Considering you are using the arms you should be able to use the 0* cams. Then adjust the arms to what is required for a in spec alignment.



Otherwise just leave what cams are installed, install the arms, adjust the arms to meet the alignment specs. I don't see what benefit there is in going to a 0* cam just to install the arms. That's the point of the adjustability of the arms.

 

I was told the alignment cams offset the axles in the axle tube and put the dust seals at the end of the tube in a bind and accelerate wear on the seal.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Since 2005 the front axles have used control arms. Plenty of people running lifted, different alignment cams, etc etc etc....I have never heard of that ever being an issue or the source of the dust seal popping out. I'm trying to picture the geometry in my head so take it for what it's worth. Since there's no "set" OEM caster cam as it's done as they come off the line they would be all different based on cab/bed configuration.




Cams are cheap....do what you want. I don't see any reason not to. So why then try to discover what is OEM spec? Using a 0* and the arms to prevent the potential dust seal issue sound like the best choice. OR just get an alignment done with the OEM arms, get the cams to get that right, then install the PMF arms.

 

Trevor at PMF gave me the recommendation of going back to stock bushings.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I don’t have my stockers anymore but I am going back to stock to run PMF 3 link arms.

Since you don't have the stockers, then you are really just guessing right???


So here's what's going to happen. You go to an alignment shop, they install 0* cams. They do a check to see what cams need to be installed. Those cams will be your "stock" cams. Then you install the arms. I don't see a real requirement but you might want to check the alignment again just to be sure.


There is NO WAY to determine what you need by VIN, part number, or whatever. The stock cams are from the factory, set by the requirements there, and shipped to the lot. SPC lists multiple cams that will fit with no issues. You might get away with another truck that is the same cab/bed configuration as a good estimate. In the end.....you will need an alignment to know 1000% for sure. Which is why I gave the idea of just installing the arms, do the alignment and see what happens. There's 10,000 ways to skin this cat.....but they all evolve the use of an alignment machine to see what cam to install.

 

How much caster should we be running?

 

Just curious...why are you going from Carli to PMF? Nothing against PMF, just wondering.

 

I have seen reports that a positive 2-3* caster is best. I'm not sure of the factory limits.


It seems as he is going to use the PMF 3-link arm along with the Carli lift stuff. He is being told to drop out the Carli caster bushings to get the 3-link arm set correctly to prevent the axle dust seals from popping out.

 

From the ford workshop manual for the 2013 MY: I'm sure other years are similar

Item LH RH Total / Split

F-250 and F-350 Rear Wheel Drive (RWD) Pickup
Camber 0.62° ± 1.0° 0.62° ± 1.0° 0° ± 0.75° a
Caster (Heavy Duty Suspension) b 3.6° ± 1.3° 3.6° ± 1.3° 0° ± 0.75° c
Caster (Standard Suspension) 4.0° ± 1.2° 4.0° ± 1.2° 0° ± 0.75°c
Toe @ Curb Ride Height (Positive Value is Toe In, Negative Value is Toe Out) — — 0.1° ± 0.25°
Thrust Angle — — 0° ± 0.50°



F-250 Four-Wheel Drive (4WD) Pickup
Camber 0.15° ± 0.75° 0.15° ± 0.75° 0° ± 0.75°a
Caster (Snowplow Package-without plow installed) 1.9° ± 1.3° 1.9° ± 1.3° 0° ± 0.50°
Caster (Heavy Duty Suspension)b 2.8° ± 1.3° 2.8° ± 1.3° 0° ± 0.55°c
Caster (Standard Suspension) 3.5° ± 1.2° 3.5° ± 1.2° 0° ± 0.55°c
Toe @ Curb Ride Height (Positive Value is Toe In, Negative Value is Toe Out) — — 0.1° ± 0.25°
Thrust Angle — — 0° ± 0.50°

F-350 4WD Pickup SRW
Camber 0.15° ± 0.75° 0.15° ± 0.75° 0° ± 0.75°a
Caster (Heavy Duty Suspension)b 2.1° ± 1.3° 2.1° ± 1.3° 0° ± 0.55°c
Caster (Standard Suspension) 2.7° ± 1.2° 2.7° ± 1.2° 0° ± 0.55°c
Toe @ Curb Ride Height (Positive Value is Toe In, Negative Value is Toe Out) — — 0.1° ± 0.25°
Thrust Angle — — 0° ± 0.50°

F-350 4WD Pickup DRW
Camber 0.15° ± 0.75° 0.15° ± 0.75° 0° ± 0.75°a
Caster (Heavy Duty Suspension)b 2.6° ± 1.3° 2.9° ± 1.3° -0.30° ± 0.55°c
Caster (Standard Suspension) 3.3° ± 1.2° 3.6° ± 1.2° -0.30° ± 0.55°c
Toe @ Curb Ride Height (Positive Value is Toe In, Negative Value is Toe Out) — — 0.1° ± 0.25°
Thrust Angle — — 0° ± 0.50°


F-450 Pickup (All Vehicles)
Camber 0.15° ± 0.75° 0.15° ± 0.75° 0° ± 0.75°a
Caster (Heavy Duty Suspension)b 2.5° ± 1.3° 2.9° ± 1.3° -0.40° ± 0.55°c
Caster (Standard Suspension) 3.10° ± 1.2° 3.5° ± 1.2° -0.40° ± 0.55°c
Toe @ Curb Ride Height (Positive Value is Toe In, Negative Value is Toe Out) — — 0.1° ± 0.25°
Thrust Angle — — 0° ± 0.50°

 

First time I have ever heard of the new style dust or even the old style seals having issues due to the minute amount the knuckle offsets from the c with adjuster bushings

and with the amount of lifted trucks on here you would expect this to be a " known issue"

 

@jetskier: Thank you!! That's awesome info.

 

No prob. I'm going in for new tires and an alignment tomorrow after putting a 2" lift on the truck (spacer in front and add-a-leaf in rear) and a some new 5-leaf overloads to handle my 5th wheel a little better. I needed the add-a-leaf in the rear because the new overloads touch the pads unloaded with the stock worn suspension. It looks much better now! not level, still 2" high in the rear. With the trailer (16.5k) it levels perfectly. I put the +2.6 and +2.9 caster shims on a few weeks back and it tracks and drives good after, but I think the toe is off.

Here's a PDF which is much easier to read! I check a few other model years and the table is the same for 2011-2016. The numbers are different outside these years.