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TRQ hub assemblies

8.3K views 25 replies 8 participants last post by  NCFX4  
#1 ·
#3 ·
Yeah I think while I do the hub assemblies I might fix the axle dust seals that have been jacked up forever. So I think I'll do hub assemblies, dust seals, vacuum seals and u joints. Anything else you guys can think of while I'm in there? And are these the right part numbers for the dust seals, BRS-170 or spicer 2014835? And for the vacuum seal Timken 710685?
 
#11 ·
Ha ha. Don't abandon just yet. I was just saying they also have a lifetime warranty. I'll most likely go Timken just trying to see what the reviews are for the others.
 
#12 ·
Hmmm...can't find info about TRQ hubs. Have you checked the interweb for info about Timken hubs? I'll bet you find more than you've found for TRQ, and that should tell you what you need to know.

-jokester
 
#13 ·
Yeah thats true. So looks like the part number for the outer dust seal is AC3Z 1S175 A and the for the vacuum seal I'm thinking I'll just but the front knuckle service kit part number 5C3Z 3254 B. Are spicer u joints ok or there something better?
 
#14 ·
I'm not saying TRQ hubs are BAD...I haven't had any experience with them. I'm just saying that Timken has been around and and they are pretty well-known and reliable for the same price!

-jokester
 
#15 ·
Mine weren't bad but I replaced them anyway while I had everything apart for the Ujoints. I like to use the very best that I can afford when I do something like this so I chose the Timkens. It's a big enough job that I just don't want to have to do it again because I used some cheap S#!+ part.

k
 
#16 ·
Just did these. I’m while searching. Parts geek has Timkens for 218$. No lifetime warranty tho. The stud kit was another 30-40 bux.

Timken 3 yr or whatever warranty if money is the issue If not 1aauto adds lifetime


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#17 ·
So after I pull the hub assemblies off the axles should slide out correct? Then I can change the u joints, vacuum seal and dust seals correct? I thought thee was a write up but I can't seem to find it.
 
#18 ·
Once u pull the lock hub , the c clip and then get the hub itself out, you can pull the axle out with the press in seal and it should just pull right out.


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#20 ·
Also, if u need assistance LMK. the biggest pain is getting the ext snap ring out. I ended up having to buy Snap rin pliers from Napa.. if you have a cheap HF pair, youll likley be better off spending the 20 bux at NAPA and buying a set that works.

Once out, used a 3 jaw puller to get started on removing the hub. once tension was applied i kept hitting the hub assy with a rubber mallet and then added tension to the puller. after about 5 min of this the suction let go and the assy popped out about an inch allowing me to slide it out.

Dont forget to remove the 4 nuts prior on the rear side holding the hub assy to the knuckle. I want to say its a 21 or 22 mm nut, but honestly cant remember.
 
#26 ·
I installed Timkens about 2 years ago after deciding to bite the bullet and buy the ‘best’. I was more than a little disappointed when the hub rusted in about 2 weeks and looked like hell. After a little research I found out they’re also made in China. Only have about 20k on them so crossing my fingers.


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