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Replacement bed plate/upper oil pan

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10K views 33 replies 9 participants last post by  FordDoctor  
#1 ·
A little back story…I pulled the engine out of my ‘08 E450 and as you know, the oil pan has to come off of the crossmember needs to be cut out for clearance. I went with removing the oil pan but found4-5 screws that were rounded and of course they were where I could not get on them to get them out so I decided to cut them, knowing I would just replace the the oil pan. But, I cut into the bed plate a little too far by accident and have to replace it. Surprise!! It’s discontinued. I can’t seem to find even a used one anywhere. Does anyone know where I might find one. The part number is 4c2z-6675*BA. Thank you!!!
 
#2 ·
Considering the bed plate replaces the typical main caps for the crankshaft, I can't imagine replacing a bed plate without line boring the bed plate and block together. So, another way of saying it is you're in a sticky wicket.

Would you be able to provide some pictures of the issue? Careful welding could probably correct the problem without warping the bed plate.

But if you are having the block machined, then finding a bed plate should not be that hard. eBay, rebuilders like Ashville or Diesel Dynamics, and even Facebook Marketplace have cheap blocks that are pooched.

I would have used a Dremel with a cut-off wheel to slot the bolt head so a flat-blade screwdriver could be tried. And if it didn't, continue to use the Dremel as a small wheel is easy to control and takes a minimum amount off at a time.
 
owns 2003 Ford F-350 Lariet
#3 ·
did u cut the upper oil pan ? or the actual bedplate .. your part number is confusing
agreed bed plate is smoked then you're in for fun ,, but I think they are the same as the trucks ?

 
#4 ·
I’ve gotta say I feel much better now. This is just my lack of knowledge. I thought the bed plate and upper oil pan were being referred to as the same thing. I did not cut the bed plate. I cut into the upper oil pan bad enough in one spot where the lower gasket goes that will definitely cause a leak. That part number I listed is for the upper oil pan that I need.
The second picture is where I messed up pretty badly. I just need to find one of these.

thanks so much for taking the time to respond.
 

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#21 · (Edited)
I’ve gotta say I feel much better now. This is just my lack of knowledge. I thought the bed plate and upper oil pan were being referred to as the same thing. I did not cut the bed plate. I cut into the upper oil pan bad enough in one spot where the lower gasket goes that will definitely cause a leak. That part number I listed is for the upper oil pan that I need.
The second picture is where I messed up pretty badly. I just need to find one of these.

thanks so much for taking the time to respond.
Just use a healthy amount of ta31 in the right way no need to spend money on a new oil girdle for that notch you made. I think now that i have rebuilt enough of these i would wager you could get away without using a single spaghetti seal on the bed plate, girdle and pan. Just plenty of ta31 and it would be better and more leak proof than just using the spaghetti seals like from factory lol. Of course having both applied properly is best.
has to be ta31 though because oil reasons, its quite cheap.
 
#7 ·
A little back story…I pulled the engine out of my ‘08 E450 and as you know, the oil pan has to come off of the crossmember needs to be cut out for clearance.
No, you don't have to do either. Yes, the workshop manual has you remove the lower oil pan and oil pickup however at no place in the instructions are you cutting anything. For anyone reading this that is going to be removing a 6.0L from an E-Series: Remove the engine mounts, then the valve covers and the high-pressure oil rails. Pick the engine up with the rear tilted up. Comes right out. As for the damage to the upper pan that does not look all that significant to me. At least not from the pictures. I would probably feel warm and fuzzy replacing it though.
 
#8 ·
Well now I feel dumb. I left the valve covers and oil rails in.🤦🏼‍♂️. I wish I would’ve come here first. I’m assuming I can put it back in that way too? That will make me feel better dealing up the oil pan in my garage and not in the bud. Yes everyone, don’t do it my way lol. Those were the only two options I found looking around online. Luckily, that mistake is only costing me the upper oil pan because I was replacing the lower anyway. That’s if I can find one lol Thank you!!!


Hi I purchased a 2005 ford f350 with 6.0 , unknown to me was that the previous owner had installed a van engine in the truck the issue i have is the oil pan is contacting the lower frame. My question is does any body know if you can swap an upper oil pan for a truck onto this engine so the correct truck oil pan can be installed and if so wher is the most reasonable place to get one thanks .
Hey, I know this post is pretty old, but did you decide to remove and swap out the upper oil pans? I hope you got it worked out. If so, and you still have the E series, I would be interested in buying it if it’s in good shape. Thank you
 
#9 · (Edited)
Yeah, the upper pan is totally different. Warm and comfy, I'd replace it.

But I doubt it would leak with judicial use of the Motorcraft TA-31 silicon or other recommended RTVs for this area as a secondary seal. I prefer the TA-31 as it has some of the best adherence I've found.

With a replacement pan, check that the center bolting pattern is the same as they changed.

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#14 ·
Yeah, the upper pan is totally different. Warm and comfy, I'd replace it.

But I doubt it would leak with judicial use of the Motorcraft TA-31 silicon or other recommended RTVs for this area as a secondary seal. I prefer the TA-31 as it has some of the best adherence I've found.

With a replacement pan, just check that the center bolting pattern is the same, as they changed.
Not being able to find a replacement, I started looking at mine and I think I can clean it up a bit and get rid of any sharp edges and seal it up with bread new tube of TA-31 I already have. I’d definitely replace it if I could find one, but I’m not gonna look for weeks. I want this things DONE lol. Thanks so much for the info.
 
#11 ·
#13 ·
More may show up on eBay since they had 22. That vendor is also Diesel Redemption. He buys a lot of salvage ambulances and such, so it also might be a good idea to call them.

779.220.9911

And there is Facebook Marketplace or the other places I mentioned.
 
owns 2003 Ford F-350 Lariet
#15 ·
owns 2003 Ford F-350 Lariet
#16 ·
Since I’m learning a lot today, I have one more question before the games come on lol. I’m not sure what this little piece circled in red is called that is held in by the small retainers, on the rocker arms, but I need to replace a couple of the retainers so I figured I’d just do all of them, as I’m doing with a lot of other things too. The little piece with the ball on one end can just be pulled out where the clips are broken.
 

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#17 ·
I call them rocker arm tips. Check them for smooth rotation and height. They can wear.
 
owns 2003 Ford F-350 Lariet
#20 ·
I've never seen that, but my experience with this engine is ONE.

If they did sell them earlier, these are so far out of production even some of the larger components are being discontinued, as you found out with the upper pan.
 
owns 2003 Ford F-350 Lariet
#27 ·
They are regular flange bolts (technically screws), typically a 10.9 grade; only Ford tends to spec a smaller size drive hex. I used many bolts from McMaster to replace Ford ones.

You can get replacements in the specialty boxes at Home Depot, Lowes, ACE, ....
 
owns 2003 Ford F-350 Lariet