toeing on 38's in 120* weather... this sounds like some @jetjock15 adventures.

the only detail we are missing is how fast are you going?

 

70mph 1950 rpm 3-6 pounds boost unless there is a hill then its 15 to 18 pounds.

 

nice, those 4.33's really helped.
I assume that is empty/no trailer

I've seen 220/230 at 2k RPMs and I understand that 250 is acceptable when towing, especially in those conditions. @eric@cncfab @Patrick Feeley, thoughts?

I wonder if a deep oil pan would help, @bismic @TooManyToys... I know this is a 7.3 but what say you on the logic of more fluid mean lower temps? Same with a larger radiator.

 

its pretty much the same conditions towing or not. EOTS creep up faster with heavy load it seems to be over 850 degree EGTS the motor heat soaks and EOTS and ECTS creep. Its not until I'm going down a hill and can free wheel the turbo that EGT's are then 300 and no load obviously it cools down. I want to know if an aftermarket remote derale oil cooler will work if I plumb off the pressure plug of the filter housing and then add the return to block that drops into the pan. Sure seems like I'm at efficiency of the OEM oil cooler.

 

A bigger capacity engine or transmission pan is a slower ramp-up to settled temperature, but the overall peak is the same. The larger surface area could provide more thermal loss, but there's not good airflow down there.

It's not like an aluminum-finned bigger capacity oil pan on a '66 GT-350 that sticks into the underflow. 😀. Just saying ...

The larger radiator would have more fins in the air flow or wider fins for more depth - exposure to the air.

 

I added mishomoto radiator its significantly larger than OEM>

 

There is noting wrong with oil temps at 230 F. As Heavy mentioned 250 is fine as well, even with old school Dino oil. Venturing to about 260 F is ok but I would not recommend staying there. If you are running a blended oil or synthetic temps are permitted to be higher. I would suspect that if you run at permissible synthetic oil temps you would start having issues elsewhere much sooner and evident.

Do not sweat temps of 230. Do allow a few minutes of low speed parking lot driving and a few more prior to shutting down to allow the turbo and other components to cool.

I am more curious of how you have IAT of 150-180.
Is your hot pipe not insulated?
Is your temp probe out of the box near the hot pipe?
If in the stock box, have you checked the calibration?

I run a 6637 and have the probe in front of the filter and if in motion I rarely see above 140 in Texas.

Keep your coolant temps in check... 200- 225 all day long and you are fine, slight venturing higher is ok if you do not let it run away. Now, those numbers will vary based on the coolant mix and pressurization as to what is stable. Most higher coolant mix ratios do not cool as well as the lower ratio mixes. The issue with the lower mix ratio is protection of the engine and components as well as freezing. Choose wisely.

 

IAT is in AFE airbox on bottom. Remember ambient air temp in Arizona is 120-125 degrees on hot days IAT can easily be 25-50 over ambient. No my hot pipe is not insulated on the intercooler charge. I have Mishimoto intercooler and their pipes were never wrapped. I plan to wrap it with thermal tape.

 

OK, but that does not necessarily mean it is better at thermal rejection. There are so many design considerations with tube design and fin design. A thicker (depth of core) radiator may not cool any better or even worse due to higher airflow resistance.