FIRST check all you fuses. It sounds like you have a loose connection or a bad harness. I would check the FICM connection that is closest to the front of the engine, that feeds from you PCM. If its solid check the connection on you PCM (between your driver side battery and the inner fender) that feeds the FICM, it is the middle plug.

 

Harness you mentioned from FICM to PCM was unplugged. I guess I did that when moving stuff around somehow. Problem is my truck still won't start now.

 

The P2552 code didn't go away and truck will turn over but won't start. I have 49V at FICM. Any ideas?

 

It takes a lot of cranking after an oil cooler change to get it to start. You need a good charger or jump from another vehicle. Try not to drain your batteries.

 

The plugs under the FICM were not plugged in well. The shop I recently took it to didn't put the rear nuts back on the FICM which allows it to lift up which has probably cause the plugs to come out. I tried fighting them back in those things are a pain. I have to go to work now so I'll continue tomorrow. And thanks for the heads up on the batteries...I did kill me so I'll have to charge them up tomorrow.

 

I'm with frostyshadow- After replacing oil cooler it will take a some cranking to fill system with oil. KEEP THE BATTERIES UP! Low voltage will cause more amperes to flow in an attempt for the system to maintain normalcy. That will cause excessive temps in the electronics especially the FICM as it is taking 12v and trying to make 48v. If you are still getting code P2552, Triple check your connections. Do you have an EDGE or similar? If so unplug it and run codes from a different scanner. Is you HPOP building pressure while cranking?

 

I have the EDGE CTS2 insight. I don't know how to check hpop pressure. I'm guessing the edge monitors don't do that? Yeah I understand the higher amperes bringing heat I'm an electrician by trade so I'll def try starting it with a jump and charge the batteries well. If it won't start still, my next move is to check the IPR valve for debris. I bought an IPR valve socket on Amazon just now, probably a good tool to have in the truck box. Thanks for the help guys. This truck has been a pain ever since I bought it, I just want it to run.

 

I sent you a PM

 

FWIW...a tech at DPD told me something years ago and I do it after any major engine work. He said to pull the FICM relay(that's the big gray one in the top left corner of the box usually) and crank until you register low pressure oil which you can see on the dash when when your gauge reads normal. Then pop the FICM relay back in and fire her up. It won't necessarily solve any problems your having but it will let you know when everything's primed with oil and won't let it start before it's ready.

 

I got it to start it it is running like CRAP. I don't get it. I bought this thing 1 1/2 months ago, have dumped $2500 into and it still doesn't run right. I fix something and then get new codes.

Have these now

P0261
P0263
P2262
P2552

The first two must mean my injector in cylinder 1 is bad...but I literally just changed it. The turbo boost pressure not detected has me stumped. And the P2552 completely boggles me. I don't wanna have to take this thing to a dealer, but I'm getting close to that point.

 

Injector 1 wire harness connection was poor. So the P0261 and P0263 is no longer there but now I'm getting P0284 and P2552. Would P0284 mean injector in cylinder 8 is bad?

 

I'm thinking you still have a FICM connector that's not all the way in.

 

It sounds like your in defuel, disconnect your batteries for a bit reconnect and start. When work is performed on HP oil system some trucks run extremely poor until you get it on the road and open it up. It works out the air bubbles and helps get you through the "relearn process"

 

OK I found that during repairs I had broke off the nipple on the MAP Sensor. This whole time I was trying to start it without The hose installed for the MAP. I installed a new one and ran a new hose to the intake manifold port. I was hoping this would fix my problems...But now It won't start still.

Whats going on now is thankfully only one code: P2552 Throttle/Fuel inhibit circuit. NO CLUE WHAT THAT MEANS. I installed an EAS 0-100 PSI pressure sensor on my fuel test port so I can monitor fuel, and was wondering...Are you supposed to have app 45 psi immediately when you start? It starts at 2 psi and as I crank it builds slowly to 45-50...sometimes it'll start then die, others it won't start at all.

Earlier today I drove it from my house to my parents and it was running ok just had no power, no boost. I attribute this to the MAP hose missing, which has been fixed. But now my truck is broke down on my parents driveway. Will crank, won't start or will start...run rough...then die...like I said before. Any clues as to what I should check next?

 

Also if it is in a defuel state, how do you go about fixing that?

 

Disconnect batteries for a couple min and reconnect, and start. If that code pops up again, Quadruple check your FICM connections to and from PCM, you may have a pin stuck in your plug that is pulled out of the FICM

 

I got all the codes to go away. Truck won't start still. It is getting air in the fuel line somehow. Hard to build pressure when cranking...then when I can get it to start fuel PSI is 60. But it'll chug chug and die like it runs out of fuel. I removed the fuel filter cap and cranked it and there's a lot of bubbles coming from what looks like the banjo bolt on the right side. I just replaced that thing. I checked all the lines and they're snug. I gave up. I'm so sick of working on this thing. Sending it to a local diesel mechanic. Thanks for the help though guys.

 

I understand your frustration, so many 6.0 owners have gone through so many of the same issues. "Fix one thing and two more things pop up." And just when you finally get it working and are confident you fixed all the weak points the truck proves you wrong. It makes it difficult to remain loyal to Ford. I suppose its not all Fords fault for using what I will call, "the most unreliable diesel engine in Fords history." After all International built it. Sure they were under more stringent requirements to build more fuel efficient, less polluting engines. I say shame on International for giving this engine the "stamp of approval" and sending it out the door. Every truck owner is "proud of their truck" and it shows, because they buy the best parts and keep it in top shape. But where is the pride that Ford/International have in there product?

An engine mounted FICM that vibrates so much it breaks the solder welds at the capacitors?
A Engine wiring harness that becomes brittle in under 10 years and fails?
An EGR cooler that was so poorly designed that its inevitable failure will blow you head gaskets?
A Fuel injection system in a "work truck" that needs to be so clean that it will cause injector failure?
TTY Head bolts, and only 4 to a cylinder, on an engine that has an 18:1 compression ratio?
An oil cooler with such close clearances that it fails causing the EGR cooler to overheat and fail?

These are just a few of the most common problems every 6.0 owner has come across. And this was there "best design".
And I still paid $56,000 for the truck..............Bummer. Hindsight is I suppose 20/20
Good Luck Sixpackstillers and try to keep your cool, as I will most likely bet you'll run into another challenge or two in the future. Remember Your not the only one who is "sick of working on it". And I'll bet that when its running good nothing can beat it, and you'll forget if only for a moment all the problems it gave you.