Rear pinion i presume ?

you may want to do it the ******* way

and mark the pinion nut and also count the turns to remove the nut ( be very precise )

replace the seal and put the nut back in the exact location some thread locker may be a good idea
and replacing the nut is specified IIRC but then it makes identical reassembly a challenge

Drive Pinion Flange and Drive Pinion Seal


Removal

NOTE: The rear axle shafts must be removed to prevent drag during drive pinion bearing preload adjustment.

...
Install a Nm (inch-pound) torque wrench on the pinion nut, and record the rotational torque required to maintain rotation of the pinion through several revolutions.

CAUTION: After removal of the pinion nut, discard it. A new nut must be used for installation.
...
Mark the pinion flange in relation to the drive pinion stem to ensure proper alignment during installation.
...

Installation

...
Tighten the pinion nut, rotating the pinion occasionally to make sure the cone and roller bearings are seating properly. Take frequent cone and roller bearing torque preload readings until the original recorded preload reading is obtained by rotating the pinion with a Nm (inch-pound) torque wrench.

If the original recorded preload is lower than specifications, tighten to the appropriate specification for used bearings. If the preload is higher than specification, tighten the nut to the original reading as recorded. Refer to Torque Specifications (below)... </div></div>

Specs:

Rotational Torque Ranges
Pinion bearing preload = 1.8-3.3 Nm (16-29 lb-in)

 

Thanks. Yes it's the rear seal/nut.
I didn't check the rotation torque before removing the old nut so I'll just go with the factory setting.
When I took it apart, I didn't find a torque / thrust sleeve. I bought a new sleeve but once I removed the old worn out seal I just found a flat washer?

Thanks for the quick advice

 

the crush sleeve goes between the 2 bearings. also its not just the axle shafts but its the carrier to because you will have drag from that to....

but you basically have to keep tighten the crush collar down, check rotation, tighten it down some more, and the recheck rotational torque. if you are going to replace the crush sleeve i would put some new bearings in there.


its going to take a couple 100ft lbs to crush the collar, but to many and you have to start again with a new crush collar...
you will also need a big pipe wrench to hold the yoke.



last time i did this job i bought some white out and marked the nut, yoke and socket and counted the turns.....

also make sure you clean out you vent tube or you may by back doing this job again.

 

Thanks.
I removed the tires, pulled out the axles, removed the rear cover to drain the old fluid, took off the nut and pulled the yoke but like an idiot in a hurry I didn't mark anything. I have to get this thing done by Friday since I'm taking the wife away for the weekend in our Travel Trailer.

I should have done the YouTube/shade tree way and reused everything but I've heard to many horror stories about it not being right.

I replaced the crush sleeve, put the old bearing in, put on the old oil slinger, put on a new seal, cleaned the carrier and new nut but I can't get it to tighten down enough to crush the sleeve. The carrier seems to still be about a 1/4 away from being tight but I can't get it any tighter.


So frustrating. I guess I just need to apply a lot of pressure to crush the sleeve???

I should replace the bearings but I'll do them when I replace the differential this summer. I could see some wear on the carrier from the pinion gear making slight contact.

This was supposed to be a quick job but now it will be a 2 day deal.

 

I need to tighten mine more I guess cause I have about 1mm of play up and down and I think it's the cause of my vibration at higher speeds 65mph and higher

 

It might be too late for you. I would look into getting the crush sleeve replaced.