The timkens are still made. I just did mine a couple weeks ago. I got mine off amazon. You need to know wether you have the fine or course thread wheel studs. Here are both of the hubs.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VKK0M2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZ968Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The ones you linked look like they are it though.

 

your smart to be skeptical
Counterfeit Timkens are rampant

 

Thanks. Will check out the links.


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Timken told me Amazon is not an authorized retailer so no warranty if you buy a sold by Amazon hub
just FYI but being in Australia your probably hosed anyway LOL

 

Apparently Chinese part numbers end in ch.
I have found some supposed non Chinese ones.
From what I can gather Timken don't make them.



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SKF is another very good brand.

 

From what I can gather Timken don't make them.

what am i missing ??


this is a USA site sponsor with a Timken unit bearing listed for your truck

Timken also mage the OEM bearing and I am sure Ford still sells them under the Motorcraft brand

scroll down a few

Search Results for front wheel bearing - 1A Auto

just make sure you get the fine or course threads figured

 

Thanks, I enquired here with Australian bearings, a distributor for timken, they said theyre obselete so i may be getting a bum steer.

The dealer i bought it off gave me a 30 day stat warranty so theyre going to take a look at it, hopefully covered.

I'm guessing the job would involve hubs, new unis? Full gaskets for the rebuild? Anything I've missed?

Also the truck has a banks sticker on the inside door, it says iq or automind, is it a chip or reflash programmer? Where would i find it?

Thanks for the help.


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Why not just go Dynatrac free spin kit instead of some crappy nonserviceable hubs. That's what I'm doing when my hubs finally kick the bucket.

 

what are these

 

ÿa those crappy 100,000 plus mile unit bearings

i can see spending 1500.00 to get rid of them and the ESOF function



sarcasm above

 

Nobody is forcing you to do it. It's a suggestion. You wanna install some cheap Chinese crap on your truck? And hope it makes it to 100k and not leave you stranded? Ok it's your truck.
At least install quality hubs if you're gonna do it. Quality hubs aren't the two for $150 on Ebay or Rockauto special. Besides do you wanna do it twice or pay for it twice? Either way if you have large tires you'll eat those hubs up. And before you start spouting I have a uncle and a cousin who work at Ford as Master mechanics. They tell me that they replace a lot of hubs. Unfortunately I don't live anywhere near them anymore.

 

no one is talking about installing Chinese crap""

if you can read he is talking about avoiding it and was looking for OEM /Timken
he is also in Australia and this post is over 2 months old

 

OEM is going to soak his wallet for about as much as the Dynatrac kit. I already went through with this on a different service truck. I went with a Dynatrac kit on my last service truck after basically having to do hubs every 16 months. After that it was repacking bearings. A lot cheaper. I drive a lot more than the average person. My 2014 service truck has 90,000 miles on it to give you a reference. My average daily drive is about 120 miles. Sometimes more depending on where I need to be.

 

I agree Dyna trac is a nice kit and spyntec is also a nice alternative and it seems to work for your situation

it just seems hardly anyone commits to the price 1800.00 and loss of ESOF specially for 05 up with the stronger unit bearings and even less issues

Timken is 264.00 each or you can pay a little more for the same bearing with the / OEM Motorcraft
logo https://www.1aauto.com/ford-wheel-bearing-and-hub-assembly-timken-515020/i/tkshf00014?f=844738&y=200

the great thing about 1AAuto is they increase the Timken warranty from 1yr to lifetime

Lifetime Warranty

This item is backed by a Limited Lifetime Warranty. In the event this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will exchange the part free of charge (excludes shipping charges) for the original purchaser. Please keep your invoice for proof of this warranty.

 

I didn't know that you can get a lifetime warranty. I had three service trucks and required 4WD due to some areas where 4WD was needed due to weather, road conditions, and dirt roads.
I just know after I replaced the hubs I got a nice savings over a few years. Doing hubs on three vehicles got to be eoensive. And my guys weren't abusive at all. Lots of freeway I guess high speed driving (if 65-70 mph is high speed). These were Ford factory parts. I tried a set of cheaper ones thinking I was gonna save a bit but they barely lasted a year. The fleet mechanic. I kept the vehicles for 6-8 years then my uncle bought them pulled off the service beds and used them for towing horse trailers cross country. These were 99-04 trucks. By the time I was ready to dump them the 6.0 fiasco kept me away from the Ford diesels. I still have my F350 but I haven't done hubs on it. But this thing really is a inroad vehi vie. I took it down a few hard pack dirt roads or construction sites. When the hubs finally crap out I'll go Dynatrac. And my truck is manual hubs manual shifter so it makes no difference to me. My other trucks were the dash button and in some cases they wouldn't engage so you still had to get out lock the hubs. The SOTF system is great when new but expensive to fix. I keep my trucks a long time. One o my old service trucks had 370,000 miles.
I guess pay now or pay later on the hubs. At least for the 99/04 style. What sucks about my truck is I have to swap front adapters because it's a dual wheel truck. So that adds a few hundred bucks to the total cost.

Ps sorry didn't mean to get in your face.

Take care

 

Were good
sorry it took a turn for a post or two

 

Happens. No biggie

 

Despite this being such an old thread, the recent discussion woke me up to the fact that I may have avoided being a victim of counterfeit Timken hubs.

I found a deal on Amazon for the SP580205 that seemed too good to be true: $247 Canadian dollars ($184 USD).

Every other reputable source for this model has a price closer to $270 USD... Even local sources of equivalent SKF hub assemblies had prices near the $362 CAD that I can find online.

I would have been super choked if I had followed through and ended up with cheap counterfeit junk...

Some light reading: Counterfeit bearings seized at Toronto airport - Canadian Manufacturing

 

I just had to do u joints in my truck. I couldn't get one joint in time so I went with Moog. The parts guy said Moog is now made in China or Mexico. The other joint is Spicer. I went to a Oreyllis and they had some china made u joints. That were higher cost than Spicer .

 

I've always got Spicer driveline parts in stock.

 

Hi Corey
I didn't even think about you. I have seen your posts on forums. I was actually getting the rebuilt Gear-vendors unit installed and when I went to reinstall the driveshaft one of the caps just fell out of the pinion u joint. Looked inside and it was all rusted, needles were flattened and the milled surface of the U joint was washboard with wear. The trans side u joint was in better shape but nooint in doing one without the other. So one is aMoog, the other is a factory one . Went local just to get the truck back up and running to move it in the back of the property. I'll be replacing it with a Spicer. The chain parts store wanted $56 bucks per joint on some private label china made crap. No thanks.
I'm going to have to get your info on my iPad list so I can start ordering. I'm mostly doing just replacement of parts. I have a few buddies who have diesels and they modcthem but they seem to have issues so I leave mine stock. It's a manual so it won't win any speed contests, besides this is my long distance truck. Last thing I want is to break down in the middle of nowhere and need some part I can't get.
I appreciate the info.

 

Update:

Fortunately the dealer supplied and installed new factory ford unis/hubs no charge! They were a k each plus install, so happy with that.

I also found the old owner and he gave me the Banks automind programmer which was a bonus, wound it up to the highest tune and installed the 6637 air filter and muffler delete, it hauls arse!!.

Toasted the tranny the other week so now looking at a k or 2 in repairs damn it.

 

Very nice

Very nice

Ugh that sucks.

 

Yes that is what i stated ( kind of lol )

the great thing about 1AAuto is they increase the Timken warranty from 1yr to lifetime

and I keep telling Tony there is not big nut to torque on these trucks like some just some retainers that you can't over/under tighten
but he doesn't listened to me LOL

 

So jumping in here...I am preparing to do whole front end...rotors - calipers - ball joints - tie rods - etc etc...ALL the way in and back out. I am just lining up parts and admit, I have dig in there past the calipers yet, so still need to inspect it...2 things to start:

-The Spicer u-joints. I see the SPL55-3x and 4x...is the only diff that one has a zerk and one does not? (One says "maint free," and THAT is scary!
-The hub assembly (I already purchased some new Warn hubs that are waiting)
- if I just get new ones - what do they come with? Will I still need the inner/knuckle seal ($50 each) the yellow gasket(not sure exact name) etc?
-Needle bearing come with new hub assembly?

-I'm also scared to see the needle bearings and what they may have done to the axle...

Anyways - just lining up the parts store I will need to order...

 

you need the vacuum seal but unit bearings come with the yellow o ring and inner sealed/needle bearing ( type depends on year )

i would look at the axle if you have down time to wait if it is damaged you can order a full shaft with u joints

 

I will have some down time...gonna be up on the jack stands for a bit while I diagnose what I need. Want to get in there and get it new. Did back end and working way up. Have the entire rotor/caliper set up, but waiting. She roams around on the road and clunks a bit. All this should tighten her up. (03 F-350 7.3 SRW)

 

Might want to verify that your hub assemblies come with new mounting studs (hub to knuckle studs). I recently bought some Timken SP580205 hub assemblies (fine thread wheel studs) for my 2004 (you'd probably use the 515020, course thread wheel studs, for the 2003). One hub assembly came with the four mounting studs, the other did not.

Studs like the APDTY 028624 or Dorman 917513 will work if your unit bearing hub assembly doesn't include them.

 

Damn. Just realized that the 515020 (course wheel stud hub assembly) fits the same year range as the SP580205 (fine thread). :tard: I guess you need to check your thread pitch to be sure.

It would suck to have different thread pitch from front to back.

 

Resurrecting this thread, as truck is sitting on stands....so 2 things:

-what indicates counterfeit Timken Hubs?

- and what in the hell do you call the nipples on the spindle where the auto hub hose plugs into. Need to Oder two.

Have everything disassembled, got out the ball joints (one was dust) and now am scraping and getting some Bill Hirsh paint on everything before it goes back on.

 

-what indicates counterfeit Timken Hubs?

Price is a big indicator. If the hubs cost less than $170USD each, they're probably Chinese knock-offs. You can find those easily on Amazon. That being said, its very possible that Timken has been building its unit bearings (among other parts) in China to save money. I would assume the genuine article would have the quality we expect, even if its built over-seas.

If you buy from a reputable source (such as 1A Auto) you'll find prices closer to $480 for the pair or $240 each.

The OEM hub (F81Z-1104-BH) is around $331.22 from AutoNation Ford in White Bear Lake.

- and what in the hell do you call the nipples on the spindle where the auto hub hose plugs into. Need to Oder two.

Not sure on that. I've put a photo in of what you're probably looking for. I can't recall a separate part number for that fitting. It might be easier to just tap the hole and buy a threaded fitting that you can put in there. I tried a Google Image search for 'vacuum nipple' and quickly realized that such a word combo is not for the faint of heart.

Have everything disassembled, got out the ball joints (one was dust) and now am scraping and getting some Bill Hirsh paint on everything before it goes back on.

Make sure you install the knuckle seal properly when going back together. The OTC tool (6695 for the 99-04 or 6697 for the newer models) makes the job easy. Otherwise you might end up with a vacuum leak...

 

The vacuum nipples are F5UZ-4022-A

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