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Losing coolant - oil is contaminated

7.3K views 6 replies 5 participants last post by  Michael1962  
#1 ·
Hello everyone,


I've read many forum threads but this is my first time posting. I apologize in advance for the long post. I have performed all of the tests recommended and for the most part my truck seems to pass every test I can think to do. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

I have a 2005 6.0 with 118,000 miles on it, I bought it used with 106,000 miles and as part of an aggressive preventive maintenance plan decided to have the following modifications done: Sinister EGR delete, new oil cooler, Fire Ring head gaskets, ARP studs, blue spring update, Sinister coolant filter, STC fitting, and new degas bottle cap.

I’ve been running Rotella T6, putting 8oz of Rev-x oil additive in at every oil change, and treat the fuel at every fill up with Stanadyne or Rev-x fuel additive / cetane booster, and have been using regular universal 50/50 premix antifreeze.

The truck has been running great, no rough start/idle, real smooth, started up great all winter (had temps 20° below and never had to plug in the block heater) – it seemed everything was perfect for a while and then sometime between my last oil change (June 21st) and when I had it inspected (July 20th) I lost 1 gallon of coolant- the degas bottle was empty and it took a gallon of coolant to fill it back to the cold fill line indicated by the sticker on the front of the bottle. There are no visible signs of any leaks and the degas bottle top cover is clean / no coolant spitting out of cap.

I had an oil analysis done and have confirmation that my oil is contaminated with antifreeze. I checked the coolant in the degas bottle and it is clean (no oil mixing in with my coolant). I’ve tried the following to diagnose.

**My EOT and ECT are consistently within 3-8 degrees of each other and I have yet to see either of them get over 205° (I made sure to check this with 20 minutes of freeway / 65mph driving in high 80° / low 90° weather). The temps I am getting are from stock sensors and the Gauge function in my SCT tuner (no tunes installed, just using it to get rid of the check engine light from the EGR delete)

**I created my own hero kit and tee’d into the coolant line on the top of the degas bottle and driving WOT up the biggest hills I can find my coolant pressure does not get over 10 psi (normal driving is usually around 5-7)

** I checked the pressure on the cap and it holds 15/16 psi like it should.

** I pressure checked the cooling system to the max rated for the cap (16psi) and after a half an hour the needle didn’t budge. I ran this test a few times as well: cold and not running, again after I started - but engine was still cold, and again after I drove it around and got the temps up past 192° and the cooling system seems to be holding pressure – no pressure drops or spikes.

** I got a block checker from Napa and I get mixed results with it (twice the fluid changed green, and twice it stayed blue)????

Again the truck runs great, I do not have any white smoke coming out the tail pipe when I start or while driving. Almost every thread I can find is about oil mixing in with the coolant but there seems to be little information on coolant only getting into the oil. It has been one month since I first discovered the problem and I have had to put another Âľ of a gallon in it to fill the degas bottle back up so I am losing about 1 gallon of coolant a month.

Aside from the block check fluid turning green 2 of the 4 times I tried it everything else seems to check out ok.

When all of the work was originally done the heads were sent out to a machine shop, checked for flatness and magnafluxed ( I don't believe they pressure tested them though ) and I took it to a reputable diesel shop in my area. They can’t seem to figure out what would cause the coolant to mix with oil but not the other way around.

Between the purchase of the truck and the repairs- I spent just about every dime I had and cant really afford to take it back to the shop, have them tear it apart and find out that something else is the cause of the coolant leak.

I downloaded the 6.0 Bible and read through it all and I'm thinking its got to be a cracked head / block, or something with the intake manifold or the front cover. I'm not really comfortable with doing any repairs on my own so I really need to keep the labor charges as low as possible.

Has anyone else had any similar issues or have any other suggestions on what to I can check to diagnose the problem?
 
#2 ·
Eww that does not sound good the shop doesnt warranty any of the work? I'm afraid it sounds like a cracked head but that is just my .02 the only way to really know is dig into it, start at the cheapest possible problem and go from there.
 
#3 ·
They said they cover for a year and I brought it to their attention around 11 months (verbally given warranty, would feel a lot better if it was printed on my invoice though)... 1 of the 4 times I did the block check was at their shop and the fluid didn't change color (go figure) It seems to not change when I've been driving for a while so must only do it while the engine is relatively cool?? I was told to keep an eye on it and they would extend warranty for a couple months since I brought to their attention before it expired. And so I got the oil analysis done which confirmed the contamination. Contacted them after and sent the results of the OA and not getting any reply back now so starting to get concerned.

They seem baffled by the fact that there is coolant in my oil but no oil in my coolant because the oil runs at higher pressure so figured I would check and see if anyone here has had the same problem before and might me able to give me a good place to start digging.
 
#5 ·
Hate to say it but its going to be one of 2 things... And both require quite a bit of labor. The ideal situation would be a bad oil cooler, this wouldn't be the first time... You would still expect to see contamination both ways though. The other is a cracked head or block... I would lean more toward head because you didn't say anything about them having the heads sent off to be checked.

It is also possible the studs were over torqued causing something to crack. This is more common in 6.4's than 6.0's though. In any case the motor is coming apart... And there is a good chance that whatever the problem is the shop that did your work caused it.
 
#7 ·
I had the same issue and it happened when I changed the oil cooler, one of the orings wasn't sitting correctly in the oil cooler and let a tiny bit of coolant into the oil... had to take it apart again and found the issue and after putting it back together ran a couple of oil changes with and interval of running the engine about five minutes and dumped it and refilled and run again until the oil looked normal and every time I changed the oil I didn't fill it up all the way to save a few bucks just put about 12 quarts