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Rear Main Seal or Bed Plate leak....

66K views 10 replies 6 participants last post by  mensagero4u  
#1 ·
I have a 2006 6.0 with what looks to be a Rear Main Seal leak. According to dealer, Bed Plate leaks are more common and leak where the rear main leak would show up. I have read postings here and talked to dealer about this and dealer says that leaking rear main seals in 6.0 are rare. He says they will have to take a look to determine whether it is rear main seal, bed plate gasket, or a hose in the area. If it is a bed plate gasket, then it's off with the cab and out with the motor to repair. Does all this sound right to anyone? Has anyone experienced what they thought was a rear main seal and after it was replaced the leaks kept leaking? Both are covered under warranty and truck has only 51k miles.
 
#2 ·
If it is a Bed plate they will end up pulling the rear cover and screwing with the rear seal anyways.. It could just be a o-ring on the cam or crank sensors, I have seen ALOT of the cam sensor top o-rings cut.
 
#3 ·
Mine is in the shop as we speak...getting it back tomorrow...I noticed a leak on the passenger side of the engine prior to taking it in...

After a few days in the shop they determined that it was a bedplate leak and they pulled the engine...they have to pull it because the whole bottom half of the engine pretty much comes off from what it looked like....i went down and saw my engine completely taken apart(obviously because of the studs too)

While they were in there I gave them my black onyx gaskets and ARP studs..they charged me 1298.00 to install them since they already had the engine out...that included them taking my heads to a local machine shop to have them checked for flatness and leaks.
 
#4 ·
Miles97. So I'm sure at that point they would put in a new seal on the rear main. If it is the o-ring, does that mean the engine does NOT have to come out? I always prefer as little work as needed to fix. Thanks for info.
Armyguy. Why the 1300. if they had the motor out already. How much of this fix was covered under warranty. They are talking 100.00 dollar deductible in my case. I can't afford the 13 big ones. Thanks to you also.
 
#5 ·
I paid more because of thr ARP's...ususally labor for thaqt alone is like 2500-3000 because they have to pull the engine or cab.
 
#7 ·
thanks Armyguy.......
Mike 6.0: Did you add the dye or the dealer? The service writer at the ford dealer I went to mentioned adding dye to the oil to figure out where it is coming from. I may take it there Monday to let them have at it. I hate having people touch my truck.
 
#8 ·
Just got mine back...looked at the invoice...dealer used dye to determine where mine was coming from...which ended up being the bed plate....just read it on the invoice and thought i'd share
 
#9 ·
I had 55k on mine thought the same thing and it was the glow plug harness on the passenger side leaking oil. My son inlaw had what we thought was the same thing it was a oil line on the back side of the turbo . So all in all it could be a few things .. The GP harness with labor and all with out warranty would have been 400$ out the door.
Paid $100 and I was done but no more warranty for me :(
 
#10 ·
If it is the o-ring on the cam or crank sensor they are changed with the engine in. Not that big of a job. Crank sensor is a little harder because the AC compressor is in the way.

i have also seen a few of the glow plug harness/o-ring leak, as stated.

make sure they die it.
 
#11 · (Edited)
My 08 F350 6.0 king ranch it was just the oil dipstick O-ring located at the upper oil pan, a $0.60 cents part and half hour labor.
the trick was to find it taking pictures with my cellphone and walaaa..
i just love to take my time to post this, i wouldn't like some one to make a big mistake that can cost thousand of dollars for not reason.
check before you take that trip to the dealer because you can be on you way to spend for no reason a lot of money.
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