[scha0786]

ok, so I brought it in to have them determine what the prob is

they said my EGR valve needed to be replaced along with my throttle plate assembly. They also said the turbo was NOT sticking at all.

ok so I went to the stealership and picked up a new EGR valve, installed in 10 mins and codes are still present.

wtf must be the throttle plate assembly???????

 

[scha0786]

dang that thing is $655

yeah I won't be replacing that anytime soon, lol

gonna try disconnecting the batteries for like 20 mins to totally clear the computer

 

[scha0786]

clearing computer did not work. its gotta be the intake throttle housing.

 

[scha0786]

does driving around with the P1000 DTC code affect performance or mileage? so far it does not seem to affect anything

 

[southend]

does driving around with the P1000 DTC code affect performance or mileage? so far it does not seem to affect anything

No, you have to drive it or run it for that to go away. It comes up after you clear dtc's.

Sent from my SCH-I500

 

[scha0786]

yeah, it won't go away because of the other codes still present.

I have driven like 3000 miles and still have the P1000 and I am not clearing the DTC's every 100 miles

 

[southend]

yeah, it won't go away because of the other codes still present.

I have driven like 3000 miles and still have the P1000 and I am not clearing the DTC's every 100 miles

those other codes dont have anything to do with the p1000, it should go away. Your ficm may not be in sync. Dont know to much about it.

Sent from my SCH-I500

 

[scha0786]

hmmm, and the saga continues!

 

[Guest]

I have checked voltage at egrtp connector pin a an c voltage is 5.0voltz an above speck which is 4.5voltz can this cause a stalling problem

 

[scha0786]

So I ended up replacing the throttle body assembly last July and that fixed the problem.

No a couple months later these two codes are back, I'm thinking I have a faulty connector or wire somewhere.

can anyone help me with how to test for a faulty connector or wire for these two codes?

this doesn't affect drive ability but is just annoying.

 

[scha0786]

Cleared the dtcs and so far they have stayed off

 

[scha0786]

and now they are back and won't go away, this is really bugging me again. I hate having codes thrown.

 

[scha0786]

So doing a little research I have found that there is a 6 pin TPS (throttle position sensor) and a 3 pin TPS on the 04 model year trucks. This was used to drive the throttle plate closed when the EGR valve is opening up to help push the exhaust gas into the intake for reburn.

Now, I am not sure which sensor of the two on the diesel throttle body is throwing my P0488 and P0407 codes.

Now reading how to test the wiring on the 6 pin TPS, find the BN/WH wire and this is the reference voltage and GY/RD is ground, so hooking a volt meter should give you 5V, if you have nothing could mean faulty wiring.

If that checks out then hook into OG/LB and with the plate open, should be reading 0.5 to 0.9 V and as it closes should go to 5V.

The other 3 pin TPS is tested the identical way.

From my memory, the 6 pin is underneath the intake CAC tube and the 3 pin is is off the to side.

BN/WH (brown/ white)
GY/RD (gray/ red)
OG/LB (orange/ light blue

going to do some testing in the near future hear to ensure my wiring is in check.

Also the replacement part # for these are 9B989 (they ask if you want the 6pin or 3pin). Also BWD makes these two but they are all around $130 to buy a new sensor

Hope this is some aid to someone in the future and will keep updated on what i find on my truck, just need the time to test and fart around with.

FYI - these codes do not affect driving at all (at least for me) and have been present for almost a year

 

[scha0786]

Been battling this issue for over 3 years I just recently determined the root problem.

It was the throttle position sensor, got a new one from dealer.

the reason why it failed was because the upper CRAC tube rubber coupling was leaking oil residue onto the throttle position sensor. This seem to take place shortly after I installed the Riff Raff silicone boots. The OE boot has two groves built into that seal into groves on the intake elbow and the CRAC tube, the Riff Raff did not. THerefore over time oil residue was dripping onto the TPS and shorted it out, hence the codes. I put the new sensor in and installed the stock boot.

So far the codes are gone and all is good, guess time will tell with this one but found this to be very interesting.

Hope this helps someone in the future.

 

[IDPOTATO]

Scha0786 are you still active on this forum? Wondering where the TPS is located

 

[ZMANN]

not to be confused with the TPS for the pedal

and this is only on the early 6.0's

 

[IDPOTATO]

Is it on the erg valve. Or is it under the intake elbow. I have three open plugs by where my egr valve was

 

[Raggededge93]

Your head gaskets won't blow if you tune it. Lol they will if you put a ton of power to it and beat the **** out of it all the time but if you don't drive it like you stole it all the time and take care of her she will treat you good too.

Thank you!!! Someone understands haha I ran hot tunes on stock studs and gaskets and never had an issue its all about how you drive it, if you're smart about running your truck you will do just fine! But yes normally tuners will write out egrs to clear issues like that

 

[scha0786]

Yes I'm still alive everyone!!!! So I had these codes pop back up again. Guess what???? The tps sensor was soaked in oil again, I found a Forman tps sensor on rock auto for $45 in lieu of the $260 from Ford. So there is a seal inside the elbow and that is very slowly leaking oil into my tps (located directly underneath the intake elbow). I replaced and the codes are gone. Obviously my egr elbow is sacked out and needs to be replaced but it lasted a while so I'll keep putting new sensors in it until the truck is dead. Got 223k on it now. Cheers !!