3 bolts and a wire nut and it's out. Could just bench test or take to the auto parts store and test. Fwiw when I looked at mine the post to the solenoid was munged so instead of ordering the whole thing I just did the solenoid and cleaned everything up and re-greased.
I kind of doubt a frozen device on the belt would keep it from turning at all, but that's an easy check.

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When using the starter jumper wire you get nothing? Then the solenoid coil or the wire is bad -- unusual for the coil to fail, but the connection at the post can get corroded.

As @gephro mentioned, pretty easy to just pull the starter in these trucks -- should be less than a 15 minute job.

 

If your ac clutch isn’t stuck locked, I would think you should be able to turn the compressor by hand without removing the belt, at least enough to see if it is locked or not.


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I have read numerous places and watched videos on removing the starter. But that back bolt is a pain. I tried and I lost the socket and extension behind the starter. And this isn't the first starter I have ever replaced. Just seems a heck of lot harder to get to. The starter is 18 years old so I want to replace it with a 6.2 starter. Just don't want to pay to have it done.

 

You mean a 6.4 starter right? Maybe I'm insane lol. But yeah, I agree with hydro, probably a wiring problem. Just follow them around and look for any corrosion. If you find none then go ahead and replace the starter.

 

1)Clean cables battery...try
2) charge batteries or boost...try
3) Replace batteries or starter. add fomoto block drain plug w/90 degree w/ or w/o hose

 

Try tapping the starter with the huskier end of a crescent hammer, then try to turn it over again. If it works, go buy a new starter. If it doesn't, slip your belt off and try cranking again. If it STILL doesn't work, see end result of 1st suggestion.

-jokester

 

unplugged the starter wire and put onto the battery. Nothing. Not even a try

Solenoid wire connection -- if it was working at all, you would get a spark, a click, or the starter turning
that wire runs straight to the starter solenoid, likely corroded off or really bad at the connection post

Even if the starter was totally fried, that wire would still pull current and make a spark when you jump it to the battery

 

A recommendation on the no crank is to turn on the headlights when trying to start. You would be surprised how something so easy can be overlooked. The only conclusion I have been able to derive from the experiences in power gen and cars starting circuit is the grounds getting some chem reaction on connections. The headlights place a load on the circuit and clears the path. I have seen cases where the panel lights on a large generators 100kw could generate a start. If the headlights fail to dim there is an open circuit.

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So, while I've been up for the last 3 hours....

My experience with starters is there are two common issues. First, the carbon brushes get hung up, or the solenoid's current flow contacts erode.

The hammering the starter trick works on the brushes. However, when they get worn down, the springs pushing on the back lose some tension or skew sideways somewhat, which, combined with the dust or corrosion of the holders, hangs one up.

The second is in the solenoid, which has two functions: engage the drive and electrically switch power to the starter motor. The current flow is through two contacts and a disc mounted on the solenoid shaft. Over time those contacts get pitted.

Either one of those will engage the solenoid, so you hear it click. The one post on the solenoid goes to the starter motor. If you can get a voltmeter clip on it, you can often see if the voltage is high when the solenoid is engaged, you've got a brush problem, or low to non-existing means a solenoid contact problem.

I have fixed a fair amount of farm equipment solenoids by disassembling them and flipping the disc over, although that is not necessarily an easy task. It used to be easier to buy a solenoid than it is today.

Boy, did that take a lot of editing in the late morning.

 

This is the one I replaced mine with
Starter Solenoid Replacement For F-Series F250 F350 6.0L 2003-07 7.3L 2001-03 F450 F550 Super Duty 6.0 2003-05 7.3 2001-03 E-Series Econoline Van E350 E450 6.0 04-2008 7.3 01-03 Excursion 2001-05 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004O3W7X.../B004O3W7XC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_S21RBEV3Q0D5YFDSR2K6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I see another there for a few bucks less.
As far as quality, all I can say is mine looked the same as the original and still works after 2 years.

Next time there's an issue with my starter I'll go with the bigger starter, but at that time I was just trying to get it fixed and not hemorrhage even more cash.

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