• rear seal installer (303-1514)

Procedure seems pretty straight forward but I have a question on gauge bar usage for front cover alignment. Does that bolt up to the block or is it essentially just a flat edge that gets held up there? Anyone have experience using that tool for front cover alignment? The manual isn’t very specific.
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Thank you!

Its just to ensure the gasket surfaces are equal yes it's a straight edge. Spec is within .25mm (.009 in).

 

Excellent, does it bolt up or would any old straight edge work? Evaluating the need for a $200 tool.

 

Any straight edge.

 

Just about finished the upper pan and front cover job, was about as difficult as I expected. Not an easy job, but doable.

Question: is there a way to prime the oil system before firing up? Should I worry about it? Seems a lot of air space in the oil system when doing this job (pickup tube, oil pump, oil cooler, oil filter (will be filled but still).

 

Just about finished the upper pan and front cover job, was about as difficult as I expected. Not an easy job, but doable.

Question: is there a way to prime the oil system before firing up? Should I worry about it? Seems a lot of air space in the oil system when doing this job (pickup tube, oil pump, oil cooler, oil filter (will be filled but still).

I don't worry about it. It takes around 6-8 seconds on a fully drained engine to reach pressure. No big deal.

 

Farns, did you perform this job on a lift? Or was this a driveway job? I am currently needing to do these exact same repairs and am currently being quoted at around $4000 just for the front cover gaskets, and oil pan gaskets.

 

I did it in the driveway and wouldn’t hesitate doing that way again. A lift would be easier but not required.

 

For the upper oil pan did you remove the transfer case and transmission? Also, for the front cover did you take apart everything in the front end such as radiator, condenser etc.? Or did you do it from above?

 

Yep, transmission and transfer case came off together. Front cover was all done from the top, I didn’t remove the radiator. I know I didn’t need to recover the ac or anything but I don’t remember what I did with those lines. Maybe there was clearance. Here’s a photo looking down when I was pulling the front crank seal

 

Definitely quite the project, I’m also in the process of doing a front cover and upper oil pan reseal. Would anyone have the torque spec handy for the front cover and balancer?

 

Front Cover Bolts
Torque: 18 lb.ft (24 Nm)

Front Crankshaft Pulley Bolts - To prevent engine damage, always install new TTY bolts when installing the crankshaft pulley.
Torque:
Stage 1: 22 lb.ft (30 Nm)
Stage 2: 90 °