Not sure if this helps

 

Not sure if this helps

I felt personally attacked with the "we dont film with cell phones in the driveway"

 

How much oil is on your dipstick if you pull it out to check? Sounds like you may be low on oil

 

Plenty of oil and fresh oil change. Thank you

 

My saying Thank you was not intended as a derogitory comment. This was my first post and I really appreciate any assistance, including check the dipstick.

 

No worries, I didnt take it as derogitory.
Have you had oppertunity to do any more diag with it?

A bit odd for the hpop reseal to cause an inibility for the lpop to supply oil/pressure up to the reservoir. I will look at some diagams and see if I can find a correlation point. also the fact that if you manually fill the reservoir the truck will start/run points towards a lpo supply issue. Did you do anything else oil system related when you did the hpop reseal?

 

No feelings were hurt.
We are still here with you

 

 

Put the scope in the HPOP reservoir, cranked the engine for 60 seconds, no oil coming in anywhere. Took the plug out if the oil cooler mount above the oil filter, cranked the motor for 30 seconds, a teaspoon of oil dribbled out. Thinking it is the LPOP. Will replace it and see. I don't know what else it could be...

 

 

did you try adding a bit of extra oil/jacking the rear of the truck up?

 

No, it was 2-3 qts. Over from priming HPOP. In the last couple months crank time, even warm, was longer than normal. It usually fires right up. It had 160,000 miles when purchased, thinking it's time to replace LPOP anyway. And I don't have an easy way to pull the engine to replace the pick up tube. Praying it's the LPOP.

 

9-16 - gerator gaps are .010. Replaced it because it was out. The driveway is on a slant, turned the truck around and attempted 4 starts at 45 seconds each. Still nothing... guessing it is the oil cooler housing, oil pressure regulator or the IPR. Any other thoughts

 

Turned the truck around to raise the rear of the truck above the front, like jacking it up.

 

Hpop reservoir still staying empty/not filling?

 

Itis still empty. Melling (LPOP manufacturers) directions say to dip the LPOP in oil, which I did. Some blogs say you must put assembly oil on it to get it to prime. Thoughts.

 

Correc, it's empty.

 

Yes, m
Very minimal were on cover, even had the original machining still visible.

 

I call BS on the guy in the vid -- would just as soon listen to Bill Hewett

Crank the engine over with the reservoir plug removed -- should have oil flowing out the plug in a few seconds
The reservoir fills via the stand pipe to the level dictated by the spill orifice -- this is how air is eliminated
The only path for oil to leave the reservoir is thru the HPOP under "normal" circumstance
The reservoir is pressurized when the HPOP is filled and is controlled by the relief in the oil cooler housing

A leaking front seal on the HPOP , wrong mounting gasket , or leaking lower reservoir gasket -- can cause the oil level to drop over time
The check ball in the block will not drain the reservoir -- there is a stand tube in the reservoir to keep that from happening -- oil cannot drain back thru the stand pipe
IF you pour oil into the reservoir , it should stay filled -- to the orifice and stand pipe level for a long time

Since you say that the engine will run for a time after oil is poured into the reservoir
that would mean there is no oil being supplied by the LPOP to fill the reservoir

The pressure regulator valve may your next step -- they can get stuck open, which would dump all pressure -- not a common failure tho
The bypass valve will not "lose pressure " it will only bypass the oil cooler -- still the oil will flow thru the engine

You can crank the engine over with the oil cooler removed to see if the LPOP is able to move any oil at all

Also did you use the correct HPOP mounting gasket ?

 

I call BS on the guy in the vid -- would just as soon listen to Bill Hewett

Crank the engine over with the reservoir plug removed -- should have oil flowing out the plug in a few seconds
The reservoir fills via the stand pipe to the level dictated by the spill orifice -- this is how air is eliminated
The only path for oil to leave the reservoir is thru the HPOP under "normal" circumstance
The reservoir is pressurized when the HPOP is filled and is controlled by the relief in the oil cooler housing

A leaking front seal on the HPOP , wrong mounting gasket , or leaking lower reservoir gasket -- can cause the oil level to drop over time
The check ball in the block will not drain the reservoir -- there is a stand tube in the reservoir to keep that from happening -- oil cannot drain back thru the stand pipe
IF you pour oil into the reservoir , it should stay filled -- to the orifice and stand pipe level for a long time

Since you say that the engine will run for a time after oil is poured into the reservoir
that would mean there is no oil being supplied by the LPOP to fill the reservoir

The pressure regulator valve may your next step -- they can get stuck open, which would dump all pressure -- not a common failure tho
The bypass valve will not "lose pressure " it will only bypass the oil cooler -- still the oil will flow thru the engine

You can crank the engine over with the oil cooler removed to see if the LPOP is able to move any oil at all

Also did you use the correct HPOP mounting gasket ?

Thank you for the feedback! I have watched a number of Bill Hewitt's videos and like him. He suggests using assembly lube on the LPOP replacement. I didn't do this because Melling says not to. I have cranked the motor with the reservoir plug out no oil coming in and no pressure (put thumb on it).
I used Ford gaskets during HPOP rebuild and it ran for 100-150 miles after. Going to remove reservoir and check gaskets. With reservoir out will crank motor looking for any oil. Thinking about taking the check ball out of the top driver side of block and filling it with oil to attempt priming the LPOP.
Question: There is a plug on the oil filter/cooler housing. If it is removed the LPOP should pump oil out, right? This assumes the oil path to the plug is before the oil pressure valve...
Will provide update after reservoir removal tests and inspection.

 

The comment about brother Bill was not a compliment to him either -- he has his share of faults
usually the guys on this forum will comment negatively
Bill does get some things right tho

Bill shows packing the pump with red grease in his vid about the oil pump -- assembly lube would be the better choice

Just leave the filter off -- crank by shorting across the starter solenoid on the fender -- key off

Cranking with the reservoir removed -- you can see the oil coming up the two ports on the front cover -- the larger port fills the reservoir -- the smaller port is lube for the cam gears
VID 1

There are a few good views of the oil ports in the reservoir and the guy does a decent job of explaining the oil paths -- but does get off the trail when talking about adding a pressure gauge -- The factory pressure sender is on the top cover of the reservoir -- you can drill another hole in the top cover , or use the existing plug

You can see the bulge of the stand pipe from the front outside of the reservoir easily -- Looking at this vid, you should see that the oil will not be able to drain back out thru the fill tube
VID 2

 

Believe I found the problem. Took off the HPOP reservoir and noticed a blue shop rag on the HPOP drive gear, wet with oil and chewed up. Bone head move, think I cleaned the reservoir and left the rag in it to keep dirt out. No idea how I didn't see it during re installation.
Drained the oil, chunks of blue rag came out, what seemed to be the rest of the rag. Filled pan with new oil. Then with HPOP reservoir off, cranked engine for 30 seconds. No oil flow. There are 2 oil feeds into the reservoir the rear one pushed a teaspoon of oil out 5 seconds after the cranking stopped, the bubbled. Cranked for another 30 seconds, no oil. Thinking I need to check the check ball inside the block (the cold start path) for rag material. Also will remove the oil cooler and look for blockage as I believe the LPOP pumps oil through it BEFORE it goes through the oil filter. Will also check oil pressure valve and oil filter bypass valve while it is out.
I tried to see the oil pick up tube screen through the drain plug orifice but it is so close the camera probe is not able to get inside the hole and turn to see it.
Any thoughts on this course of action or other areas I need to look at is appreciated.

 

Bet the screen is clogged solid with blue towel -- no oil can get thru to the pump

The oil pump is like 18 GPM @2000 RPM
you can see from the vid I posted the amount of oil that flows during cranking

 

Is there a way to get the towel off the scerre without pulling the engine? Maybe putting oil down the check ball in the oil channel on top od the engine,,, maybe wishful thinking.

 

You can pull the oil pan with the engine still in the truck if needed
I have a vid reference somewhere in my links

Use your camera to see if the pickup is plugged

 

The camera will not fit between the pan and sump there is only 1/2" between them. Picked up a wire brush from hardware store, bent it 90°, it fit. Brushed odd bottom of sump by feel and towel pieces came with it. Going to pour 1 gallon oil in, drain to see if more pieces drain. I've seen the videos that lift the cab, then motor to take pan out. Is this like the one you have?

 

Loose the engine mounts and jack the engine by the front pulley
there is just barely enough room to drop the pan
then remove the oil suction tube and remove the pan

 

Good to Know!! If the flush doesn't work it may be the only option.

 

Been unsuccessful in finding the vid
the guy done the work in the front yard on a piece of plywood
Loosed the front cab mounts and used a bottle jack on the front pulley to lift the engine -- until it hit the firewall
then loosed the pan -- reached in and removed the suction tube
pan was then removed

Seems like he had the truck up on 8x8 wood blocks under the tires to give room to get under

 

That is what I had to do a few years ago. Loosen motor mounts jacked engine until turbo touched pretty hard. Probably should have loosened the cab bolts would have helped out. It was still a pain though.

 

Thanks for the feedback!! The brush and flush didn't work. Tomorrow through the weekend I'll do the previous plan of removing LPOP,oil cooler and check ball on top of block to clear oil paths. With LPOP off, I'll try to backfeed oil or air to clean sump pickup screen. If it doesn't work pulling the pan is only option I can think of left.
I think I've seen the video you are talking about and will look for it.