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removing starter from the hole

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75K views 21 replies 6 participants last post by  Goldy  
#1 ·
I've got a 2014 f-350 with a bad starter solenoid. I throws sparks from the solenoid when I try to start it. I've got it unbolted and loose but can't get it to come out of the hole. It's hitting on something everyway I try to turn it. Does anyone know the secret to getting this thing to come out? Much thanks for any help you have.

David
 
#2 ·
does this help you any?
 

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#4 ·
I've notice it says to remove inner wheel liner (splash shield). I assume for room and access. Did you try that? I texted a Ford D. tech of mine. Ill see if he responds anytime soon.
 
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#6 ·
With approx 75,000 miles on my 2015 F350, I decided to replace the POS oem starter with something better. The OEM starter had engagement issues.

I installed a Mean Green gear reduction starter. Removing/installing a starter on the 6.7 is difficult; very little clearance and yes, you must disconnect the wires/cabled first. The Mean Green turns the engine over much faster than OEM.

Time will tell but so far, I'm thrilled with the Mean Green starter.
 
#7 ·
So I would def agree that it is a tight fit. I got mine out easy enough but getting it back in is kicking my butt. once disconnected and unbolted, i pulled it enough to get it out and then kind of wiggled it upwards and vertical to pull it out. I can't for the life of my get it to go back in that way. Was just wondering if getting it back in was more difficult for you fellas or is there a special way to re-install it?
 
#8 ·
It was definitely MUCH easier installing the new starter than removing the old one. Note: I hooked the cable and wire up after installing the new starter. It really wasn't hard... just had to feel around to connect the wire/cable...you can't really see it.

What brand (of the starter are you installing?

Good luck!
 
#9 · (Edited)
I'm actually putting the old one(OEM) back in. I had it bench tested due to a starting issue I'm having. The wires don't look like they'll be a problem, like you said, just need to feel around. My issue is getting the actual starter to go into it's hole. There's almost no clearance and every time I've got it in there, it's at an angle and hitting everything around it so it gets wedged. It's almost like there's only one perfect way to get it back in. With all the reaching over and under the frame, my arms are shot so I'm mentally preparing myself for tomorrow and going to war with that thing!!!
 
#10 ·
Honestly, it wasn't that hard. (Maybe I got lucky???) From memory, I started to position it at an angle (45 degrees) and got it up high enough to where the nose of the starter fit in the hole. Then I had to clock (turn) it to the proper position. Sounds like I may have gotten lucky.

What was the problem with your starter? I had the same problem with the 2 ford starters...at times, they ground geard/didn't engage fully.
 
#11 ·
Drove it home last night, she was running like a champ. Went to start her up this morning and all I got was a click(solenoid firing). No CEL, batteries and connections tested SAT, so in the spirit of Easter Egging, I "gently" tapped the starter and solenoid. Tried to fire her up again and this time...no click, no nothing except the relays doing their thing. I decided to check the connections to the starter and noticed the ground wire coming from the starter motor to the solenoid was loose. I decided to pull the starter to have it bench checked since O-Reillys is a mile up the road and it's free. Got it removed no problem and it tested SAT on the bench. I'm hoping my issue was just the connections but I gotta get the damn thing installed first. To be honest, my issue might just be fatigue. my forearm muscles are non-existent right now after all that today....I'm sure I'll figure it out tomorrow....but now that you mention it, I've had bad starter luck with almost every Ford I've owned....could just be me...heh
 
#13 ·
WARNING: Always disconnect the battery ground cable at the battery before disconnecting the starter motor battery terminal lead. If a tool is shorted at the starter motor battery terminal, the tool can quickly heat enough to cause a skin burn. Failure to follow this instruction may result in serious personal injury.

NOTE: A protective cap or boot is provided over the battery input terminal on all vehicle lines and must be installed after repairing.

NOTE: Install the 3 starter motor bolts finger tight. Tighten the top starter motor bolt, then tighten the 2 remaining starter motor bolts.

NOTE: Remove the RH fender splash shield. For additional Information, refer to Section 501-02 .

NOTE: If equipped, disconnect the block heater cord.

Refer to the procedures and/or exploded views in this section for any Warnings, Notices, Notes, Materials, Specifications, and Special Tools. Items in the exploded views may not be listed in order of removal. Click here to view a video version of this procedure.



See if this video will play for you

mms://multimedia.ford.com/seopts/Service%20Tips/Stater-R-I2.wmv
 
#15 ·
Did you watch the video?
 
#17 ·
You probably need to allow pop-ups for the link as it opens a new window and then launches Media Player.
 
#19 ·
Starter is on passenger side. No special tools, just normal assortment of metric. Can be done but Ford says to remove the passenger inner fender to gain access for "easier" removal.
 
#21 ·
Here is the info from the 2015 Ford Workshop DVD
 

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#22 ·
So a follow-up.... my 2015 6.7 has been sitting outside for 3 days. This evening the temperature was 5 degrees F, and I needed to start the truck. I did plug the block heater in a few hours earlier. I wasn't sure how easily it was going to start with the Mean Green starter.

Well, I put the key in, turned to the 'On' position, and waited for the glow plug indicator to go off. I turned the key to the start position, and the engine turned over as if it was 80 degrees F. The Mean Green is truly an amazing starter... well worth the money. I'm one happy camper. :)