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haha, I admit that I troll over there just to read the comments... that is how I came to realize that we are...

... a joke.
And the "new" wave of mods are power hungry Dbags who think they are all powerful.
:rofl:
 
Lol. I saw that in the other thread.

"...power hungry who think they are all powerful..." Hmmm... That is either repetitive or redundant. I don't know which...

I saw what I think is a more accurate characterization at FTE once when I first started looking around about 6.0s. While they were debating how a bad FICM can cause coolant leaks to develop or some such nonsense, someone said - and I quote - "You should post this problem over on the ORG. Those guys know EVERYTHING."

Came right over.
 
Thedieselstop is a good spot as well. The culture there is a bit more stock-oriented, but it's a great group of guys.
 
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Back on topic... and assuming the OP hasn't left yet, I agree that the IPR system is the best available. It does have a high up-front cost, but you do not have to buy replacement filters, so you do recoup at least some of the investment over time.
@superchaos, The first couple times I cleaned my filter, along with blowing from the inside with compressed air, I used a metal scribe/pick to break loose the gunk in the pleats while under a running faucet. Subsequent cleanings have been easier and easier since the system is getting cleaner each time. Soaking in CLR is supposed to be pretty good at dissolving the crud, but I haven't actually tried it. I believe that letting it dry completely and using compressed air to blow from the inside would probably get a lot of it out too. Once the goo dries it doesn't hold together very well.
 
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Discussion starter · #25 ·
Haha yep y'all lost me, I'm headed to nation jk jk. I'll stick with the org. This forum is a way to informative to leave. But I agree with the marketing which is why ask asked. Didn't want to pay for the name, and to be honest I didn't even know the ipr existed as bad as that may sound. I'll defiantly check it out. On a side note is it really necessary to filter that much more coolant or will the average filter do just fine? I have no prob paying the 250 if it's really worth it.
 
Hard to say on value. Again, apples and oranges.

Regarding full flow... Filtering everything gets everything. That's good. With a stock OEM oil cooler setup, the full flow filter is after the oil cooler, if I understand correctly. ...so that's not as good as if it were before because the oil cooler could still be getting gummed up. As before, the full flow filters require religious maintenance. The coolant circuit cannot be blocked.

In contrast, a bypass is just hanging off to the side grabbing about 5%. So, it is getting considerably less debris at any time, but over time gets lots. If it clogs, it isn't helping but it isn't hurting, either. It doesn't prefilter the oil cooler any more or less than the full flow, so - in that regard - it's a wash.
 
Arguably a full filtration is a more thorough solution.

My by pass filter is usually pretty dirty, meaning there is some value to it.

I personally do not trust myself to maintain a full filtration which could result in bigger problems.
 
To expand on what dj said, the IPR setup can be plumbed a few different ways. I have mine tapped into the heater line feed and returning to the heater line return. As long as I'm not using heat in the cab, it is pretty much a full flow system since the inline valve has the flow stopped to the heater core itself. This setup does not affect the coolant running through the oil and EGR coolers. So, in this situation the religious maintenance is not as critical, but still needs to be done.

Mines like this, right now.
Image


The other option is full flow as well, but would restrict cab heat if the filter became clogged, requiring filter maintenance, but still not restricting oil and EGR cooler flow.

Image


If you opt for the manifold that pulls directly from the oil cooler coolant outlet, filters and returns to the EGR cooler, then religious maintenance is a must. As long as you monitor your deltas, you'll know when/if the filter needs cleaning.

This is with the manifold.
Image


Edit to add: I have the manifold (thanks Merc82) and plan to install it at some point, just haven't had the time lately. It will be a little bit bigger job for me since I'll need to re-plumb back to the the factory coolant routing where I have spliced in the current hoses.
 
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Discussion starter · #30 ·
Sorry for a late reply. When y'all talk about religious maintence on the IPR, how frequently would y'all say filter needs to be changed? Just a ballpark if you had to guess
 
The filter is washable. My filter has been in the truck for three years. How often does it need to be cleaned depends on the health of your coolant system. After a thorough flush I only clean mine while I'm changing oil just as preventative maintenance (its really not bad after 5k miles)......In the beginning, it may need to be cleaned more often. However, its a really simple process.
 
^^What he said. It really depends on how much crap is in your system. The beauty of it is you're getting that crap out quicker with the IPR setup. It may require more filter maintenance up front, but you end up with a cleaner system sooner. I'd probably check it after the first 500-1000 miles to see what it looks like and go from there. Remember, the filter itself is reusable, just clean and replace.
 
Manifold Install

To expand on what dj said, the IPR setup can be plumbed a few different ways. I have mine tapped into the heater line feed and returning to the heater line return. As long as I'm not using heat in the cab, it is pretty much a full flow system since the inline valve has the flow stopped to the heater core itself. This setup does not affect the coolant running through the oil and EGR coolers. So, in this situation the religious maintenance is not as critical, but still needs to be done.

Mines like this, right now.
Image


The other option is full flow as well, but would restrict cab heat if the filter became clogged, requiring filter maintenance, but still not restricting oil and EGR cooler flow.

Image


If you opt for the manifold that pulls directly from the oil cooler coolant outlet, filters and returns to the EGR cooler, then religious maintenance is a must. As long as you monitor your deltas, you'll know when/if the filter needs cleaning.

This is with the manifold.
Image


Edit to add: I have the manifold (thanks Merc82) and plan to install it at some point, just haven't had the time lately. It will be a little bit bigger job for me since I'll need to re-plumb back to the the factory coolant routing where I have spliced in the current hoses.

G8orFord I did install the manifold and I can say this about it: drink at least one beer before you start. The back side bolt is so damn tight to get the torx bit tightened up. I lost a tip to the intake manifold getting mine mounted. It's a tiny turn at a time but it's a good flowing setup.
Yes it's after the oil cooler but it's the last time the debris will ever go through it.
Plus it's a high flow spot so the coolant is really moving through that manifold. I myself have not seen my filter plug to the point where my oil cooler temps have climbed much at all. There is a lot of filter flowing and lots of pleats in it to plug up for that to slow down coolant flow.
One thing I did do to mine was I threw the orange anti-siphon rubber seal in the trash. I installed a simple rubber o-ring and that opened up the flow of it to 100% all of the time. The rubber that comes with it has a curve to it that reduces the flow, and it does reduce the flow....

My oil cooler ran 2-3* cooler once I installed the o-ring. The filter is a good one I had the Sinister bypass filter and it hardly filtered anything.
The bypass that it connects to is a very slow moving line, not comparable to what's coming out of the oil cooler.

One more plus with the manifold is it makes it fun almost to reverse flush the oil cooler. I myself did a cooling system flush as soon as I installed mine and the manifold made it so much easier.

I am a huge fan of the IPR filter setup it's so far ahead of any bypass setup that it's a mute point to compare the two.
If you can swing the cost it's the absolute best filtering system available today. It will clean that cooling system all the way, I hardly see anything in it these days.
 
I got rid of the orange seal too... well, it's still there, it just looks like an o-ring now.
 
Orange anti-siphon seal

I got rid of the orange seal too... well, it's still there, it just looks like an o-ring now.
You know I talked with the guy who made the IPR filter and I told him the orange rubber was blocking flow and oil temps climbing 2-3*.
He argued with me about it, But as soon as I installed a buna o-ring i was back to same temps before installing it.

ZMANN does not like the guy one bit and it's because of the guys personality. He won't buy anything from him because he's a jerk lol

But I can say jerk maybe.....good coolant filter absolutely !!!!!!!
 
full flow is the way to go to prevent oil cooler blockage
just monitor your eot/ect temps to note any rise in eot and check the filter

I run the IPR filter right before the coolant feeds my BPD remote oil cooler that is as good as it gets
unless you eliminate the coolant to oil cooler and go a BPD air to oil and not have to worry about blockage
 
So when I’m looking at the site there’s the optional manifold cooler with the coolant filter. What’s this all about is it beneficial at all.
The manifold goes on the oil cooler, the coolant runs out of that manifold to the cooler and back into that manifold. If you're using a stock oil cooler, in the stock location, then you want the manifold.

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The manifold goes on the oil cooler, the coolant runs out of that manifold to the cooler and back into that manifold. If you're using a stock oil cooler, in the stock location, then you want the manifold.

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Hell yeah, thanks guys. I’m new to the 6.0 world. Just trying to keep ol girl running for as long as possible so I’ll be on here a ton asking questions looking dumb most likely.
 
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