Pretty standard, just more oil. When you take the plugs out it does shoot out a little far.


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"PLUGS" ? How many plugs are there? Ive thought about changing the oil myself. Dealer wants $150!

Im guessing its just oil and a filter or does something else need replaced?

 

If you don't like to get messy get it done at a dealership. Otherwise go slow and get ready for some fun.

 

If you have a cat or a friend with one, a Tidy-Cat bucket is just about perfect for catching the oil. And it’s easy to pour out of too since it has corners. Loosen the filter first and let the cooler drain into the bucket. You’ll get a pretty good splash if the filter slips out of your hand into the bucket so try not to do that.... After the filter is off and the housing has drained wipe off the gasket seating surface ensuring the old gasket left with the filter. Then screw on the new filter with oiled gasket and tighten it pretty snug but don’t put a cheater on the filter wrench or anything like that.

Fish the old filter out of your bucket and turn it upside down to drain into anything that will hold a quart or so of oil. Then put the bucket under the pan and drain the crankcase. Reinstall the drain plug add 13qts of 10w30, 5w40, or 15w40 diesel oil and your good to go after checking for leaks.

If it’s 4x4 don’t forget to grease the front u-joints while your under there.

I might have gotten away without it, but I did pull the front tires up on a stack of 2 2x8’s so the bucket would easily slide in and out under the trailing arm.

 

Any disadvantages for taking a hammer and screw driver and punching a hole in the filter to drain it?

 

That is pretty much what I do. Not with a screw driver, but with an awl. I have a Fumoto valve on the oil pan drain so I run a tube from it to the bucket under the filter and let them both drain at the same time.

 

Not sure if it is all that different from the 2011-2016 but that said, diesel oil is super slippery and quite messy. Make sure you let the oil filter drain a bit before you pull it off or you'll be covered in oil. My method is:

1. get a 5 gallon bucket
2. get some cardboard
3. lay the cardboard down and put the 5 gallon bucket near the plug on the pan
4. slowly loosen plug and get ready, the oil coming out will be quick and does have some distance so be ready to move the bucket to catch it
5. after about 30 seconds the oil will come out pretty standard, just sit the bucket there
6. when it is done put the plug back in
7. loosen the oil filter a few turn until oil starts to bleed out
8. let it bleed for a few minutes over the bucket
9. unscrew it all the way, still messy but less than just trying to pull it off in one shot
10. put some clean oil on the filter gasket, fill the filter with a quart of oil and put it back on
11. hand tight then an oil wrench for about 1 turn
12. fill the oil
13. reset truck maintenance setting
14. clean up and done deal

Takes me about 30 minutes or so only because draining 13qts of oil takes a while. The actual procedure is quite easy and far more financially smart than going to a dealer

 

"There is also a locking clip if you want to prevent it from lifting as added insurance. I've never used it except on the Jeep."


I just put a zip tie around the valve, in stead of buying the clip, for a little insurance. Never had a problem to date!!

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I would add for the OP - use OEM filter.

 

Another newbie here. Talking about Motorcraft? Is it that much better than something like a Fram?

 

Yeah, good point @Sport45. At least to see it move. Just like pulling the fill plug on the transfer case before the drain plug. Ask me how I know. Lol.

 

+1 for Fumoto valves. We've been installing them for years on all sorts of vehicles, never once had an issue. It's the only way to go. I get the "N" version on ours (which provides the hose nipple for hooking a hose up to it). Hook up the hose, put the hose in your oil change pan, open the valve, drain your fuel water separator, go back in the house for a while and come back. Swap the filter and fill with oil. Doesn't get any easier (or cleaner). The only thing cleaner is our Euro vehicles with 100% topside oil changes (Mityvac oil pump outs & topside filter cartridge).

 

you must be referring to the little TDI engines. Does mityvacing the oil out work?

I also run a 99.5 MK4 1.9 ALH TDI and drain it out the old school way but have heard of guys using the mityvac.

 

When refilling, start with 12 quarts and check the dip stick. There is always some residual left behind. For me, 12 - 12 1/2 quarts usually hits the full mark perfectly.

 

Be certain to use the manufacturer's recommendation. You will find a CK-4 Spec is recommended in either 10W-30 or 5W-40 depending on ambiant temps in your region.
I personally prefer letting the oil to drain overnight for a complete job.

 

Just picked up a new 2019 F-250. I know I should read the maint section in the owner’s manual but I haven’t 😜
Is first oil change 5k or sooner?

 

Just picked up a new 2019 F-250. I know I should read the maint section in the owner’s manual but I haven’t 😜
Is first oil change 5k or sooner?

There is a oil monitor system in the truck. It's your call really. I would run it till the alert pops, then go on your own intervals. 5k is seemingly the norm but could be too often. 7,500 is no problem. Your driving habits will determine when the system pops the alert.



Maybe driving the next 15k with a initial change when the system pops the alert, then run 5k, then see when the alert pops a second time.

 

Besides the large oil capacity my main concern is all about the large oil filter. Loosen it & let it drain running down the filter. I like Evil Twin's suggestion to poke a hole in the bottom with an awl. If it is too thick & stubborn, you could drill a small hole with a cordless drill to drain it. When close to empty, wipe off the hot oil and remove it with a dry rag if it is still hot & use both hands. That thing is heavier than you expect with only oil in the filter material. This way you don't drop it into the pan or bucket of oil splashing everywhere. With these 2 qt. filters I fill the new one at least half full with oil so that you don't have a dry engine start up while the oil is pumping in. Never bothered with that on small gas engine filters but a 2 qt. delay is worth avoiding.

 

when your dumping the 55 gallon of oil into the engine, doesn't some get in the filter via gravity?

I have not looked at the oil flow chart in the coffee book yet.

lets get some input from some factory ford techs!!!! What ever happen to Mchan, that dude was wicked smart with the 6.0.

 

I installed a Fumoto drain valve on mine too after the first oil change left me with an oil slick the size of my truck when it came blasting out the back side of the oil pan. I still can't believe Ford didn't put the plug on the bottom of the oil pan. A large sheet of cardboard is always a great idea for any oil change.

 

I think I will go with the fumoto myself. The oil slicks are not the way to go, plus I won’t have to hang on to large pieces of cardboard. I have it down now but fumoto seems easy. Have them on all the fire engines I drive and they work great!


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Yes

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I quit doing my own oil once I got my 6.7, but I changed it many times on my 6.4. I'd get my oil in 5 gallon buckets and then use a long snout pitcher with quart and liter marks on the side, up to 6 quarts at a time. It was cheap, easy, and worked great, but I'm fine not doing it myself anymore.

 

I agree totally with luckyduck. Purilator also has a line of synthetic oil filters.

 

Thanks! Motorcraft it will be!

 

I did my first one at 2k to get all the fine shavings out. I then change again at 5k to get on my 5k interval for its life.

I had a black stone done at the 2k, there are some metals in the oil (nothing crazy just slightly elevated numbers here). I’ll try and post my blackstone here at some point.

 

Fram is total garbage. I have a Baldwin filter source there really good.
Don't forget around here (Washington State) all the garbage transfer stations take the used oil at no cost as do most of the parts stores.:usa:

 

If you use a Quick change oil service make sure they use the oil specs recommended by Ford. Don't let them use 10W30 gas engine oil in your diesel.

 

This post is a couple of years old now, none the less this should say dont use a quick change service.

 

Unless they have a "diesel engine" oil change service available

 

Agree to disagree.