Is there oil in the galley at all? Are you valve cover gaskets tight? Just throwing out some suggestions.

 

Yes, valve covers are tight. I paid my cousin to put the new high pressure oil lines on, and I just learned that he didn’t replace the one that is nearest to the back of the engine yet. He said there was an issue with a fitting on the new line being too small…? He said he didn’t notice it leaking and thought it would be fine until he could find time to put the new one on. Both other (original) lines leaked. One line ruptured somehow and the other had oil seeping from the fitting. I’m wondering if the high pressure oil line that he didn’t replace yet (nearest to the rear of the engine) is now leaking? With the oil leak being a consistent drip, it makes me think that it would almost have to be related to high pressure oil pump/or lines. There is oil in the valley. But, that is from my original high pressure oil lines leaking and the oil wasn’t cleaned out very well before my cousin changed the high pressure oil lines. I will have to clean the oil out of the valley and lay down clean paper towels in the valley and let the engine run to see if I can track down the leak (if it is in the valley).

 

If I had to guess and I am it would be the rear main seal. they never fix themselves and only get worse. Sometimes you can install them without pulling the motor. Most of the time not. Good luck.Here is a video I found.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TI1AfCmOpUI

 

I don't mean to say never,,, but this is the most misdiagnosed oil leak we have. Because there is a hole in the back of the valley that drains down behind the flywheel, I'd say the majority of "rear main" replacements are done in error by mechanics who don't know this engine...

80% of the leaks happen "up top" and end-up draining from the inspection cover. These are HPOP lines, Fuel leaks, Turbo Pedestal, HPOP, CCV, the list goes on, all showing themselves there.

Here's an interesting video, BUT I have to warn you about this guy,,,, he makes some Good Videos, that Does NOT make him infallible. He's got some really GOOFY theories (not about this though) So, don't take him as your Guru, as many do. Confirm his advice on anything else he says 😉

» Identifying & Fixing Leaks

powerstrokehelp.com

 

I literally JUST dropped the transmission last month and replaced the rear main seal and re-sealed the rear cover (above rear main seal). Can’t be the rear main or that rear cover

 

It could be the gaskets for the hpop oil rail plugs. There is plugs on each end of the head. The rear ones are fun to get to...but they have a gasket that can fail.

 

Ford makes a dye you put in the oil. Drive for a hundred miles and with a black light you can find the leak for sure.

 

Gentlemen I have had the same problem! [After removing the engine for a total overhaul] using the factory recommended RTV $23.00 bucks a tube, and yes did the total re-seal with the engine upside down. The block was sent out to be reworked vatted and cleaned.
The oil pan was not rusted or damaged in any way, in fact it was almost without blemish!
Now at this point slide forward to the edge of your seats. What I am about to tell you is crucial.
MY RE-ASSEMBLY
With the block upside down attached to my engine mount I cleaned the mating surfaces again. I know when it was vatted the cleaning solution [should have] removed all deposits, but I was taking on changes. I went over it again using a metal degreaser commonly used by aircraft mechanics during engine assembly. The mating surfaces on my oil pan received the same treatment. Ford Motocraft RTV Silicone Sealant was used.
This took place during the month of August in Texas 93 degrees was the ambient temperature with humidity of 18% at 1:03 pm. The application instructions was followed to the letter. I was in no rush, so the engine rested on the stand for a full month before I decided to complete assembly and place her back in service.
After placing her back in her cradle, giving her a proper infusion of Rotella and Motocraft coolant, she was ready.
2 hours and 23 minutes into her maiden run she was weeping oil from the rear GGGGggggrrrrrr!
My disgust was off the scale! She sat unattended for a full 6 months.
In time I was mentally stable enough to drive her up on my ramps for an underside inspection while it idled. The leak was from the rear driver side. It was bad. So I removed the tranny to assure I had not somehow screwed up the engine seal installation. It was bone dry! Matters not I replaced it with a dealer purchased seal kit anyway!
I noticed a small collection of oil accumulating between the rear of the engine and oil pan. The problem was at the corner nearest the last oil pan bolt.
I know they where all torqued to spec after assembly, and checked again after the long drying time on the stan. So the problem had not to do with a loose bolt. So what I did was used a USB micro camera to record the slow accumulation of oil over time. And sure enough it was without a doubt a surface contact leak between the pan and engine.
In my mind I asked myself how could this be given all things were finished out with such great detail! At any rate the reality of what was . . . was! So I drained the pan, drained the oil from the injector wells, and gave it a full week to drain until there were no more traces of slow weeping detectable over time as recorded with my camera.
I used the same degreaser with a hypodermic syringe to force the cleanser into and around the area were the leak was detected. I did this until the area was as sterile as I could possibly clean it! I left it alone until the next day.
Next day inspection was good. It was oil-free and and clean, I was satisfied.
NOW IF YOU CHOOSE to follow me at this point I must disclaim you are on your own. My next step was based on the fact that I know I am not going to have a reason to remove this oil pan no time soon (remember she has just enjoyed a total overhaul). I used JB Weld [not the quick bond] I used the original. My plan was to paste the whole area. starting from well ahead of where I knew it was dry, past the point of where the problem was. I did three thin coats each about 45 minutes apart. After 3 days I reinstalled the tranny, oiled her up and has had no problems since! I am now into my 3rd month with no problems. I have crawled under to inspect several times. There is not a single hint of moisture anywhere! I know better, and this is not a solution I would recommend on a customers engine.
But as you all know that have been down this road, it is a JOB and the constant problems in time will wear you out!
That's it gentlemen! That's what worked, and is still working for me. I hope it may be enough to save some poor soul the agony!