Goes without saying, but you do have the brake shoes, caliper, & bracket off and out of the way, right? Just had to ask, because now days, you never know...

I would think once all that was out of the way, the rotor should slip right off with a few taps of a 3lb sledge. Got a pic of the rotor itself stuck on the hub?

As for taking the whole thing out, not sure about yours, but my '05 has a snap ring inside hub assembly that holds the stub axle in and then the 4 nuts on the back of the hub assembly. A 450 might be a different animal though.

-jokester

 

Yeah, brakes are off, snap ring off end of axle splines, four nuts off back of hub....ive put a full can of Kroil on all mating surfaces, knocked the studs in and sprayed behind them where the rotor would meet the hub face, sprayed inside the four hub studs, heated w a Mapp gas torch (dont have a oxy-acet torch). Thinking about a plasma cutter-torch all around just to the outside of the wheel stud diameter and get the rotor off maybe.

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Plasma cut all the way around here, just outside the bolt/stud circle

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Maybe it's something different on the 450's. Hopefully someone with experience on them will chime in. I'll summon my sounding board

@Hydro
@TooManyToys
@bismic

If you get a long pry bar and pry outward on the ujoint against the knuckle , you might be able to get some movement and get the whole thing out. It's gonna be HEAVY though, so watch your appendages...

-jokester

 

Same setup

 

you can exert a lot of pressure on the hub by placing a block between the housing and hub studs or rotor in different areas as you turn the steering

 

not sure what good cutting the rotor off would do? but plasma splatter would be all over

 

It sounds like you have a rotor rust locked on the hub pilot.

It's been a long time since I've had to screw around with a 450/550. I believe you should be able to get the largest bolt that will fit through the two bracket mount knuckle holes and a hut between the rotor and knuckle so you can use the bolts as a pusher to the rotor. A scrap flat bar can protect the rotor if you are trying to save it. Get it to move a little, back off, turn the rotor 1/3, and repeat. Then again. You keep going until it's free.

 

I will try the jacking bolt type of scenario. Not concerned w plasma splatter, can lay some welding cloth around sensitive schit. The plasma cut would get the rotor off and out of the way, letting me start working on removing the bearing hub

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If you get the rotor off, the rest is a lot easier with it gone.

-jokester

 

When you get it off, wire brush the crap out of the pilot area and put some anti-seize on there.

 

I am assuming you need to rotor off and the bearing and hub assembly out. You already damaged the rotor so getting brutal with is at this point is a go.

Here in NJ these are almost ALWAYS stuck in the knuckle. There are several ways of dealing with this.

The smart way that uses a tool and finesse - With the disassembly at the point shown, place this tool onto the one of the hub studs behind the knuckle - reconnect the tie rods and start the engine and bottom the tool out on the axle and use the power steering to push in the stud hopefully loosening the hub and pushing it out - switching from a front stud to a rear stud will be necessary. You will need assistance for this one. TOOL ---> 2-in-1 Dodge and Ford Hub Removal Tool - Cal-Van Tools I know he tool description says for F250-F350 trucks - the F450-F550 are exactly the SAME.

The second is to use a LONG prybar - 5 - 6 foot long. Leave the rotor secured to the hub and place the prybar behind the rotor and pry off of the knuckle - again switching from front to rear as it breaks free and begins to move.

The third is brute force. In a case like this a HAND sledge is like hitting it with your wife's purse. Again, leave the rotor secured to the hub, use a long handle sledgehammer and beat the hell out of the rotor - this requires the truck be on a hoist, in the air to allow the hammer to swing.

The one thing I caution against is using an air hammer with ANY choice of tip - the studs will mushroom and make the job exponentially more challenging.

 

It might be stuck as bad, but his images don't show Jersey rust.

 

You aint kidding! LOL! I'm sticking with the purse theory myself. (no insult intended BTW)

Much of my chassis work leaves piles of rust on the floor and the workbench. (F750 rear brakes as an example)

 

Same with changing rotors on any vehicle. Vanes caked.

Good point about the hub removal; I'm thinking rotor only. Jersey guys are known for big hammers. And I do mean hammers.

 

Well, did you win? 😁

-jokester

 

After beating the living f--k out of the rotor it came off. Now i have the hub loose after cutting the studs off w a cut off wheel but the stub axle wont come out. Its stuck in the bearing, ive tried whacking it w no success. I can pry the hub out maybe a 1/4" but thats it. The axle is locked in the bearing

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Man, I'm glad I don't live in the rust belt... Around here, we call that Oregon Loctite

Good luck! Hope it starts coming loose for ya soon.

-jokester

 

HOLEEY SCHIT! Finally got the sumbitch out. Good god...I figured on about a four hour job and its been almost 3 days of hell. Thanks for putting up w my rant and for the various tips

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This you? 😁